While [black Pinot] will no doubt continue to be Oregon’s signature varietal, the gray grape is rapidly gaining traction, and is already the state’s most planted "white" variety.
Pinot Gris gains ground0regon - Washington - CaliforniaNorthwest report by RICHARD KINSSIESCalifornia report by DICK ROSANOOregonians are an independent bunch, going their own way on most notions, be they political or viticultural. They've been that way since Lewis and Clark culminated their two-year walk-about there on the Pacific at the mouth of the Columbia, which was, for Americans of the era, quite literally the end of the world. Ever since, the place just seems to attract those kinds of individualists, including the viticultural pioneers who settled the vineyard lands in that big bowl of a valley formed by the Willamette River in the northwest part of the state. In the early 1960s, a group of free spirits came north from California believing that this cool, damp and unlikely place might well be the holy land for a persnickety, unruly grape called pinot noir. They brought some pinot gris vines with them, too, reasoning that what was good for the noir would be good for the gris. Turns out they were right on both counts. David Lett, co-owner and recently retired winemaker for The Eyrie Vineyards winery in McMinnville, planted the first pinot noir, pinot gris (a clone of pinot noir) and chardonnay in the Willamette Valley in 1965. By 1970, he had released five cases of what he claims to have been the first varietally labeled Pinot Gris in the New World. After nearly 40 years, no one has yet disputed him. "It was just a hunch," he says with understatement about his choice of grapes, "but, by golly, they worked - big time."
Success didn't come quickly, though. It took decades before everyone figured out where and how to grow pinot noir, make consistently high-quality wines and convince the wine world that Oregon wines were worth their relative high prices. For years, Lett and two other mavericks, David Adelsheim of Adelsheim Vineyards and Dick Ponzi of Ponzi Vineyards, were fixtures on the wine dinner circuit, touting their Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. "We billed ourselves as 'two Daves and a Dick' and we had good success," Lett recalls. Yet much of the enthusiasm they encountered was for Pinot Noir, not Pinot Gris.
Throughout most of the 1990s, chardonnay was the white grape to beat. As a competitor, pinot gris was barely on the radar here. And the state's lack of success with chardonnay, a seeming slam-dunk considering its success with pinot noir, had wine pundits pronouncing Oregon a one-grape wonder - an aspersion that still stirs emotions in the Willamette. Things began to change in the late 1990s. The Italians struck gold with their light, fresh Pinot Grigios ("grigio" is gray in Italian, "gris" in French) and couldn't seem to make enough of it to slake the thirst of the American wine drinker. Soon, consumers began exploring domestic Pinot Gris and discovered the more "serious" versions from northern Oregon.
Pinot gris has since benefited from all of the obsessiveness that Oregon producers lavished on cultivating pinot noir. Consequently, few regions in the world have a better Research & Development record on pinot gris than Oregon's Willamette Valley. So unlike other places that are new to the grape and are trying to figure out how to get in on the action, Oregon had virtually no learning curve.
In the 1990s, Merlot burst onto the scene, capturing the attention of consumers and elbowing out much of the red wine competition. Yet the universe continued to converge in favor of Oregon winegrowers. By 2004, thanks in part to being disparaged in the movie Sideways, Merlot had lost its momentum. A good definition of success is that point in time when preparation and opportunity intersect, and it looked like pinot noir, the grape touted in the movie, was going to be the next American wine idol.
Certainly pinot noir's fortunes have soared over the past few years, especially in northern Oregon. Yet, because it thrives in such narrowly defined viticultural zones, and because it is such a high-maintenance grape - both in the vineyard and in the cellar - quality pinot noir still remains in short supply, and prices are about as reasonable as a barrel of crude. As price and demand remain high for Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris' star continues to rise with astonishing trajectory, putting Oregon producers in a prime position. Not only is Pinot Gris outselling all other whites except the ubiquitous Chardonnay, it is also outpacing many reds as well. Pinot gris is now the second-most important grape in Oregon behind pinot noir, and it is the variety upon which some wineries are hanging their hats.
While Eyrie Vineyards innovated pinot gris in Oregon, King Estate reigns over the variety now. Located just outside the southern border of the Willamette Valley, King Estate is the region's showcase winery and has made Pinot Gris its specialty. With 130,000 cases released each year, it is the largest single producer of Pinot Gris in the country; it has 314 acres planted to pinot gris and less than half of that (143 acres) to pinot noir.
Director of winemaking John Albin says King Estate, which was established in 1991, was originally producing two-thirds reds and one-third whites. As Pinot Gris continues to gain popularity, that ratio is now flipped. But one could be forgiven for wondering why any winery, given the choice, would concentrate on whites when reds not only get the attention of the press and the respect of consumers, but also yield premium prices as well. "Return on investment is very good with Pinot Gris," Albin says, pointing out that his style of wine does not rely on expensive oak barrels. He also notes that his Pinot Gris can be released in July of the year following harvest, while reds need about two years.
Chehalem winery in Newberg in the Willamette Valley is one of the region's most respected producers of Pinot Noir, yet like King Estate, it, too, places more emphasis on whites, which make up nearly 60 percent of an annual production dominated by Pinot Gris with about 4,000 cases. Harry Peterson-Nedry, Chehalem founder and winemaker, believes more Oregon wineries should concentrate on whites. "It's one of my pet peeves," he says. "The Willamette is just as great a place for white wines as it is for reds, but most of these new wineries only want to make red wines." Although Peterson-Nedry and Albin share an intense passion for Pinot Gris, and both produce some of the best versions anywhere, each has a different approach to the grape.
While pinot gris may be freed of the constraints of time and oak, Peterson-Nedry says top-quality pinot gris requires the same draconian vineyard practices as those imposed on pinot noir, especially regarding very low yields. Industry statistics seem to support his claims. While the notoriously stingy pinot noir averages only 2.5 tons per acre in Oregon, pinot gris averages about 3.35 tons per acre. Compare this to top-quality cabernet from Washington or California, for example, which can yield 4 to 5 tons per acre, and riesling, which can supply more than 5 tons per acre. "This is the reason for the intensity of Oregon Pinot Gris," Peterson-Nedry insists. But this scenario can also keep the cost of grapes high and limit the amount grown in this small viticultural area. If this is the case, then high-quality Willamette Valley Pinot Gris could become as exclusive - and expensive - as the local Pinot Noir.
Albin counters that in his experience pinot gris is not as sensitive to crop load as pinot noir. "The answer is not to have a reduced crop, but a balanced crop," he contends. "You can get 4 to 4.5 tons per acre with dense plantings." Both agree that northern Oregon's cool climate is key to its special style of Pinot Gris. Too much heat causes the grapes to overripen, leading to excessive alcohol levels and low acidity, a mortal sin in the eyes of Peterson-Nedry. According to Albin, hotter climate pinot gris will lose its citrus and tropical character in favor of ripe or baked apple and very ripe Bartlett pear.
Stylistically, Oregon Pinot Gris occupy a unique place - somewhere between the charmingly frivolous northern Italian Pinot Grigios and the full-bodied, full-flavored, serious Alsatian bottlings. In freshness and liveliness, Oregon's version may even show a kinship to Austria's white wines. Peterson-Nedry describes the Oregon Pinot Gris style as "effusive with good acidity and very fresh white fruit flavors like apples and especially pears," adding, "and white flowers like orange blossom and even jasmine." >
The Elk Cove Vineyards winery in the Willamette Valley is one of the region's top producers of Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. Adam Campbell, second generation winemaker at his family-owned winery, believes the best Oregon Pinot Gris will show a rich mouth-feel, and also a crispness on the palate and a freshness of the fruit that can display lots of citrus characteristics.
Because of its sheer numbers in the marketplace, King Estate essentially defines the style of northwest Pinot Gris. John Albin describes wines with "firm acidity and lots of tropical fruit, honeysuckle and cantaloupe."
David Lett's son Jason, who took over as winemaker at The Eyrie Vineyards winery in 2005, shares his father's zeal for Pinots. He thinks that the real potential and a definitive style for Oregon Pinot Gris is still unrealized, noting that there is a predominance of "quaffable" styles available.
In the cellar, individual winemakers use specific methods to hone their house styles, which show how versatile the grape can be. Most winemakers agree that Pinot Gris doesn't need new French oak and, in fact, are usually more attractive without it.
At King Estate, Albin takes a fairly straightforward approach to making pinot gris, using only stainless steel tanks for fermenting his grapes, which typically helps retain freshness and fruitiness in white wines.
Peterson-Nedry uses stainless steel for his regular bottling of Pinot Gris, but employs neutral oak barrels to ferment his reserve. He says it allows him to employ many different yeast cultures, which increase the complexity of the wine and result in a wine with more heft on the palate and more intense fruit aromatics.
Albin prefers to keep it simple. "I've tried old oak for fermenting and for aging and it just didn't fit into the style I was going for," he says. "I don't want anything to distract me from the fruit." Both agree, however, that keeping the wine on its lees for a period of time after fermentation improves its richness and complexity.
Jason Lett relies on stainless steel for his pinot gris, but he plans to diverge from that regimen to produce a wine that will be a tribute to his father and the contributions he made to Oregon Pinot Gris. To that end, he plans to ferment the juice in neutral oak barrels and then give the wine a further 16 months in neutral oak.
Perhaps the most appealing aspect of Pinot Gris is its ability to pair with food. Besides Riesling, it may be the most food-friendly grape there is on the planet. Peterson-Nedry says that stainless steel-fermented Pinot Gris works best with spicy foods and seafood, especially shellfish, while his barrel-fermented version goes better with richer foods like pork and salmon. There are now about 2,600 acres of pinot gris planted in Oregon, surpassed only by the 9,900 acres of pinot noir; the next most planted grape, chardonnay, is a distant third with 972 acres.
Albin believes that the future is strong for Oregon pinot gris and thinks there is still room for improvement. He says that, until recently, many producers treated the grape as a commodity for cash flow, but that way of thinking is changing. He also contends that pinot gris, like pinot noir, reflects the character of the soil more than most varieties, raising the likelihood of vineyard-designated wines down the road. "In the future, quality will be in the terroir," Jason Lett agrees, further noting that he would not be surprised to see single vineyard Pinot Gris sometime soon.
Peterson-Nedry anticipates a bright future for pinot gris in Oregon. Yet in talking with him you get the sense that he may not be as bullish on the grape as others in the region. "Pinot gris has its niche just like pinot noir," he says, "but the growth period for pinot gris may be peaking." He cites the introduction of the Dijon chardonnay clone in Oregon, which has revolutionized the quality of those wines in the region. He also thinks that global climate change could alter how grapes perform in northern Oregon, as well. And, of course, the introduction of other grapes - including grüner veltliner - could change things, too.
Jason Lett believes the grape is still much under appreciated and admits that he has been as guilty as anyone in this regard, especially on the aging potential of the wine. "Dad always put Pinot Gris in the wine library and I always wondered why," he says. "[I thought] we could be selling that wine; and everyone knows they don't age; they'll just go bad." But then a few years ago, he got to try bottles of the 1994 and 1991. "The '94 was still delicate," he recalls, "and the '91 was just fabulous! I had to reassess the way I thought about pinot gris after that," he admits.
Lett explains that back in the Sixties there were only four pinot gris vines in the country and they were at UC-Davis. "Dad was able to get 160 cuttings from those four vines," he explains, "and he planted four rows with them. They were the first pinot gris plantings in Oregon," he says, "and that's going to be the fruit I'll use for my Reserve Pinot Gris."
As evidence of his father's free-thinking spirit, he quotes the bumper sticker on his father's car. It reads "Fight Commonism."
An even better one might read: "I told you so."
Washington Pinot Gris poised for expansion
At first glance, it appears that Oregon has cornered Northwest pinot gris production. It has five times the pinot gris under vine than does Washington: some 2,600 acres versus 500. Growers in Oregon can fetch almost $1,400 per ton for their pinot gris grapes, while Washington's get $871, a discrepancy that indicates greater demand for the former. And the Oregonians have been at it longer, giving them a leg up in the marketplace. Washington is relatively hot, too, which is why Oregon, on the other hand, is perfect for pinot noir. So don't the two pinots have the same cool-climate requirements? Not necessarily; a closer look proves revelatory.
White wines out-produce reds in Washington 53 percent to 47 percent, which is on par with national consumer trends according to industry statistics, showing that Washington is on top of the wine industry's fashion curve. While 500 acres might not seem like much, it represents about a quarter of a million cases annually. The fact that the popularity of Pinot Gris is flourishing has not been lost on the state's mightiest producers.
Columbia Crest and Chateau Ste. Michelle, the state's largest and second-largest wineries, respectively, together produce more than half of all the Pinot Gris in Washington, and they are strongly committed to expanding production. Hogue Cellars, which is another of the big players, already produces about 50,000 cases of Pinot Gris (calling it Grigio) annually, making it one of the largest producers in the state. And Co Dinn, director of winemaking at Hogue, says that Washington is just getting started.
"We can scale it much larger than they can," he says, referring to northern Oregon's limited vineyard area and the Oregonian propensity for small-production wines. Washington, on the other hand, has vast vineyard areas that have yet to be exploited. And while Washington has not shown much promise with pinot noir, Dinn points out that it does very well with other cool-climate grapes such as riesling. "We just have to find the cooler sites, like Yakima and the higher elevations," he observes. Chelan is another area that has been earning its chops recently by producing some fairly impressive wines from cool-climate grapes such as riesling, pinot noir and pinot gris. The promising but not yet AVA-designated region is located on the east side of Lake Chelan and gets its temperate climate from the lake waters. Chelan now boasts about eight wineries, including some standouts such as Tsillan and Vin du Lac.
Stylistically, Washington's Pinot Gris seem to be more diverse than those from Oregon. Dinn isn't surprised. "As for style, I think the New World is still trying to find itself," he says, including his brand's efforts. "At Hogue, we work in isolation," he explains. "We're not trying to emulate anyone, we're just trying to make the best wine we can from the fruit our vineyards give us." He believes that Washington Pinot Gris can show lots of fresh stone fruit, grapefruit and even a slight herbal character.
Hogue has been producing Pinot Gris since 1998, but the first few years weren't very successful, according to Dinn. Then in 2001, the decision was made to change the name on the label from Pinot Gris to Pinot Grigio and sales took off. "It's been a good run," Dinn says, "and we're going to continue to grow as fast as our sources can provide us with good fruit."
Cherry-picking California Pinot Grigio
Pinot Grigio is the most imported Italian white wine in America, with the ubiquitous Santa Margherita bottling alone accounting for 635,000 cases purchased annually. Its commercial potential in California eclipses other Italian whites like malvasia and trebbiano, which are almost always employed as blending components. While Oregon and Washington wineries use the French pinot gris moniker (Burgundians actually use pinot beurot), most California producers have opted, largely for marketing reasons, for the Italian name.
The antithesis of a heavy-handed, oaky California Chardonnay, California Pinot Grigio is reliably light, zesty and spicy. At high-acid levels, it possesses a certain tanginess that makes it very flattering with foods that require the lift and briskness of a spry white; at lower levels, it is best as an apéritif.
Stevenot winemaker Kate MacDonald observes that Americans' white wine palate is evolving. "I [am] surprised by how many people [in the tasting room] do not want to even taste the Chardonnay."
One of most appreciated attributes of Pinot Grigio, no matter its region of origin, is its tantalizing acidity. Yet preserving its natural brightness from the vine to the wine poses a challenge. The fruit, which begins its life high in acidity, can lose it quickly in the closing stages of ripening. To keep the wine viable, the trick is to harvest when maturity is optimized, when the sugar is sufficient for fermentation and before the acidity slips too low.
"There is a very small window for picking perfectly balanced fruit," MacDonald notes. "I've seen the acid drop out overnight."
California's signature sunshine is partially to blame. Long, bright days are ideal for bringing difficult red grapes, such as pinot noir, to maturity, but the same "sun days" can drive acids down.
This suggests that cooler climates, like Oregon's, are more ideal, but there are pockets in California that preserve the delicate aromas and flavors of pinot grigio without sacrificing its essential character.
Coastally influenced regions have the distinct advantage. Grapes for Pietra Santa's Amore Pinot Grigio, for example, are grown high up on a terraced hillside in the Cienega Valley near Monterey Bay. The finished wine displays a fresh, vivacious quality ensured by its clean, crisp acidity.
While terroir is important, there is nonetheless some disagreement on just how important it is for pinot grigio as compared to the role played solely by soil. Chris Phelps, winemaker for Napa Valley's Swanson Vineyards, describes how Oakville fruit provides breadth and body for his Swanson Pinot Grigio, while cool-climate vineyards in Oak Knoll and Carneros insert minerality, stone fruit and a hint of spice.
Clos du Bois's Erik Olson asserts, "Cool evenings are the key to preserving pinot grigio's acidity and vibrancy. We source pinot grigio predominantly from cooler coastal growing areas."
With earlier harvests and cooler climates come lower alcohols, as well. In contrast to some swashbuckling California Chardonnays, the state's Pinot Grigios rarely top 13.5 percent alcohol.
As with any variety, what happens in the cellar can contribute to preserving pinot grigio's brightness and acidity. Cold fermentation in stainless steel tanks is now standard procedure. Phelps actually inherited a winemaking regimen in which the Swanson Pinot Grigios had been barrel fermented, but within two years of his 2003 arrival, he had converted the process to 100-percent stainless fermentation.
Some Pinot Grigios, such as those of Stevenot, Swanson and Robert Mondavi, are aged briefly on the lees with gentle stirring to enhance textures and impart hints of honeysuckle and hazelnut.
While vinification techniques can radically influence an outcome, those who make Pinot Grigio in California say this wine, more than most, is made in the vineyard. It's not quite as fickle as pinot noir, though, and not as featureless as just-picked chardonnay.
"Some grapes are forgiving, but not pinot grigio," observes Stevenot's MacDonald. "It's a labor of love that's well worth the effort if you hit the sweet spot."
Some aesthetes may question the worth of a bright, pleasantly fruity, forward white wine like Pinot Grigio, yet it's easy-going and eminently quaffable.
Which, most days, is all we really want, right?
Contributing Editor Richard Kinssies is the wine columnist for the Seattle Post-Intelligencer, the director of the Seattle Wine School and owner of the Wine Outlet in Seattle.
Contributing Editor Dick Rosano is a Washington, D.C.-based wine critic and author of Wine Heritage: The Story of Italian American Vintners.
Tasting BAR
The Northwest bottlings that follow were tasted blind by author Richard Kinssies and were scored on the BuyLine rating system.
Bethel Heights Vineyard, 2007 Pinot Gris, Oregon - $17: Aromas of mango and mixed tropical fruit. Flavors marked by a core of crisp acidity wrapped around luscious tropical fruit flavors and hints of citrus zest and minerals. Score: 89
Blue Pirate, 2007 Pinot Gris, Oregon - $20: Big and soft with plush flavors of pineapple and pear accented by the sweetness of ripe peach. Score: 88
Chehalem, 2007 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley - $19: Crisp, fresh and lively. Medium bodied with fragrances and flavors of pear, white peach, melon, blossoms and the smallest touch of honey. Score: 89
Chehalem, 2007 Pinot Gris Reserve, Willamette Valley - $24: Much drier than the regular bottling and fuller in body. The mouth-feel is soft, yet crisp, and the flavors, reminiscent of pear and tropical fruit, linger for minutes after swallowing. Score: 91
The Eyrie Vineyards, 2006 Pinot Gris, Oregon - $18: Full bodied and firmly structured with a fine balance of acid and fruit. Floral aromas of pear and peach. Luscious mouth-feel with complex, long-lasting flavors of pear, melon and tropical fruit mix with a distinctive mineral note. Score: 91
Elk Cove Vineyards, 2007 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley - $19: Full and rich, with a plush, soft mouth-feel. Redolent aromas of honeysuckle and ripe, sweet tropical fruit, and flavors drenched with sweet mango, pineapple and citrus. Score: 90
Hogue Cellars, 2007 Pinot Grigio, Columbia Valley - $9: Medium bodied, brisk and fresh; bursting with fresh fruit aromas and flavors of melon, mixed tropical fruit, flowers and citrus. Surprisingly complex and long on the palate and finish. Score: 88
King Estate, 2007 Pinot Gris, Oregon - $17: Medium bodied with crisp acidity and straightforward flavors of melon and pear with underlying flavors of citrus, especially orange and grapefruit. Score: 89
King Estate, 2006 Domaine Pinot Gris, Oregon - $24: Complex and concentrated aromas of white blossoms, pear and citrus. Long, complex flavors of citrus, pear, tropical fruit and hints of minerals. Score: 91
Mary Hill Winery, 2007 Pinot Gris, Washington - $15: Fairly full figured with ripe stone fruit aromas and intense, fresh and slightly sweet tropical flavors. Score: 89
Montinore, 2006 Pinot Gris, Oregon - $15: Medium to full bodied with lush aromas and flavors of melon, peach and pear; a suggestion of sweetness is balanced by just the right amount of tart acidity. Score: 89
Tsillan Cellars, 2007 Pinot Gris, Washington - $16: Floral nose with lush melon, citrus and tropical flavors along with a hint of sweetness on the middle palate and finish. Score: 88
Vin Du Lac, 2007 Pinot Gris, Washington - $16: Light in body with soft texture and simple, straightforward flavors of melon and pear. Score: 86
Van Duzer, 2006 Pinot Gris, Oregon - $17: Enticing nose of apple blossom and melon. Dry yet plump fruit flavors evocative of peach, pear and pineapple. Score: 89
The California bottlings that follow were tasted blind by co-author Dick Rosano and were scored on the BuyLine rating system.
Blackstone, 2007 Pinot Grigio, California - $12: Floral aromas with secondary scents of green apple and pear. Tingling acidity highlights bright flavors of green apple and lemon. Bright, fresh and superbly crafted. Score: 88
Estancia, 2006 Pinot Grigio, California - $12: Very lightly effervescent with like scents and flavors of lemon and pineapple. Score: 87
Francis Ford Coppola, 2007 Bianco Pinot Grigio, California - $11: Floral and fruity aromas. Deeper flavors than many Pinot Grigios; rich ripe apple and pear notes; soft acidity, broad palate impression. Score: 86
Laird Family Estate, 2007 Pinot Grigio, Carneros - $18: Bright aromas of pineapple and green apple. Loads of smooth fruit offer like flavors together with vibrant acidity. Score: 89
Luna, 2006 Pinot Grigio, Napa County - $20: Slow-opening bouquet of white peach and a wisp of nectarine. Complex flavors of white fruit, peach and apple crafted in a soft, very subtle style. Score: 86
Montevina, 2007 Pinot Grigio, California - $8: Subtle yet fruity nose, easy-quaffing flavors of apple, pineapple and lemon. Score: 86
Montevina, 2007 Terra d'Oro Pinot Grigio, Santa Barbara County - $15: Near-white in hue. Enticing scents of pineapple and green apple. Bright flavors of green apple, lemon and lime with a touch of mineral. Score: 88
Pietra Santa, 2007 Amore Pinot Grigio, Cienega Valley - $24: Delicate aromas of peach and apricot. Apricot and peach repeat on the rich, smooth palate together with apple and a pleasing light citrus accent. Score: 88
Stevenot, 2007 Pinot Grigio, California - $14: Scents of honey, hazelnut and vanilla. Flavors of melon, honey and vanilla threaded together by lemon zest. Score: 89
Swanson, 2006 Pinot Grigio, Napa Valley - $20: Aromas of white peach and apple. Expansive flavors of peach, apple and grapefruit. Zesty and fruit forward. Score: 87
