Lemonade samplers served at Matanzas Creek during its annual lavender celebration are sweetened with lavender syrup made by a local Sonoma County purveyor; “twizzle sprigs” of the herb make a fitting garnish.
	Lavender - Adding a sprig of the flowering Provence herb to the cook's bouquet By Carole Kotkin
		Lavender is, without a doubt, the most underrated culinary herb on the planet. When we think of lavender, the first thing that most often comes to mind is the lovely fragrance it lends to sachets, soap, perfumes and potpourri. Yet if we can get past thinking of lavender as aromatherapy, we can begin to appreciate its decided culinary attributes - characteristics such as its obvious floral aspects, as well as its slightly musky quality and delicate citrus component. Its potential in the kitchen has not been lost on the professionals. Lavender pops up on the menus of trendy, upscale restaurants as an ingredient in desserts and, increasingly, savory dishes. Chef Michelle Bernstein, who dazzled the Miami food crowd when she cooked at Azul in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel and is doing the same at her newly opened Michy's, adores using lavender. Its appeal is evident in her rendition of honey-dipped roasted rack of lamb coated in a mixture of pistachio nuts and lavender flowers. "Lavender gives a beautiful fragrance to food if used sparingly. Too much can be powerfully floral, but a pinch turns everyday recipes into more intense dishes with rich flavors," she says. "A little lavender sprinkled on a simple roast chicken, or used to flavor a silky crème brûlée, or in a deglazing sauce for roast duck is just delicious. It's also delicious in my soupe de poisson, an intense seafood broth finished with lavender and other herbs. I learned this from my mentor, the late chef Jean-Louis Palladin, and it's a beautiful marriage of flavors." She pairs this dish with either a fruity white wine or Champagne. Bernstein became captivated by lavender when she cooked at Auberge Le Fenière in Raphele-Les-Arles, Provence, where chefs traditionally combined it with other herbs. The herbes de Provence combination of lavender, thyme, rosemary and savory has been popular in France for what seems like centuries. And simply by driving through southern France in early fall, seeing the countryside spliced by brilliant ribbons of purple lavender fields, it is easy to understand why the plant is an integral part of the herbal blend that borrows its name from the region. Lavender is believed to have originated in the Mediterranean and North Africa, and is now domesticated in Egypt, Ethiopia, France, Greece, Italy, Nigeria, Portugal, Spain, Sudan, Syria, Yemen, and even in Switzerland and Yugoslavia, among other countries. Referred to in the Bible as "spikenard," its function as an herb was documented as early as 2,500 years ago. In some of its first-known applications, fragrant lavender was used in the preservation process of Egyptian mummies. It was also the primary ingredient in perfumes and soaps as far back as the Romans, who gave it the Latin root name lavare, meaning "to wash" - Roman men anointed themselves with lavender at public bath houses - from which we derive the modern name. Additionally, in The Lavender Cookbook, Sharon Shipley writes that "Since the days of the Roman Empire, lavender's distinctively scented flowers have been gathered for their healing and soothing properties, as well as for use as a culinary herb. England's Queen Elizabeth I was known to favor lavender in cooking and used lavender tea for treatment of severe migraine headaches." Four hundred years later, roughly 30 varieties of lavender are cultivated around the globe with Provence the lead producer and England second. There is an important distinction, however, between the two producers: Provençal lavender is mostly used for cooking, while English lavender is primarily used for making toiletries. Shipley notes, "I only use dried culinary lavender buds from the 'Provence' variety because they have a very low camphor level, a nice floral note and a gentle lavender flavor. Other varieties taste bitter or like Grandma's soap." No matter the type, lavender is a member of the lamiaceae family of plants - as are most culinary herbs, including mint, basil, oregano and sage. And although its woolly looking leaves are fragrant and edible with a slightly bitter flavor that is recommended for some recipes originating in southern France, it is the flowers and buds that are considered best for cooking. Dried lavender is nearly as good as fresh (it's packaged as loose flowers or buds still on the stem), but there is one rule of thumb in choosing culinary lavender: the darker the color of the blossom, the more intense the flavor. Lavenders with dark purple flowers also retain their color best when dried. (If your gourmet grocer does not stock it alongside other specialty herbs and spices, look for it among the tea supplies.) Louisa Jones, a cultural specialist who has lived in Provence for more than 30 years, recently published Provence Harvest, which includes 40 recipes by two-star Michelin chef Jacques Chibois of La Bastide Saint-Antoine in Grasse. "In Provence, lavender is a mountain crop only used in cooking by chefs like Jacques," Jones remarks. "It is not a primary seasoning used by home cooks" gleaned from their kitchen gardens. In the book, Chibois shares his recipes that are considered by such standards as exotic, including scrambled eggs with mint, red berries and lavender sauce. He notes: "I have a special feeling for the taste of a sautéed rabbit with Provence herbs; or a fresh, cold tomato soup with olive oil and a little bit of lavender. Sea bass with fennel and lavender and lemon is very original and tasty," adding, "Using lavender in pastry allows for more imagination. I love a crème perfumed with lavender to be served with berries; vanilla ice cream or sorbet flavored with lavender; or a brioche with lavender flowers for breakfast." Across the Atlantic, where it was carried by the pilgrims in the 1600s, lavender didn't become a commercial crop until the 1920s. In the modern era, many California wineries have taken to planting lavish gardens of the purple flowering herb, not necessarily for its culinary properties or even its breathtaking early fall display, but primarily because the heady flowers attract bees that also help with pollination in adjacent vineyards. The herb flourishes in wine country and a few vintners have transformed their gardens into commercial ventures. Because of its versatility, it is made into lotions, balms and soaps, generally from the Grosso variety. Randy Lewis, Matanzas Creek Winery's resident chef and culinary director, prefers the Provence variety for culinary lavender packets and grilling sticks, as does a local purveyor, who buys a portion of the Matanzas Creek crop to make lavender syrup. "Lavender is well suited to the estate's climate and well-drained sandy, loamy and stony soils," Lewis explains. "As with winegrowing, drainage is an essential element to the successful production of lavender. Although lavender is inherently suited to the warmer Mediterranean climates, it will also tolerate colder, wetter weather as long as excellent drainage is maintained." Of course, the gastronomic benefits of the plant are his focus. "Lavender is one of the most versatile of all herbs - its flower, seeds, foliage and stems have multiple culinary uses, in combination or alone," he says, adding a basic guideline for home cooks looking to include the herb in their repertoire: "Lavender can be used as a replacement for rosemary in almost any recipe." Matanzas Creek's early summer lavender harvest (as opposed to France's autumn crop) fits beautifully into the California winegrowing cycle, preceding, as it does by a few months, the busy grape harvest. Following cutting, bunches composed of about 250 lavender stems are gathered and hung upside down in a barn on the Matanzas Creek property to air-dry. Fans blow cool air onto the bunches that hang in areas covered by black tarpaulin (the tarp helps to retain the inherent aroma), and as the bunches dry, the potency of culinary lavender increases. Following the drying process, the bunches are shaken against the sides of a large container until the dried flowers and seeds are dislodged and captured. The denuded stalks, called straw, are bound into bundles and, after soaking, are used to infuse lavender flavors into foods being grilled. Every June, Lewis orchestrates and hosts a "Days of Wine and Lavender"event (this year on the 24th) at the winery, to which the public is welcome. Area chefs are invited to cook with Matanzas Creek lavender, wine samples are poured and local artists display their works. Lewis's novel contributions to last year's menu included lavender-infused goat cheese, almonds and melon canapés, and pork chop crepinettes with sweet potato-lavender marshmallow croquettes. These creations may sound tooth-achingly good enough to bypass dessert, but there are three simple ways to include lavender flavor in traditional sweets: steep the flower buds in hot milk, cream or sugar syrup and use the infused liquid in custard, ice cream or sorbet; chop the buds and add them to meringue, cake batter or fruit compote; or grind the buds with sugar until forming a fine powder for use in any baked good, or as a sweetening agent in lemonade or tea. While the herb is often associated with sweets, taking the French example and adding it to savory dishes is quite rewarding. Whether used as a spice rub or in marinades, lavender is especially good with lamb, chicken, quail, pheasant and pork. Its flower spikes can be added to water when boiling potatoes, or chopped buds can be sprinkled on steamed new potatoes. It adds an intriguing, complex taste to red sauces for pasta or pizza. And because of lavender's bright color, sweet perfume and tiny shape, it also makes a lovely garnish for salads, entrées or sprinkled in combination with other blossoms for a striking effect. Speaking of combinations, Lewis advises that Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Syrah all pair particularly well with lavender-inspired dishes. But he also notes that because the herb is so intense - or should be, if fresh - one should employ restraint. "The other specific ingredients in any dish should [ultimately] influence which wine is the most appropriate." Beyond its affinity for wine, perhaps the best reason to add lavender to your herbal palette is the lasting impression it will have on your sensory memory. Consider its effect on Dan Barber, the co-owner/chef of Blue Hill Restaurant in Manhattan and of Blue Hill at Stone Barns, a restaurant, working farm, and educational center in the Hudson Valley in Pocantico Hills, New York, who learned to use it when he was a young chef in France: "When I cook with lavender, I'm reminded of my excursions to the countryside, of farmers' markets and long lunches at a neighbor's home. Lavender grows everywhere in the summer; it's in everyone's home as both decoration and as an ingredient. It perfumes the air. A simple herb like lavender has the subtle power to evoke memories and enhance the pleasures of food." As, of course, does wine. Food Editor Carole Kotkin manages the Ocean Reef Club Cooking School in Key Largo; is a syndicated columnist for Knight-Ridder; is co-author of Mmmmiami; and co-hosts Food & Wine Talk on WDNA FM. French Scrambled Eggs with Mint, Red Berries & Lavender Sauce From Provence Harvest by Louisa Jones; recipe by Chef Jacques Chibois For the Lavender Sauce: 2/3 cup cream 1/4 cup granulated sugar 1/2 teaspoon lavender flowers 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch For the Scrambled Eggs: 8 eggs 1/2 cup granulated sugar 2 teaspoons unsalted butter 1 tablespoon cream 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint For the Presentation: 2 cups strawberries 1 cup raspberries 1 cup blueberries 1 cup blackberries Powdered sugar Lavender flowers or mint leaves Bring cream and sugar to a boil in a saucepan. Remove from heat, add lavender flowers and let infuse for 1 minute; strain immediately. Dissolve cornstarch in 1 tablespoon water, add to lavender cream and bring to a boil while stirring. Let cool, cover and refrigerate. Whisk eggs and sugar together. Melt butter in a small sauté pan, add eggs and cook over low heat, whisking constantly. When thickened, but still very creamy, add cream and mint. Pour eggs in a neat round in the center of each plate. Arrange fruit on top and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Spoon a ribbon of lavender sauce around and decorate with lavender flowers or mint leaves. Serves 4 Seared Scallop with Almond Milk-Cauliflower Purée & Orange-Lavender Reduction From Chef Randy Lewis of Matanzas Creek For the Orange-Lavender Reduction: 1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice 1/4 cup Matanzas Creek Chardonnay 1/4 teaspoon Provence lavender For the Almond Milk-Cauliflower Purée: 1/2 cup almond slivers 21/2 cups hot water 1 small head cauliflower, cut into florets 1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced 1 bay leaf 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt For the Seared Scallops: 1/2 tablespoon grape seed oil 4 scallops Kosher salt to taste 1/2" piece orange zest 1/4 teaspoon Provence lavender 1 tablespoon unsalted butter Combine juice and wine in a stainless steel saucepan. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-high and cook until reduced and thickened, about 20 to 30 minutes. Add lavender. Pour mixture through fine mesh strainer and set aside. Put almonds and half of the water in the blender. Blend for 3 to 5 minutes. With the blender still on, add the rest of the water a little at a time. Blend another 2 minutes. Pour mixture through fine mesh strainer. Squeeze the excess out of the strainer. In a large saucepot, place cauliflower, almond milk, garlic, bay leaf and salt. Cook over medium heat until cauliflower is fork-tender. Strain and remove bay leaf. Transfer cauliflower to a food processor or blender and purée. Pass through a fine mesh strainer and adjust seasoning. Refrigerate. When ready to serve, reheat purée in pot. Season with salt to taste. In a very hot sauté pan, add 1/2 tablespoon grape seed oil and heat until just starting to smoke. Season scallops with kosher salt. Add scallops, sear on 1 side until crust forms. Turn and repeat. Add butter to side of pan and top with orange and lavender. Baste scallops until medium in center of scallop. Place a spoonful of warm cauliflower purée in the center of a warm large plate. Place scallop on top. Spoon sauce around and serve immediately. Serves 4 as an appetizer Asparagus with Lavender, Pine Nuts & Mozzarella Balls From The Lavender Cookbook by Sharon Shipley 2 pounds pencil-thin asparagus 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/4 teaspoon crushed hot pepper flakes 2 garlic cloves, minced 1/2 cup pine nuts 1 teaspoon dried culinary Provence lavender buds, finely ground in a spice grinder 1/2 teaspoon sea salt 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/2 pound fresh bocconcini mozzarella balls, quartered 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice Peel asparagus stalks and trim tough ends. Cook in boiling salted water for 3 minutes. Drain and cover with cold water to stop cooking. Drain and pat dry with paper towels. Warm olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add pepper flakes and garlic; stir for 1 minute. Add pine nuts; sauté for a few minutes, until nuts just begin to color. Add asparagus and lavender; sauté for about 3 minutes, until just heated through. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a platter and top with mozzarella; allow heat from the asparagus to melt the cheese slightly. Sprinkle with lemon zest and drizzle with lemon juice. Serves 6 Provence Fettuccine Nuovi From The Lavender Cookbook by Sharon Shipley 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 tablespoon diced shallot 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 ripe tomatoes, cubed 1 leek, julienned 1/2 cup seedless green grapes 4 shiitake mushrooms, sliced 2 tablespoons Pernod liqueur 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil leaves 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 cup heavy cream 1 cup tomato sauce 1 pound dry basil fettuccine 1 1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese 1/4 cup fresh Italian parsley leaves, chopped Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add shallot and garlic. Cook, stirring, for 3 minutes or until golden. Stir in tomatoes, leek, grapes, mushrooms and Pernod. Using a mortar and pestle, crush together basil and oil. Add to skillet and cook for 5 minutes. Add cream and tomato sauce; cook for 10 minutes or until reduced to 1/3. Cook fettuccine in a large pot of boiling salted water according to package directions. Drain and add to skillet. Stir to coat with sauce. Sprinkle with cheese and parsley. Serves 6 Duck with Lavender and Honey From Chef Michelle Bernstein of Michy's 4 duck breasts Salt and pepper to taste 2 ounces white wine vinegar 2 teaspoons honey 1 teaspoon lavender 4 tablespoons lemon juice 8 ounces duck stock 3 tablespoons butter Preheat oven to 425°. Season duck breasts with salt and pepper. Place a sauté pan on medium heat and add the duck breasts, skin side down. Cook until golden brown, removing fat from the pan at least once and making sure most of the fat renders from duck. Remove duck and place on a roasting rack in oven for about 8 minutes (for medium). Meanwhile, deglaze pan with vinegar, honey, lavender, lemon juice and stock. Let bubble until thickened. Stir in butter and season to taste. Slice duck, fan it out on a warmed serving plate and spoon over sauce. Serves 4 Lavender Pistachio Lamb Chops From Chef Michelle Bernstein of Michy's 2/3 cup pistachios, toasted 2 tablespoons lavender 2 tablespoons mustard seeds 1 rack of lamb Sea salt and black pepper to taste Olive oil 1/2 cup honey, blended 2 tablespoons butter Preheat oven to 400°. In a food processor, pulse pistachios and lavender until all nuts are broken but not powdered. Remove to a bowl and mix in mustard seeds. Season lamb with salt and pepper. Heat a large frying pan on medium high. Add enough oil to coat pan well. Add lamb and sear until golden, turning once. In a small saucepan, warm honey and butter. Dredge rack in honey-butter, then in pistachio mixture. Place on sheet pan and finish cooking in oven for about 15 to 20 minutes. Let rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Serves 2 Lavender Crème Brûlée From Chef Michelle Bernstein of Michy's Butter (for greasing) 4 cups heavy cream 1 tablespoon dried lavender 8 egg yolks 3/4 cup sugar, divided Preheat oven to 300°. Butter 8 6-ounce custard cups and set them in a baking dish. In a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat, add cream and lavender flowers; heat just to a simmer. Remove from heat and allow lavender flowers to infuse with cream for 5 minutes. Strain cream mixture through a fine mesh strainer to remove lavender. In a large bowl, whisk together egg yolks and 1/2 cup sugar until light and creamy. Slowly add strained cream to egg mixture, blending well. Divide custard mixture among custard cups. Bring water for water bath to a light simmer; carefully pour hot water into baking pan to come up to the level of the custard inside the cups. Cover pan with a sheet pan or aluminum foil. Bake 60 minutes or until set around the edges but still loose in the center. Remove from oven and leave in water bath until cooled. Remove cups from water bath and refrigerate at least 2 hours (if longer, wrap each individually with plastic). When ready to serve, sprinkle approximately 2 teaspoons of remaining sugar over each crème brûlée. For best results, use a small, hand-held torch. Hold the torch 4" to 5" from the sugar, maintaining a slow and even motion, until a light brown glaze forms. Makes 8 - JLK

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