Wine Reviews from Wine News
Tasters' Choice Selections
95 Nicolas Joly, 2003 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant
Savennières-Coulée de Serrant, France
Tea hue with an orange tint. Intense aromas of stewed apple, orange, buttered rum, hazelnut and candle wax. Lusciously approachable flavors of ripe apricot, butter and tea are settled down a bit by citrus peel notes. Long, warm finish. $79 / 500 imported cases
94 Antinori, 2001 Tignanello
Toscana IGT, Italy
Deep garnet hue. An enticing bouquet of pungent clove followed by ripe cherry, baker's chocolate and leather notes. This Tuscan touchstone is alive with youthful tannins; however, the black fruit is obvious and takes on an earthiness that is joined by tobacco and tea in the expressive close. $70 / 9,000 cases
94 Eponymous, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Purple-black hue. Slow-to-open aromas of mineral, clove, plum and black cherry. Well extracted and intense with a fistful of blueberry and plum flavors. Excellent structure and balance with polished tannins and a redwood zing in the finish. $50 / 600 cases
Best Value Selections
93 Faiveley, 2003 Georges Faiveley Rouge
Bourgogne Rouge, France
Bright garnet hue. Warm, peppery aromas of black cherry and forest floor scream Burgundy. Sweet, layered flavors of cherry, strawberry, mocha and nicely seasoned oak. Tight, youthful close. $17 / 3,500 imported cases
92 Josmeyer, 2004 Le Kottabe Riesling
Vin d'Alsace, France
White gold hue. Beautifully integrated aromas of ripe lemon, petrol and minerals. Balanced flavors of citrus peel and minerals show a lovely austerity. A satisfying, thirst-quenching finish. $14 / 10,000 cases
91 Montes, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Limited Selection, Leyda Vineyard, Leyda, Chile
Gold hue with a green tint. Classic aromas of cat box, grapefruit and tomato leaf. Ripe flavors of pineapple and lemon with a dose of youthful acidity adding to the already well-structured wine. Textbook SB with plenty of zip and charm in the close. $16 / 8,000 cases
Publisher's Pick
97 Altamura, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Stunning color; deep purple to the rim. An exotic bouquet of plum, blueberry and cassis. This opulent, full-throttle wine delivers layer after layer of juicy black fruit and mineral flavors that refuse to wane. A classic 2002 Napa Cab. $65 / 3,800 cases
California
Chardonnay
88 Arrowood, 2004 Chardonnay
Sonoma County
Candied scents of pear, citrus, honey and integrated oak. Full-blown, well-meshed flavors of mango, cinnamon and cream. Lingering vanilla notes. $29
92 Baileyana, 2004 Chardonnay
Grand Firepeak Cuvée, Edna Valley
Attractive aromas of pineapple, lemon drop and caramel with a wet stone note. Nice mix of tropical fruit flavors and underlying minerality. The finish offers peach and nectarine fruit while showing a cleansing, youthful acidity. $30
92 Bernardus, 2002 Chardonnay
Cypress Vineyard, Monterey County
Ripe aromas of pineapple and shredded coconut with a whiff of hazelnut. Butterscotch and baked apple flavors with a nervy edge of acidity. Honeyed fruit and brown spices in the close. $50
88 Bernardus, 2002 Chardonnay
Rosella's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands
Fresh aromas of sliced pineapple and clove. Supple flavors of banana, pineapple, honey and minerals. Dry finish with toasted oak and apple notes. $40
90 Calera, 2003 Chardonnay
Central Coast
A mixed bouquet of pineapple, cedar, wax and cumin. Tangerine and pineapple flavors are followed by a mineral nuance that adds complexity as well as structure. Dry close; however, plenty of tropical fruit in tow. $14
92 Dutton Estate, 2004 Chardonnay
Dutton Palms Vineyard, Russian River Valley
Forward aromas of lemon drop and vanilla. Supple flavors of butterscotch, banana, toasted oak and grilled pineapple. Dry, lengthy finish shows a balanced trifecta of oak, fruit and minerals. $45
90 Dutton Goldfield, 2004 Chardonnay
Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley
Subtle aromas of pineapple, white peach and clove with an herbal essence. Balanced, buttery flavors of peach nectar, pineapple and oak. Long, exotic close. $35
88 Fess Parker, 2004 Chardonnay
Ashley's Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills
Floral aromas of banana peel, pineapple and mixed grains. Ripe, spicy flavors of pineapple, butterscotch and sweet oak. Stone fruit in the finish. $28
90 J. Lohr, 2003 Chardonnay
Arroyo Vista Vineyard, Arroyo Seco
Ripe aromas of honey, banana peel, mixed grains and toasted oak. Silky, viscous flavors of pineapple, brown spice and fresh oak. Taffy apple-like sweetness in the close. $25
88 Kendall-Jackson, 2004 Chardonnay
Grand Reserve, Monterey/Santa Barbara
Big aromas of pineapple, lime peel, butter and clove. Sweetly balanced flavors of ripe citrus, peach and beeswax. Sweetness builds in the finish. $20
88 Landmark, 2004 Overlook Chardonnay
Sonoma/Monterey/Santa Barbara Counties
Honeyed aromas of pineapple, mango, white flowers and oak. Creamy flavors of pear and pineapple juice are leaner than suggested by the nose. Tangy close. $26
89 MacRostie, 2004 Chardonnay
Carneros
Tropical scents of pineapple, peach, cream and vanilla. Rich flavors of orange marmalade, honey, oak and clove. Long, clean finish. $22
88 Sebastiani, 2004 Chardonnay
Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley
Fresh scents of lime peel and sliced apple. Upfront flavors of banana, honey and vanillin oak. Crisp finish with a lingering toastiness. $25
Cabernet & Blends
88 Amici, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Distinct baker's chocolate scents with cranberry and charred oak notes. Black cherry flavors have a defined creaminess. Tannins appear in the close. $42
92 Arrowood, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Unfined-Unfiltered, Sonoma County
Sweet scents of maple, coconut, pecan and new oak. Tasty cherry flavors with redwood, pencil and brown spice notes. This is a vibrant wine with the perfect amount of toasted oak in the finish. $42
93 Barlow, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Unfiltered, Napa Valley
An uplifting bouquet of rose water, plum and vanilla. Rich, round and satisfying blackberry jam flavors. Youthful tannins are well integrated, while the opulent fruit picks up a mineral nuance in the lengthy close. $40
87 Blackstone, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
California
Mixed aromas of cherry, redwood, coffee and a hint of maple. Supple cherry and raspberry flavors. Lasting fruit impressions in the finish. $12
88 Cole Bailey, 2003 Sesquipedalian Cabernet
Mendocino
Uplifting aromas of cherry, vanilla, clove and a whiff of resin. Bright red fruit flavors with a trailing mineral nuance. Crisp, nervy close. $30
92 Coniglio, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Atlas Peak, Napa Valley
Spicy, well-oaked bouquet has an exotic peppermint note. Layers of supple black cherry, plum and licorice flavors with tempered tannins. A fruit-lover's finish. $45
91 Crichton Hall, 2002 Reflexion
Napa Valley
Complex aromas of blackberry, maple, dust, tobacco, cedar and pine resin. Supple, earthy flavors of blackberry, fudge, oak and bittersweet chocolate. Port-like close. $75
91 Dashe Cellars, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Alexander Valley
Mint, black earth and glove leather aromas. Youthful, tooth-sticking tannins; however, loaded with plum, black cherry and licorice flavors. A peppery nuance spikes the finish. $38
90 Dominus Estate, 2002 Napanook
Napa Valley
Heady scents of blueberry, pencil shavings, mint and gravel. Concentrated but not overdone flavors of blackberry, coffee, minerals and vanilla. Bittersweet chocolate highlights the close. $40
91 Frog's Leap, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Heady menthol aromas followed by cherry and charred oak nuances. Round and approachable with well-meshed tannins and acids. Plenty of blueberry, plum and cedar flavors continue into the close. $39
91 Frog's Leap, 2002 Rutherford
Napa Valley
Light bell pepper pungency blows off to reveal aromas of blackberry, raisin, dust and chocolate. Very forward, sweet flavors of blueberry, plum, pencil and minerals. Crisp, woodsy finish. $65
90 Geyser Peak, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Alexander Valley
A lush bouquet of coconut and cherry followed by fresh oak notes. Blueberry and plum flavors laced with fresh acidity and tempered tannins that meld nicely into the close. $18
87 Hanna, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Proprietor Grown, Sonoma County
Plum and toasted oak aromas. Ripe cherry, pencil and new oak flavors. Crisp acids, wood tannins and a mineral nuance in the finish. $30
88 J. Lohr, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Seven Oaks, Paso Robles
Fresh blueberry, cherry and vanilla aromas. Supple and juicy black cherry and plum flavors. Fine tannins surface in the close. $15
90 Kendall-Jackson, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Grand Reserve, Sonoma-Napa Counties
Fresh raspberry, vanilla and oak aromas. Plenty of heft, offering cherry, blueberry and plum flavors. Ripe and accessible with a fruit-driven finish. $26
93 Ladera, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Lone Canyon Vineyard, Napa Valley
Flinty graphite scents with secondary black fruit notes. Substantial cherry and fresh oak flavors have a youthful tartness. A well-made, tightly knit wine that needs time to come forward. $65
90 Lolonis, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Winegrower Selection, Redwood Valley
Fresh plum, black cherry, cream soda and wet stone scents. Supple plum and blueberry flavors with drying, youthful tannins. Sweet finish loaded with black fruit, oak and mineral notes. $32
86 Merriam Vineyards, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Dry Creek Valley
Shy cherry and raspberry aromas with a note of pencil. Light plum and cherry flavors. A tart, tightly wound close; needs time. $35
86 Merryvale, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Starmont, Napa Valley
Forward aromas of black cherry, mocha and citrus peel. Soft, friendly black cherry and vanilla flavors. Dry, rather oaky finish. $25
89 M. Cosentino, 2002 CE2V
Napa Valley
Woody aromas of plum, mint and bell pepper. Minerally, concentrated flavors of coffee, cedar and earth compel the fruit to the background. Youthful, food-friendly close. $100
89 MichaeloDavid Wines, 2003 Earthquake Cab
Lodi
An attractive bouquet of vanilla, violets and menthol. Upfront cherry notes, though a tasty vanilla-mocha flavor combination captures the palate. Tannins kick in by way of the finish. $28
92 Mount Veeder, 2002 Reserve Meritage
Napa Valley
Big, smoky aromas of blackberry, cured meat, wood spice and tea. Creamy flavors of blueberry, citrus, black pepper and semisweet chocolate are thick and gripping. Long close features sweetened coffee. $80
87 Raymond, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Napa Valley
Light oak aromas with cherry and clove accents. Sweet and minty with the black fruit and oak vying for attention. Dry, tannic finish. $35
86 Robert Hall, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Paso Robles
Forward aromas of clove, orange peel and a hint of mocha. Soft chocolate and cherry flavors with a lick of oak. Crisp close. $18
88 Robert Mondavi Winery, 2003 Cabernet
Napa Valley
Minty aromas couple with charred oak, cherry and charcoal notes. Tart cherry flavors with obvious wood tannins and a light mineral presence. Youthful, well-oaked finish needs time to soften. $25
86 Rutherford Vintners, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Cherry and vanilla aromas with a suggestion of rosemary. Ripe cherry flavors. Cherry, oak and pencil in the close. $16
88 Sebastiani, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Alexander Valley
Sweet aromas of maple, pecan and brown spices. Mocha and cherry flavors laced with oak. Sweet, liqueur-like finish. $30
86 Signorello, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Unfiltered, Napa Valley
A mix of mocha, oak, leather and cedar box aromas. Cherry-chocolate flavors give way to a powerful oak presence that languishes in the close. $48
88 Silverado, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Sweet menthol, stewed plum and black cherry aromas. Spicy black cherry flavors with tea, tobacco and pencil notes. Peppery finish shows crisp acidity and a trailing clove nuance. $40
88 Stuhlmuller, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Alexander Valley
Spicy bouquet of clove, evergreen, pencil and mocha. Expressive cherry flavors with crisp, cleansing acidity and youthful tannins. Dry finish. $35
87 Waterstone, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Shy aromas of oak and mocha. Soft cherry-chocolate flavors with a note of malt. Cherry, vanilla and pencil highlight the close. $24
88 Whitehall Lane, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Earthy bouquet of strawberry and cedar box. Upfront cherry flavors have chocolate and mineral accents. Youthful finish with wood tannins. $40
85 Amethyst, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
$35
85 Chumeia, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
California
$13
85 Clos LaChance, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Hummingbird Series, Central Coast
$17
85 Greg Norman, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
California Estates, North Coast
$15
85 Napa Ridge, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
$12
85 Rutherford Hill, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
$35
Pinot Noir
92 Calera, 2002 Pinot Noir
Reed Vineyard, Mt. Harlan
Campfire aromas with cinnamon, white pepper and leather notes. Cherry and mocha flavors with a roasted nuance working its way throughout. A fresh lick of cherry and clove in the finish. $40
93 Calera, 2003 Pinot Noir
Central Coast
Obvious aromas of coffee, tomato leaf, clove and pencil. Generous and full with spicy strawberry, licorice and cedar flavors. Lasting fruit impressions meld nicely with the new oak in the finish. $22
92 Calera, 2003 Pinot Noir
Ryan Vineyard, Mt. Harlan
Earthy scents followed by cola, nutmeg, brown sugar and clove. Soft and creamy with a mix of mocha, earth and citrus flavors laced with fine-grain tannins. The close sweetens up while emitting cherry and charred oak notes. $40
90 Dutton Estate, 2004 Pinot Noir
Dutton Ranch, Russian River Vly, Edna Vly
Forward aromas of red fruit, leather, tomato leaf and menthol. Delicate cherry flavors have a pungent edge to them. Creamy finish. $45
92 Gary Farrell, 2003 Pinot Noir
Allen Vynd, Hillside Block, Russian River Vly
Light oak, clove and cherry aromas. Loaded with lively black cherry flavors, crisp acidity and youthful, rough-hewn tannins. This is a fruit-driven Pinot that needs time. $60
90 Gary Farrell, 2003 Pinot Noir
Rochioli-Allen Vnyd, Russian River Vly
A bouquet of tea, leather and clove. Tightly wound and crisp with cherry and vanilla flavors and an earthy note. Fresh oak, cherry and strawberry punctuate the finish. $65
Zinfandel
87 Ballentine Vineyards, 2004 Zinfandel
Old Vines, Block 11, Napa Valley
Warm aromas of blueberry and smoke show plenty of vibrancy. Chalky flavors of raspberry, mocha and sweetened coffee. Loads of fruit in the finish. $25
91 Blackstone, 2002 Zinfandel
Reserve, Dry Creek Valley
Big, sweet scents of blackberry, chocolate and molasses. Ample acidity; thick flavors of cherry, chocolate, orange peel and graphite. Wood shows itself in the close. $28
88 Blackstone, 2003 Zinfandel
Sonoma County
Lean aromas of gravel and oak with fruit undertones. Tangy flavors of strawberry and citrus are more forward than the nose suggests. Tingly finish. $18
87 Gary Farrell, 2003 Zinfandel
Brandord Mountain Vnyd, Dry Creek Vly
The warmth of alcohol announces aromas of plum and smoke. Juicy flavors of just-picked strawberry and semisweet chocolate. Sweet-tart close. $36
88 Gary Farrell, 2003 Zinfandel
Maple Vnyd, Tina's Block, Dry Creek Vly
Reserved scents of fig, cherry, tobacco and mocha. Crisply sweet flavors of strawberry and bittersweet chocolate. Fruit-strewn finish. $36
90 Lake Sonoma Winery, 2003 Zinfandel
Dry Creek Valley
Deep, earthy aromas of mixed berries, chocolate and oak char. Balanced flavors of blackberry, orange and minerals. Fruit and mocha notes in the close. $18
Oregon
Chardonnay
87 Chehalem, 2002 Chardonnay
Ian's Reserve, Willamette Valley
Forward scents of pineapple and orange peel. Somewhat sweet with flavors of brown spice and grilled pineapple. Lasting finish. $28
86 Chehalem, 2004 Inox Chardonnay
Willamette Valley
Light vanilla and lemon drop aromas. Soft and friendly with ripe apple and citrus flavors. Pineapple and banana cap the close. $17
Washington
Chardonnay
91 Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2004 Ethos Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
Forward aromas of honey, nutmeg and new oak. A nicely balanced wine with opulence as well as structure emitting fresh apple and grilled pineapple flavors. A smoky, toasted-oak finish. $30
90 Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2004 Chardonnay
Cold Creek Vineyard
Buttery, toasted-oak aromas with a flush of tropical fruit notes. Silky texture with ripe pineapple and oak flavors. Clean close has a lingering minerality. $22
86 Columbia Crest, 2003 Chardonnay
Grand Estates, Columbia Valley
Reserved aromas of apple and pear with hints of minerals. Juicy flavors of white peach and pear. Well-integrated oak in the close. $11
84 Columbia Winery, 2003 Chardonnay
Wyckoff Vineyard, Yakima Valley
$19
Reds
87 Columbia Crest, 2003 Merlot
Grand Estates, Columbia Valley
Enticing scents of wild cherry and chocolate. Ripe raspberry flavors with a touch of baker's chocolate. Full, refined tannins in the lingering close. $11
90 Columbia Crest, 2002 Shiraz
Grand Estates, Columbia Valley
Exotic nose of plum, allspice and apricot. Creamy flavors of black cherry and chocolate. Velvety tannins and renewed impressions of apricot and allspice in the layered close. $11
France
Alsace
90 Josmeyer, 2001 Hengst Pinot Gris
Alsace Grand Cru
Layers of pungent buttered apple, petrol and mineral aromas. Surprisingly sweet flavors of ripe apple, mango and honey. Continued sweetness in the finish. $73
88 Josmeyer, 2004 Mise du Printemps Pinot Blanc
Vin d'Alsace
Reserved scents of green apple and slate. Lively, clean flavors of apple and minerals. A touch of sweetness brightens the close. $21
91 Josmeyer, 2004 Le Dragon Riesling
Vin d'Alsace
Floral, fragrant aromas of just-sliced apple and minerals with a petrol note. A bit of sweetness lifts flavors of tangerine and pear. Dryness emerges in the finish. $38
92 Josmeyer, 2004 Les Folastries Gewürztraminer
Vin d'Alsace
Heavily perfumed aromas of lychee, mango, bacon fat and green tea. Ripe flavors of tropical fruit, banana peel and peach pit. Tobacco notes in the gentle finish. $31
White Burgundy
87 Faiveley, 2004 Chablis
Chablis
Fruity scents of pear, apple and honey. Very tart flavors of green apple and minerals. Continued apple notes in the finish. $24
88 Faiveley, 2003 Georges Faiveley Blanc
Bourgogne Blanc
Spicy aromas of stone fruit, oak and butter. Supple, oily flavors of pineapple, bacon fat and ample oak. Red apple highlights the close. $17
88 Faiveley, 2003 Mâcon-Prissé
Mâcon-Prissé
Complex scents of apricot, lemon, dusty slate and sandalwood. Hesitant flavors of apple and citrus. Lemony-fresh finish perks up the palate. $17
91 Faiveley, 2003 Clos Rochette
Mercurey
Rich aromas of apricot, oak char and honey open significantly with air. Youthful flavors of grilled pineapple and oak are a bit strident at present. Lingering, honey-coated close. $26
87 Faiveley, 2003 Les Joncs
Montagny
Warm scents of pineapple and dusty minerals with an intriguing Fino Sherry note. Flavors of macerated apple and oak. Long, tangy finish. $19
89 Domaine Louis Moreau, 2004 Chablis
Chablis
Flinty scents of honeydew melon, white flowers and minerals. Balanced, citrusy flavors of lemon and chalk with a mellowing note of butterscotch. Tangy close sports lots of fruit. $27
91 Domaine Louis Moreau, 2003 Vaillons
Chablis Premier Cru
Honeyed, though not unctuous, aromas of apricot and apple with a freshening green leaf note. Waxy, nutty flavors of citrus blossom, peach, chalk and caramel. Green apple livens the already impressive finish. $39
91 Domaine Louis Moreau, 2003 Les Clos
Chablis Grand Cru
Luscious aromas of poached pear, pineapple, tangerine, crème brûlée and honey. Complex flavors of dried apricot, apple butter, clove honey and tobacco. Spicy, fruit-driven close. $39
Loire
90 Château de Fontaine-Audon, 2004 Sancerre
Sancerre
Very vibrant aromas of honeydew melon, lemon, wet stone and tea. Chalky flavors of lime and bee honey are showcased by juicy acids. Continued lime notes in the tangy close. $24
88 Langlois-Château, 2003 Les Pierrefeux
Pouilly-Fumé
Subtle scents of lime peel, straw and oak char. Creamy flavors of cantaloupe, honey and pecan. Tidy finish features pear. $31
92 Langlois-Château, 2001 Saumur Blanc
Vieilles Vignes, Saumur
Intensely honeyed aromas of orange blossom, yellow peach, Golden Delicious apple, vanilla custard and nutmeg. Soft, ripe flavors of buttered peach, apricot, cedar and oak char. Long, mellow finish. $28
93 Nicolas Joly, 2003 Château de la Roche-aux-Moines
Les Clos Sacrés, Savennières
Subtle aromas of butternut and macerated apricot. Rich, honeyed flavors of citrus peel and buttered peach have both a luxurious texture and great balance. Stone fruit highlights the plush close. $29
White Rhône
90 M. Chapoutier, 2004 La Bernardine Blanc
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Direct aromas of pear, almond and white flowers. A slight oiliness marks flavors of buttered apple and peach pit. Long finish concludes on a sweet note. $45
91 M. Chapoutier, 2004 Les Meysonniers Blanc
Crozes-Hermitage
Minerally scents of apple blossom and honey. Rich flavors of banana and marzipan have a distinct, nutty bitterness. Soft close is loaded with fruit. $25
90 M. Chapoutier, 2004 Condrieu
Condrieu
Floral, honeyed aromas of apricot and beeswax are nicely grounded by wet stone notes. Soft flavors of stone fruit and mango possess a peach fuzz texture. Dries up a bit in the finish. $66
Red Burgundy
91 Faiveley, 2003 Domaine de la Croix Jacquelet
Mercurey
Muscular, earthy aromas of black cherry, plum and pencil lead are lightened a touch by perfumed floral notes. Flavors of blackberry, cigar box and dusty minerals are framed by tooth-coating tannins. Continued earth theme in the close. $22
92 Faiveley, 2003 Clos des Myglands
Mercurey Premier Cru
Reserved, floral aromas of underbrush and minerals with black fruit notes in the background. Well-stuffed flavors of plum, coffee and lots of earth show off toothy tannins. Vibrant, earthy finish. $38
92 Faiveley, 2003 Nuits-Saint-Georges
Nuits-Saint-Georges
Airing coaxes out reluctant aromas of black cherry, dried leaves, cedar and char. Black coffee acidity frames taut flavors of blackberry and oak spice. Gripping close. $53
95 Faiveley, 2003 Clos des Cortons Faiveley
Corton Grand Cru
Big, bracing aromas of blackberry, tobacco, bacon fat and dust. Far-from-ready flavors of black cherry, bittersweet chocolate, dried tobacco and espresso are a bit more forthcoming than the nose. Thickly layered finish packed with black fruit. $167
Red Rhône
86 M. Chapoutier, 2003 Belleruche
Côtes-du-Rhône
Grapy aromas of blackberry, oak spice and smoke. Bold flavors of black fruit, dried tobacco and mocha. Dry, earthy close. $14
90 M. Chapoutier, 2003 Les Meysonniers Rouge
Crozes-Hermitage
A floral note yields to aromas of raspberry, leather and oak char. High-toned flavors of red berries, citrus, coffee and black pepper. Fresh finish. $25
91 M. Chapoutier, 2003 La Bernardine Rouge
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Somewhat reserved aromas of mixed berries, orange peel and mocha with a floral note. Soft, fruit-forward flavors of strawberry, cherry, wood spice and bittersweet chocolate. Licorice and coffee mark the long close. $36
93 M. Chapoutier, 2003 Gigondas
Gigondas
Rugged aromas of blackberry, cherry, tobacco, dust, clove and mint. Fruity, though not frivolous, flavors of black cherry, graphite and mocha are balanced and lithe. Vanilla bean heightens the finish. $39
91 M. Chapoutier, 2002 La Sizeranne
Hermitage
Very peppery aromas of black fruit, grill pan, pine resin and anise. Dry, earthy flavors of blackberry, espresso, menthol and smoke are quite youthful. Lightens up somewhat in the close. $72
Italy
Chardonnay
86 Ambrogio Folonari, 2003 Cabreo
La Pietra Chardonnay di Toscana IGT
Lemon peel and wet stone aromas. Creamy peach and vanilla flavors. Dry, clean close. $26
88 Bollini, 2004 Barricato 40 Chardonnay
Trentino
Fresh peach, apple and clove aromas. Clean apple and pineapple flavors with a note of honey. Nice ripeness; a note of toast in the finish. $11
92 Ca'del Bosco, 2002 Chardonnay
Terre di Franciacorta
Ripe aromas of caramel, grilled pineapple and apple sauce. Nectar-like flavors of peach, pineapple and butterscotch. A stylized, over-the-top Chardonnay that's one lick away from being dessert. $115
Pinot Grigio
87 Bollini, 2004 Pinot Grigio
Trentino
Sweet scents of honey, apple cider and grapefruit. Ripe flavors of apple and honey with a hint of nutmeg. Soft cidery finish. $14
88 Bollini, 2003 Pinot Grigio
Reserve Selection, Grave del Friuli
Pungent sea shore aromas. Honeyed peach and pineapple flavors have an oily texture. Rather tasty; however, Chardonnay comes to mind. $18
88 Collavini, 2004 Villa Canlungo Pinot Grigio
Collio
Flinty mineral scents with light cantaloupe and clove notes. Ripe tropical fruit flavors have youthful, balancing acidity. Crisp, lively finish. $17
87 Lungarotti, 2004 Pinot Grigio
Umbria IGT
Toasted mixed grain aromas followed by lemon drop and peach notes. Flavors of grapefruit and orange. The close gains momentum. $17
90 Maso Canali, 2004 Pinot Grigio
Trentino
Forward aromas of sliced apple, butterscotch and white frosting. Apple and pear flavors possess excellent weight and structure. The finish has a fresh, acidic zing followed by a lingering, controlled sweetness. $23
88 Santa Margherita, 2004 Pinot Grigio
Alto Adige
Zesty and fresh with lemon peel and white flower aromas. Snappy sliced apple and citrus flavors. Closes on a cleansing mineral note. $25
86 Torresella, 2004 Pinot Grigio
Veneto IGT
Shy citrus peel aromas with a secondary earthiness. Crisp grapefruit flavors couple with mineral notes. Dry finish ends on a lightly sweet, citrus note. $14
85 Bertani, 2004 Valante Pinot Grigio
Veneto IGT
$12
85 Pighin, 2004 Pinot Grigio
Grave del Friuli
$15
84 Pighin, 2004 Pinot Grigio
Collio
$23
Other Whites
88 Anselmi, 2004 San Vincenzo
Veneto IGT
Ripe cantaloupe aromas with a note of resin. Grapefruit and apricot flavors hold onto a youthful tartness. Mineral and citrus bite in the close. $12
86 Anselmi, 2004 Capitel Foscarino
Veneto IGT
Fresh pineapple aromas with minerally notes. Ripe flavors of peach and pineapple have excellent weight and texture. Very soft, ready-to-drink finish. $19
92 Anselmi, 2003 Capitel Croce
Veneto IGT
An uplifting bouquet of lemon curd, toasted oak and apricot. Creamy, juicy and loaded with peach and apricot flavors. A lengthy, enjoyable close with plenty of lively acidity. $19
90 Ca'del Bosco, 2004 Maurizio Zanella Bianco
Terre di Franciacorta
Pineapple scents have a defined floral accent. Apple, pineapple and melon rind flavors. Acids are fresh and lively, while meshing nicely with the mineral and clove notes that reside in the finish. $38
89 Collestefano, 2004 Verdicchio di Matelica
Verdicchio di Matelica
Clean, minty aromas of pear and almond peel. Lip-smacking flavors of peach pit and lemon. Long, very lemony close. $20
90 Dario Raccaro, 2004 Bianco
Collio
Aromas of lemon blossom and minerals are quite subtle. Dry, balanced flavors of spring flowers and gravel. Long, fresh finish. $32
90 Enrico Santini, 2004 Campo Alla Casa
Bolgheri
Ripe, tropical aromas of banana and mango have a sweet oak dimension to them. Lively flavors of honeydew melon and minerals are crisper than suggested by the nose. Creamy, citrusy close. $19
88 Eugenio Collavini, 2004 Broy
Collio
Very floral scents of pineapple and sweet yellow flowers. Soft flavors of apricot, butter and oak. Viscous close. $37
88 Feudi di San Gregorio, 2004 Falanghina
Sannio
Aromas of sour orange and mixed nuts. Lively flavors of white fruit and almond butter possess a soft mouth-feel. Minerals lend class to the finish. $12
90 Feudi di San Gregorio, 2004 Fiano
Fiano di Avellino
Subtle aromas of pear blossom and toasted almond. Tightly bound flavors of lemon, apricot and wood char. Zesty close is loaded with fruit. $21
90 Feudi di San Gregorio, 2004 Serrocielo
Sannio
Ripe aromas of apricot, white flowers and almond paste. Creamy mix of orange peel, lemon curd and minerals. Lingering finish shows off a fruity sweetness. $30
91 Feudi di San Gregorio, 2004 Pietracalda
Fiano di Avellino
Spicy scents of orange zest and apricot preserves. layered flavors of apple, toasted almond and honey. Intense close lends weight to the wine. $30
91 Feudi di San Gregorio, 2004 Cutizzi
Greco di Tufo
Highly nuanced aromas of peach, flowers and minerals. Balancing acidity adds dimension to flavors of pear, stone and herbs. Tangy finish. $30
91 Lungarotti, 2004 Bianco
Torgiano
Honeydew melon scents with an attractive whiff of vanilla extract. Crisp and fresh with green apple, melon and flint flavors. Balancing sweetness caps the close. $17
89 Manni Nössing, 2004 Veltliner
Südtirol Eisacktaler
Floral, minty aromas of sour apple and herbs. Tart, refreshing flavors of kiwi and pear. Spicy finish is squeaky clean and invigorating. $28
91 Manni Nössing, 2004 Sylvaner
Südtirol Eisacktaler
Perfumed, grassy aromas of ripe apple and anise. Flavors of peach, white flowers and butter exude charm and show great balance. Soft, waxy close. $35
92 Manni Nössing, 2004 Kerner
Südtirol Eisacktaler
Fresh aromas of pear, spearmint, dusty minerals and herbs. Lusciously juicy flavors of lemon and lime with continued green notes. Warm finish. $35
88 Pighin, 2004 Bianco Terre di Risano
Grave del Friuli
Aromas of peach, pineapple and honey. Peach nectar flavors possess a nervy edge of fresh acidity. Good length with a combination of mineral and tropical fruit flavors. $15
90 Rosa Bosco, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Colli Orientali del Friuli
Intense, gamy aromas of grilled peach, bacon fat and tobacco. Honeyed flavors of baked apple, butter and wood spice. Candied citrus peel sweetens up the finish. $50
90 Schiopetto, 2004 Mario Schiopetto
Venezia Giulia IGT
Ripe, very fragrant aromas of tropical fruit with a balancing kiwi thread throughout. Quite big and full flavors of white fruit and cantaloupe. Long, very polished close. $48
89 Schiopetto, 2004 Blanc des Rosis
Venezia Giulia IGT
Reserved scents of peach and apricot emit pretty perfume notes. Balanced flavors of apricot, plum and honeysuckle. Lots of apple in the tart close. $33
92 Schiopetto, 2004 Pinot Bianco
Collio
Bracingly fresh aromas of apple and minerals show admirable restraint given their vibrancy. Juicy, perfectly balanced flavors of green apple, minerals and baking spice are delivered by way of a luscious texture. Lingering, pristine finish. $37
93 Schiopetto, 2004 Tocai Friulano
Collio
Fresh aromas of pear blossom and butter are simultaneously beautifully floral and herbal. Bushels of peach and paraffin flavors are kept in balance by ample acidity. Sweet, honeyed close. $37
88 Tenuta Giuncheo, 2004 Vermentino
Vermentino Riviera Ligure di Ponente
Rich aromas of apricot, orange marmalade and buttered bread. Warm, tangy flavors of stone fruit and baking spices. Buttered peach in the close. $30
90 Tenuta Guado al Tasso, 2004 Vermentino
Bolgheri
Melon and flint aromas with just a hint of resin. Crisp and spritzy with lime peel and clove flavors. This is a lively, energized wine with a rainbow of flavors in the finish. $20
85 Ambrogio e Giovanni, 2004 Vermentino
Campo al Mare, Toscana IGT
$17
84 Cecchi, 2004 Orvieto Classico
Orvieto
$11
Barolo
88 Batasiolo, 2001 Barolo
Barolo
Old-style aromas of dried cherry, cedar and lots of dust. Lively, earthy flavors of raspberry, citrus and wood. Softens somewhat in the close. $37
92 Ceretto, 2001 Barolo
Prapò, Barolo
Heady aromas of cranberry, strawberry, red licorice, tobacco, smoke and nutmeg. Very tangy flavors of sweet raspberry, citrus blossom, clove and oak char are crisp and racy. Dried fruit and cedar highlight the bold finish. $75
92 Ceretto, 2001 Bricco Rocche
Brunate, Barolo
Lovely scents of mixed berries, cherry blossom, baking spice, smoke and tobacco. Flavors of plum, strawberry, cedar and clove are concentrated without being overwrought. Lingering finish shows off tempered tannins and dried cherry notes. $75
91 Ceretto, 2001 Barolo
Bricco Rocche, Barolo
Reserved aromas of plum, cherry, mint and smoke are lifted a bit by a coconut note. Sturdy flavors of cherry, citrus, minerals, espresso and wood. Tar and raspberry in the close. $200
90 Luigi Baudana, 2000 Baudana
Serralunga, Barolo
Peppery aromas of plum and red meat are followed by pretty floral notes. Youthful, tightly wound flavors of spicy cherry, lots of citrus and well-integrated oak. Gripping finish. $50
92 Luigi Baudana, 2000 Cerretta Piani
Serralunga, Barolo
A Port-like warmth frames aromas of blackberry, milk chocolate and tar. Sweet, chalky flavors of cherry, tobacco, minerals and graphite. Layers of brown spice and espresso in the close. $60
87 Nando, 2000 Barolo
Barolo
Pungent aromas of stewed plum, cedar and the warmth of alcohol. Velvety flavors of tart cherry and tar lift the wine's profile. Soft finish. $41
93 S. Biagio, 1998 Barolo Riserva
Barolo
Warm, layered aromas of cherry preserves, licorice, tar and cedar. Extracted, intense flavors of macerated cherry, fruit cake and menthol. Amply wooded close is nonetheless smooth and inviting. $60
Brunello
89 Casanuova delle Cerbaie, 1999 Brunello
Brunello di Montalcino
Quite woody aromas of cranberry, cherry pit, dried leaves and dust. Spicy flavors of cherry and minerals with earthy garden notes. Warm, very dry close. $60
93 Casanuova delle Cerbaie, 1999 Riserva
Brunello di Montalcino
Complex scents of cherry, damp stone, violets, sweetened coffee and leather. Very minerally, very earthy flavors of cherry pit, tobacco, tea and cedar are framed by racy acidity and youthful tannins. Espresso and clove mark the long finish. $120
92 Il Poggione, 2000 Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino
Layered aromas of stewed plum, cherry, tobacco, maple and iodine. Tautly balanced flavors of dried cherry, minerals, redwood and brown spice. Citrusy close concludes on a candied fruit note. $62
91 Il Poggione, 1999 Brunello Riserva
Brunello di Montalcino
Floral, dusty aromas of plum, cherry, dried tobacco, mint and graphite. Cedary, woodsy flavors of dried cherry, maple, resin and black pepper. Racy, minerally finish. $83
88 Ruffino, 2000 Tenuta Greppone Mazzi
Brunello di Montalcino
A bouquet of flint, walnut, cedar box and vanilla. Dry cherry flavors have an aggressive oakiness. Sweet close. $63
90 Silvio Nardi, 2000 Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino
Reserved scents of cherry pit, mushroom, damp stone, cedar box and mocha. Intense, youthful flavors of red cherry, orange and pencil. Weighty finish features lots of mineral notes. $58
89 Tenimenti Angelini, 2000 Val di Suga
Brunello di Montalcino
Warm aromas of stewed plum and brown sugar with garden notes. Spicy flavors of cherry, clove, cedar and dust. Zingy close shows ample wood. $50
88 Tenuta La Fuga, 1999 Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino
Sweet pecan, resin and redwood aromas. Stinging acids give way to flavors of cherry, date and prune. This is an extremely vibrant, spicy wine that needs time to ripen and let the fruit come forward. $56
90 Tenuta La Fuga, 1999 Le Due Sorelle Riserva
Brunello di Montalcino
Fresh citrus peel and resin aromas. Lots of new oak frames flavors of resin, citrus, tea and mocha. Very fine tannins in the finish with a spicy mix of cherry fruit and cedar notes. $66
Chianti
90 Antinori, 2000 Marchese Antinori Riserva
Chianti Classico
Floral scents of blackberry, minerals and chocolate are a complete package. Silky flavors of cherry, espresso and earth are framed by spicy tannins. Mocha and vanillin oak mark the close. $30
87 Banfi, 2002 Chianti Classico Riserva
Chianti Classico
Subtly warm aromas of cherry, minerals and cedar box. Tangy flavors of raspberry, tobacco and wet stone. Dry, earthy finish. $18
87 Cecchi, 2004 Arcano
Chianti Colli Senesi
Beautiful combination of strawberry, cherry and earth aromas. Lean, leathery flavors of cherry and earth with vanillin notes. Tart close. $15
86 Rocca delle Macie, 2003 Chianti Classico
Chianti Classico
Earthy aromas of raspberry and damp stone. Creamy flavors of tart cherry and cedar. Dry finish exhibits wood. $16
88 Ruffino, 2001 Ducale Oro Riserva
Chianti Classico
Pungent, gamy aromas of cherry and earth allow floral notes to peek through. Sweet, soft flavors of black cherry and mocha. Espresso-laced close. $40
87 Spalletti, 2004 Chianti
Chianti
Maraschino cherry and chocolate aromas. Forward black cherry flavors have the zing of redwood. Chalky finish. $11
86 Tenimenti Angelini, 2002 Sanleonino
Chianti Classico
Barnyardy aromas of espresso and cedar leave the fruit in the background. Cedary red berry flavors. Woody close. $18
87 Tenuta di Nozzole, 2001 Riserva
Chianti Classico
Resin, prune, cedar box and tar aromas. Chalky cherry flavors with a peppery accent. A note of citrus peel in the finish. $25
90 Tenuta di Nozzole, 2001 La Forra Riserva
Chianti Classico
Fresh oak, clove, violet and iodine aromas. Clove and black cherry flavors show an edge of chalkiness. A combination of wood tannins and a lively menthol note in the close. $40
Other Tuscan Reds
88 Ambrogio Folonari, 2001 Cabreo Il Borgo
Toscana IGT
Smokehouse aromas with tea, tobacco and leather notes. Tart cherry, licorice, oak and chocolate flavors. Rough-hewn tannins in the youthful finish. $47
88 Ambrogio Folonari, 2001 Tor Calvano
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
A bouquet of pencil shavings, redwood and bell pepper. Cherry and strawberry flavors laced with crisp acids and youthful tannins. Peppery close. $23
92 Ambrogio e Giovanni, 2003 Campo al Mare
Bolgheri
A heady mix of cherry, clove and Worcestershire sauce. Opulent plum and cherry flavors have a woodsy, campfire nuance. Mint and clove cap the finish. $30
92 Banfi, 2001 Excelsus
Sant'Antimo
Bouquet of blueberry, cream and pencil shavings. Healthy blueberry and mineral flavors highlight the palate. Typical of the kindred softness and sweetness that exist in Banfi's line of Super Tuscans. $78
91 Banfi, 2001 Summus
Sant'Antimo
Ripe aromas of plum and blueberry. An extremely friendly quaff that echoes the bouquet with unctuous black fruit flavors that pick up notes of clove, coffee and oak along the way. Ripeness is the theme of this artful blend. $66
91 Casanuova delle Cerbaie, 2002 Cerbaione
Toscana IGT
Mocha, coffee and vanilla flavors with a medicinal note. Earthy and pungent with crisp red fruit flavors spiked with oak, clove and spicy acids. A lively, racy finish with a lingering sweetness. $53
92 Gagliole, 2003 Rosso
Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT
Forward aromas of cherry, vanilla, charred oak and lanolin. Intense cherry flavors with stiff tannins and crisp acids. This is a youthful, well-made wine loaded with compact fruit and polished oak that needs time to come forward. $75
93 Gagliole, 2003 Pecchia
Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT
A menthol-laced bouquet with notes of charcoal, new leather, cherry and vanilla. Polished cherry flavors with peppery, fine-grain tannins. An intense, tightly knit wine with a steely edge of crisp acidity that needs time. $115
93 Ruffino, 2000 Romitorio di Santedame
Toscana IGT
Attractive scents of nutmeg, cherry, minerals and coconut. Spicy cherry and clove flavors laced with fine tannins. Cherry flavors mix with a dusting of tobacco. Finishes on an earthy note. $70
Other Reds
92 Bertani, 2000 Villa Arvedi
Amarone della Valpolicella
Youthful and somewhat restrained aromas of black cherry, graphite, earth and lanolin. Silky, balanced flavors of cherry skin, dust and minerals are classically sweet and supple. Wood tannins show themselves in the finish. $54
93 Gastaldi, 2001 Barbaresco
Barbaresco
Inviting aromas of dark chocolate, black cherry, leather, redwood and coconut. Pungent and spicy with razor-sharp flavors of cherry, pencil and resin. Youthful tannins make for a promising future. $65
92 Luigi Baudana, 2001 Lorenso
Langhe
Mint, leather and butternut aromas. Soft cherry and vanilla flavors with a secondary wave of tea and tobacco. Fine sandpaper tannins, redwood and cedar punctuate the close. $45
90 Tenuta Sant'Antonio, 2002 Amarone
Amarone della Valpolicella
Warm, peppery aromas of plum, cherry, mint and clove. Expressive flavors of cherries jubilee, coffee, dark chocolate and the warmth of alcohol. Soft, silky finish has a cherry pit bitterness. $50
Argentina
Whites
90 Andeluna, 2003 Chardonnay
Reserve, Mendoza
Mango and pineapple aromas with note of oak and cinnamon. This is a well-extracted, creamy Chard with peach, honey and nutmeg flavors. Balanced finish delivers tropical fruit flavors. $23
86 Famiglia Bianchi, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
San Rafael, Mendoza
Wet stone aromas with a note of mint. Light citrus flavors have a persistent chalky nuance. Fresh, acidic close. $15
Reds
87 Andeluna, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Mendoza
Subtle scents of ripe strawberry, tobacco and cedar. Sweet, juicy cherry flavors make for a real crowd pleaser. Continued sweet fruit in the lively finish. $23
92 Cheval de Andes, 2002 Red Wine
Vistalba, Mendoza
A bouquet of plum, tobacco and leather with a hint of lanolin. Upfront plum and blueberry flavors with a pungent earthiness that works its way through. Youthful, chalky tannins and prickly acids temper the sweetness in the close. $65
Chile
Chardonnay
87 Casa Lapostolle, 2004 Chardonnay
Casablanca Valley
Fresh butterscotch and pineapple aromas. Supple peach, pineapple and sliced apple flavors. Juicy, sweet finish with a lick of clove. $12
87 Casa Lapostolle, 2004 Cuvée Alexandre
Atalayas Vineyard, Casablanca Valley
Forward aromas of honey, nutmeg and caramel. Cubed pineapple flavors with a note of brown spice. Fruit cocktail in the close. $18
92 Concha y Toro, 2003 Amelia Chardonnay
Casablanca Valley
Ripe pineapple, banana, vanilla and sweet oak aromas. An abundance of tropical fruit flavors including mango, pineapple, peach and banana. Clove and brown spices add to the exotic finish. $35
86 Cousiño-Macul, 2004 Chardonnay
Antiguas Reservas, Maipo Valley
A bouquet of pecan, honey and minerals. Apricot and peach flavors laced with fresh acids. Lively, clean close. $14
88 Errazuriz, 2004 Wild Ferment Chardonnay
Casablanca Valley
Smoky campfire scents with vanilla and honey notes. Tangy, grilled pineapple flavors laced with charred oak. Over-the-top finish may please the hedonist and disappoint the traditionalist. $21
86 Haras, 2004 Elegance Chardonnay
Maipo Valley
Clove and evergreen scents with a leafy note. Ripe tropical fruit flavors with an aggressive oak nuance. Grapefruit tartness in the close. $25
Sauvignon Blanc
86 Duo, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Casablanca Valley
A mixed bouquet of vanilla, clove, lemon and green tomato. A light, airy wine with citrus and mineral flavors. Squeaky clean close. $14
87 Gran Araucano, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Casablanca Valley
Garden scents with a petrol note. A rather hefty wine with a combination of pungent, earthy flavors and crisp citrus. Finishes on a fruity note. $20
86 Haras, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Maipo Valley
Rich aromas of pineapple, melon and vanilla. Tart and rather crisp with lemon peel, mineral and vegetable leaf flavors. Very dry, verdant close. $16
87 Veramonte, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Casablanca Valley
Fresh lemon peel, tomato leaf and rhubarb aromas. Citrus and mineral flavors. Bone-dry finish could use a dollop of fruit. $9
85 Errazuriz, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Casablanca Valley
$11
Cabernet & Blends
88 Albis, 2002 Red Wine
Maipo Valley
Bell pepper and earth aromas push the raspberry notes to the background. Creamy flavors of cherry and espresso are well meshed and clean. Soft, amply fruited finish. $50
92 Altaïr Vineyard & Winery, 2003 Altaïr
Cachapoal Valley
Cherry liqueur aromas laced with cedar, pencil shavings and charcoal. Polished black cherry flavors with crisp acidity and fine grain tannins. The 17% carmenère added to the blend gets credit for the peppery nuance in the close. $59
88 Altaïr Vineyard & Winery, 2003 Sideral
Rapel Valley
Forward menthol aromas with plum, coconut and new oak. An accessible blend of cabernet (84%) with merlot, syrah and sangiovese tucked between the staves. Cherry and cranberry flavors take center stage with a note of charred oak in the finish. $29
86 Casa Lapostolle, 2003 Cuvée Alexandre
Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley
Meaty, earthy aromas of cherry, dust and vanilla. Round flavors of cherry and milk chocolate. Sweet-tart close is a bit short on staying power. $20
86 Cousiño-Macul, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Antiguas Reservas, Maipo Valley
Bell peppery aromas of red fruit and tobacco. Flavors of raspberry and vanillin oak are more polished than the nose. Bushels of fruit in the close. $14
90 Concha y Toro, 2002 Don Melchor
Puente Alto
Nuanced aromas of earth, smoke and pencil with black fruit notes. Creamy flavors of ripe blackberry, semisweet chocolate and charred oak. Long, tingly finish. $47
89 Gran Araucano, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Colchagua Valley
Lovely, perfumed aromas of red cherry, black pepper and pipe tobacco. Soft, balanced flavors of strawberry preserves, mocha and nicely seasoned oak. Fruit-filled close. $35
Carmenère
89 Errazuriz, 2004 Don Maximiano
Single Vineyard, Aconcagua Valley
Warm, peppery aromas of blackberry and bittersweet chocolate. Very peppery, chalky flavors of black fruit and earth are layered and rich. Plush finish. $24
87 Hacienda Araucano, 2004 Carmenère
Central Valley
Earthy, varietal aromas of black fruit and bell pepper. Soft flavors of cherry and cedar lift the wine's profile. Sweetens up in the close. $11
90 Hacienda Araucano, 2003 Alka Carmenère
Colchagua Valley
Reserved aromas of mixed berries, treacle and cedar box. Soft, sweet flavors of blueberry, citrus peel and coffee. Long, lush finish is marked by continued ripe fruit notes. $65
86 Tarapaca, 2003 Carmenère
Maipo Valley
Gamy, earthy aromas are less about fruit than garden scents. Soft, minerally flavors of spicy blackberry and tobacco. Peppery close. $10
85 Aroboleda, 2003 Carmenère
Colchagua Valley
$15
Tutored Tastings
Trimbach
The following wines were tasted by Executive Editor Todd Wernstrom on October 10, 2005, in Miami, Florida, with Jean Trimbach. The wines were not tasted blind and are listed in the order in which they were tasted. 90 Trimbach, 2000 Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling
Vin d'Alsace
Intense aromas of ripe grapefruit, minerals and petrol. Citrusy acidity freshens considerable flavors of lime and chalk. Dry, but not tart finish. $30
91 Trimbach, 1989 Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling
Vin d'Alsace
Reticent floral aromas of citrus peel and petrol. Still tight - but not mean - flavors of lime, grapefruit and minerals; less about fruit than structure. $N/A
95 Trimbach, 2000 Clos Ste. Hune Riesling
Vin d'Alsace
Fragrant aromas of white grapefruit, lime, tobacco and cedar. Balanced, tart flavors of orange, lime and chalk practically ooze minerally freshness. $145
96 Trimbach, 1990 Clos Ste. Hune Riesling
Vin d'Alsace
Subtle, complex, layered aromas of apricot and honey. Luscious and lively flavors of orange marmalade, grapefruit and honey somehow finish bone dry. $300
95 Trimbach, 2000 Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling
Vendanges Tradives, Vin d'Alsace
A lime peel freshness gives structure to waves of orange marmalade, honey and tobacco aromas. Perfectly balanced flavors of orange peel and honey are just a bit sweeter than dry. $77
94 Trimbach, 1989 Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling
Vendanges Tradives, Vin d'Alsace
Exotic aromas of lime, sandalwood, brown spice and dried tobacco. Mouth-filling flavors of orange, lemon and cedar are refreshingly dry; the late-harvest quality shows up in the generous texture. $67
88 Trimbach, 2000 Pinot Gris
Réserve Personnelle, Vin d'Alsace
Lean scents of lime and chalk. Flavors of apricot and red apple conclude on a sweet note and have a generous texture. $35
93 Trimbach, 2000 Hommage à Jeanne Pinot Gris
Vin d'Alsace
Minerally aromas of lime blossom, wet stone and chalk. Ripe, racy flavors of lemon, lime and chalk are housed by excellent structure and balance. $53
93 Trimbach, 2000 Gewürztraminer
Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre, Vin d'Alsace
Youthful aromas of lime blossom and wet stone with a hint of perfumed lychee. Flavors of lychee nut and baking spice have that classic Gewürz texture but are not over the top. $32
94 Trimbach, 1976 Gewürztraminer
Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre, Vin d'Alsace
Aromas of stone fruit, moist cedar and flowers are incredibly slow to reveal themselves even after so many years. A bare honey note yields to otherwise lean flavors of apricot pit and tobacco. $N/A
96 Trimbach, 2000 Pinot Gris
Vendanges Tradives, Vin d'Alsace
Unbelievably complex and unctuous aromas of orange marmalade, clove and sweet tobacco are jammy but not sweet. Very sweet flavors of apricot preserves and cedar have ample backing acidity and minerals to keep this huge package in balance. $53
94 Trimbach, 2000 Gewürztraminer
Vendanges Tradives, Vin d'Alsace
Classic Gewürz nose of lychee, white flowers, tobacco and sandalwood. Perfectly integrated flavors of apricot compote and sugared lime peel. $65
94 Trimbach, 2000 Pinot Gris
Sélection des Grains Nobles, Vin d'Alsace
Nicely dry though rich aromas of apricot pit, smoke and Asian spice. Sweet though not cloying flavors of ripe apple, lime jelly and butter. $147
95 Trimbach, 2000 Hors Choix Gewürztraminer
Sélection des Grains Nobles, Vin d'Alsace
Scents of lychee, mango, white flowers and custard are somewhat shy for Gewürztraminer. Smooth, super rich flavors of apricot preserves and butter are less tropical than the nose. $200
VinItaly US Tour
The following wines were tasted by BuyLine panelists at The Country Club of Coral Gables in Coral Gables, Florida, on February 10th as part of the "Great Wines of Italy" showcase moderated by editor-at-large David A. Beaulieu and presented by the "VinItaly US Tour." The wines were not tasted blind. 90 Cornarea, 2004 Arneis
Roero
Rose petal scents; wild flower and honey nuances on the rich palate; structured and full. $20
91 Cantina San Paolo, 2004 Pinot Bianco
Exclusiv Ploetzner, Alto Adige
Aromas and flavors of citrus blossom, grapefruit and minerals; generous acidity. Unctuous, velvety mouth-feel. Long, citrusy finish. $20
90 Assennato, 2004 Nero d'Avola
Eloro
Pretty nose of cherry, raspberry and mint; cherry lollipop, red beet and almond accents in the mouth; elegant and balanced. $18
94 Cornarea, 2001 Tarasco
Roero
Honeycomb nose; apricot and honey flavors; lush and balanced; butterscotch finish resonates on the palate. Stunning. $44 (375 ml)
West Coast Case
Contributing Editor Steve Pitcher reviewed the following selection of current-release Pinot Noirs in San Francisco. The wines were tasted blind. 91 Belle Glos, 2004 Pinot Noir
Las Alturas Vnyd, Santa Lucia Highlands
Premier release from this estate vineyard owned by Mer Soleil and Caymus. Wonderfully aromatic scents of violets, red fruit and smoked meat with hints of clover and mildly toasty oak. Smooth as silk with concentrated, spicy raspberry-strawberry fruit tinged with mocha. An elegant, yet well-stuffed Pinot with a long, fruity finish. $48/1,000 cases
90 Clos Pegase, 2003 Pinot Noir
Mitsuko's Vnyd, Carneros-Napa Valley
Seven clones, Dijon 777, 114, 828, 115 and 667, plus California heritage clones Swan and Pommard account for the remarkable complexity of this Carneros charmer. Ripe red cherry, cola, plum and violets show in the aromas and palate, with hints of lavender, lemon thyme and subtle earthiness emerging with airing. $30/2,203 cases
91 Elke, 2003 Gold Label Pinot Noir
Donnelly Creek Vnyd, Anderson Valley
A charming wine made by Greg La Follette from two clones grown just outside Philo in a cooler pocket of already-cool Anderson Valley. The nose starts out with strawberry and cassis and evolves to rich black fruit with a cedar nuance. Brimming with luscious strawberry-blackberry fruit, this is a well-stuffed Pinot that's elegant at the same time. $28/80 cases
90 Handley, 2004 Pinot Noir
Mendocino County
Strawberries and wild dark berries combine to form the basis of the aromas and flavors of this modestly priced, but generously flavored Pinot from vineyards in cool Anderson Valley and warmer, inland Potter Valley. Add some nutmeg spice to the mix as well as hints of violets and coffee bean, plus soft tannins and fine acid balance, and you have an early drinking, versatile Pinot. $19/690 cases
90 Merry Edwards, 2003 Pinot Noir
Klopp Ranch, Russian River Valley
Fragrant aromas that expand with airing exhibit succulent, just-crushed wild strawberry and blackberry, enlivened by a touch of cassis. Smooth and velvety with fine grain tannins and generous flavors that replicate the aromas. $48/1,250 cases
93 Merry Edwards, 2003 Pinot Noir
Meredith Estate, Sonoma Coast
Forward, fresh scents of strawberry, cassis and wilted roses that offer subtle notes of spice as the wine airs in the glass. Rich, even voluptuous, with excellent acid balance and deep, extracted flavors of dark berries that pick up vanilla and spice notes in the extended finish. Superb Pinot. $48/636 cases
92 Merry Edwards, 2003 Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley
Sourced from six vineyards, including Meredith Estate and Klopp Ranch, this delightful Pinot offers the strawberry-blackberry fruit scents that link it to all her Pinots, but here enhanced by notes of plum, mocha and a hint of black pepper. Plush and juicy from the outset, with generous, spicy berry fruit and a silky texture. $34/1,700 cases
95 Morgan, 2004 Pinot Noir
Garys' Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands
From a grand cru vineyard in the prime mid-point of the AVA densely planted with the so-called Pisoni clone (allegedly from purloined La Tâche cuttings smuggled into California in the early 1980s), this luxuriant Pinot offers forward, slightly toasty aromas of black raspberry, vanilla bean, espresso and minerals. Full bodied, richly textured and brimming with vibrant, ripe, deep, complex raspberry, cassis and black cherry flavors; displays excellent structure. $45/300 cases
90 Row Eleven, 2003 Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley
The winery owns no vineyards, but winemaker Richard de los Reyes has a knack for finding the best rows in the best blocks from high-quality vineyards in seven counties - hence the name. This gem emphasizes the red cherry and wild strawberry fruit associated with the Russian River Valley in both aromatics and flavors, enhanced by a bright note of minerality and a touch of toast. $34/690 cases
90 Row Eleven, 2003 Pinot Noir
Santa Maria Valley
Dark ruby color with vivid black cherry-cola aromas accented with some forest-floor earthiness. Silky textured with medium tannins, the wine's flavors replicate the nose and are deep, concentrated and lasting. $29/1,200 cases
93 Talley, 2003 Pinot Noir
Rincon Vineyard, Arroyo Grande Valley
Forward, intense, moderately toasty aromas exhibit framboise, baking spices, rose petals and violet notes. Plump and velvety rich on the palate with medium-full tannins and copious, very ripe strawberry-black cherry fruit, a trace of minerality and a grace note of white pepper. An expressive, very exciting Pinot. $50/490 cases
92 Truchard, 2002 Pinot Noir
Carneros-Napa Valley
Exuberant aromas of wild strawberry, nutmeg and slightly toasty oak. Silky smooth and seamless with layers of ripe strawberry, red cherry and cranberry flavors, enhanced by toasty oak notes. Balanced acidity and smooth, supple tannins round out the package, leading into an extended finish that exhibits touches of earthiness and spice; very complex and a joy to drink. $28/3,693 cases
About the BuyLine Panel: More than 100 wines are reviewed in every issue of Wine News. All wines are tasted double-blind and each entry is evaluated and scored based upon individual merit. Wines that score above 70 points are recommended in the BuyLine. Tasting and interpreting wine is a purely subjective exercise; all scores and accompanying tasting notes represent the collective opinions of our panel.
Wine Samples: Send samples for review with retail price affixed to:
Wine News BuyLine Tasting Panel
1501 Venera Avenue, Suite 320
Coral Gables, FL 33146
Telephone: 305.740.7170
The Panel: Maurice Adams, specialty food and wine merchant; Lyn Farmer, senior staff columnist; Abraham Horowitz, BuyLine panelist; Tom E. Smith, publisher; John Stroker, BuyLine panelist; Fred Tasker, Miami Herald wine critic; Todd M. Wernstrom, executive editor.
Scoring: Tasting notes reflect the panel's collective impressions; scores are averaged and represent the panel's mean. Wines possessing certain criteria will be singled out for special recognition:
Taster's Choice: Wines which display outstanding quality, character and potential.
Best Value Wines of exceptional quality which sell at a moderate price.
Stemware: Riedel Ouverture tasting glasses.
Pricing: Prices vary from state to state. Retail prices listed are approximate.
