Wine Reviews from Wine News
tasters' choice selections
100 S. Salon, 1997 Brut
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Lightly burnished yellow-gold hue with a halo-like mousse. Lovely aged aromas of citrus, mineral and brioche. Citrus flavors of grapefruit and lemon peel laced with char and chalk. Lively, youthful finish embodies a perfectly dry, acidic brut style. With every release, this quintessential Blanc de Blancs sets the standard for chardonnay-based Champagne. $500 / 785 cases imported
98 Cuvée William Deutz, 1999 Brut
Aÿ
Glistening silver-gold hue with fine, pinpoint bubbles. Aromas of freshly baked bread with uplifting peach and sweet cream accents. Rich, layered flavors of clove, ginger, praline, cinnamon and apple butter. A well-structured, multi-flavored, exotic wine that offers a slight mintiness in the lingering finish. $167 / 200 cases imported
97 Taittinger, 1998 Comtes de Champagne
Blanc de Blancs, Reims
Shimmering pale gold hue with pinpoint bubbles. Lovely aromas of citrus, hazelnut, brioche and Golden Delicious apple. The very essence of elegance with crisp acidity nicely balanced by warm fruit impressions of apple, together with brioche, white flowers and honey. Tart, crisp finish offers plenty of balance and finesse in an absolutely lovely wine. $200 / 2,200 cases imported
96 Pol Roger, 2000 Brut Rosé
Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Épernay
Deep, luminescent, absolutely gorgeous rose hue. Redolent bouquet of red fruit, distinct strawberry scents and an appealing whiff of citrus. Incredible balance of acidity and fruit on the palate with vanilla and lime expanding in the long, fruit-laden finish. Medium in weight and wonderfully elegant. A classic, stunning rosé. $105 / 300 cases imported
Best Value Selections Gloria Ferrer, 2005 Blanc de Blancs 93 Carneros Straw-yellow hue with an active stream of very fine bubbles. Distinct bakery shop bouquet of freshly baked bread together with sweet lime impressions. Foamy entry with luscious flavors of toasty grain, light malt, balancing creamy citrus and apple-laced acidity. Pleasant close exhibits both finesse and balance with green apple and tart, lemon/lime characteristics. $24 / 7,544 cases 90 Elyssia, NV Brut Gran Cuvée
Sant Sadurni d’ Anoia, Spain
Pale gold hue with persistent, driving bubbles. Forward lemon drop and chalk aromas with a hint of seashore. Ripe flavors of pear and apple brightened by fresh, youthful acidity. Dry, crisp finish with notes of bread dough and ginger. $18 / 667 cases imported
90 J Vineyards, NV Brut Cuvée 20
Russian River Valley
Pale yellow-gold hue with very active bubbles. Appealing scents of Golden Delicious apple, white peach and brioche. Foamy flavors of peach and apple. Hints of almond and nutmeg in the juicy close. $20 / 20,000 cases
89 Korbel, NV Brut
Organically Grown, California
Moderate straw-yellow hue with a steady bead. Tempting aromas of lemon curd and light white bread dough. Creamy mouth-feel with a touch of toast accompanied by pleasant minerality. Light green apple notes round out a cleansing close. $16 / 750,000 cases
California
Domaine Carneros
93 Domaine Carneros, 2005 Brut
Napa Valley
Light gold-bronze hue with a steady stream of fine bubbles. Attractive, melded bouquet of lemon curd, white bread and golden raisin. Creamy, frothy entry blossoms with cherry, pear and a perfect balance of minerality and acidity. Tart pear and peach emerge in the luxurious close. $26
94 Domaine Carneros, 2003 Le Rêve
Napa Valley
Light straw-yellow hue with a very active stream of tiny bubbles. Initial foxy scents blow off to reveal delicate lemon and grapefruit aromas. Expressive lemon peel, lime zest and vanilla expressions coat the palate. Sharp green apple notes in a close that showcases creamy peach with a citrus-tinged appeal. $85
90 Domaine Carneros, NV Rosé de Pompadour
Napa Valley
Shimmery salmon hue with a persistent bead. Pretty nose of rose petal and Baker’s chocolate. Pleasant and delicate floral expressions frame red fruit and well-integrated lemon/lime acidity. Sweet berry accents in a finish that also offer plenty of finesse and minerality. $36
Domaine Chandon
90 Chandon, NV Brut Classic
California
Light straw-yellow hue with an active stream of effervescence. Scents of vanilla, plum, malt and cherry. Very creamy entry with a nice meld of lemon and red fruit highlights. Notable integration of sweet/sour citrus with a pleasant backing of minerality. $22
88 Chandon, étoile Brut
Sur lees aged 2003, Sonoma/Napa
Delicate white-gold hue with a very active stream of fine bubbles. Campfire-like scents with whiffs of rhubarb and rose petal. Creamy-textured flavors of white toast and vanilla nuanced with tangy white grapefruit and oak. Lemon-accented close. $40
88 Chandon, NV Blanc de Noirs
California
Very light, rose-gold hue with a persistent bead. Bright cherry nose with hints of lemon and lime. Red fruit and cherry flavors echo on the frothy palate, together with sweet peach nectar grace notes. Tart citrus and floral aspects ring in a cleansing close. $22
89 Chandon, NV Rosé
California
Deep salmon hue with notable effervescence. Aromas of roasted nut, rose petal and light floral fragrances. Enticing, oak-laced flavors of briary berry. Youthful complex finish marked by cherry juice, leather and tart lemon drop notes. $22
86 Chandon, étoile Rosé
Napa/Sonoma
Moderate silver-gold hue with a steady stream of small bubbles. Unusual nose of peach, mint and grapefruit. Very sweet entry of creamy vanilla, peach and pear nectar. Wedding cake frosting element drives the sugar-sweet close. $50
89 Chandon, NV Extra-Dry Riche
California
Pale copper hue with moderate effervescence. Scents of charred wood, strawberry and briar. Creamy texture on entry with rich berry and cherry imbued with an earthy appeal. Tangy red fruit surfaces on a satisfying close supported by tart lime acids. $22
Gloria Ferrer
92 Gloria Ferrer, NV Va de Vi
Ultra Cuvée, Sonoma County
Pretty gold hue with very small, active bubbles. Intriguing scents of pear nectar, peach juice and light floral fragrances. Creamy entry with a nice spiciness that accents continuing pear, vanilla and a touch of red fruit. Tangy finish marked by minerality and sweet citrus acidity. $22
88 Gloria Ferrer, NV Brut
Sonoma County
Bronze-gold hue with very active effervescence. White bread, vanilla and light grain aromas. Soft, melded palate of buttered bread and ginger ale flavors complemented by crisp acids. Notes of baked apple and creamy lemon accent the close. $20
87 Gloria Ferrer, NV Blanc de Noirs
Carneros
Light copper hue with notable effervescence that forms a light mousse. Scents of berry and cherry with just a wisp of oak. Tangy entry with a crispness that highlights grapefruit and sweet/sour lime components. Tart close driven by youthful acids showcases green apple and citrus nuances. $20
91 Gloria Ferrer, 2002 Brut
Royal Cuvée, Carneros
Moderate straw-yellow hue with extremely active pinpoint bubbles. Pretty scents of beer malt and bread dough with a light whiff of toasted grain. Delicate flavors of creamy lemon and gardenia complement tart cherry fruit and display ample finesse. Tart/tangy richness in the close with a pleasant balance of fruit, a touch of anise and very crisp acidity. $35
94 Gloria Ferrer, 1998 Carneros Cuvée
Carneros
White-gold hue with a very notable, effervescent stream of active bubbles. Aromatic bouquet of peach and buttered white bread with light malt scents. Creamy, elegant entry with layers of delicious flavors that highlight vanilla, Brazil nut, pear and red apple fruit wrapped around an extraordinary creamy core. Stone fruit shines in the finish with continuing apple-laced acidity that begs for another sip from this late-disgorged gem. $50
87 Gloria Ferrer, 2006 Brut Rosé
Carneros
Light salmon hue with moderate activity. Shy nose of lemon and cherry. Sweet berry notes on palate with nuances of cherry pie and creamy citrus. Tart close driven by youthful, pink grapefruit-accented acidity. $42
Iron Horse
88 Iron Horse, 2006 Wedding Cuvée
Green Valley, Russian River Valley
Light rose-gold hue with active bubbles. Bright aromas of Granny Smith apple and fresh hay. Juicy flavors of lemon and pink grapefruit. A touch of slate frames the lemony close. $38
91 Iron Horse, 2004 Russian Cuvée
Green Valley, Russian River Valley
Pale yellow hue with pinpoint bubbles. Complex scents of lemon, white peach and crème brulée with undertones of malt and sherry. Crisp acidity and juicy flavors of white grapefruit and acacia. Cleansing acidity in the lemon-driven close. $33
91 Iron Horse, 2004 Classic Brut
Green Valley, Russian River Valley
Pale silver-green hue with lively bubbles. Inviting scents of lemon, lime and buttered toast. Juicy flavors of lemon crème and Granny Smith apple. Hints of fino sherry surface in the crisp close. $33
92 Iron Horse, 2002 Brut LD
Green Valley, Russian River Valley
Pale lemon hue with active bubbles. Complex scents of strawberry, white peach and brioche. Juicy flavors of quince and lemon custard. Marzipan and green pineapple notes emerge in the creamy close. $85
86 Iron Horse, 2005 Brut Rosé
Green Valley, Russian River Valley
Blazing rose hue with lively bubbles. Powerful scents of rhubarb, wild cherry and red plum with a whiff of brown sugar. Sweet flavors of red raspberry and maple. Continued impressions of red raspberry joined by plum in the sweet close. $50
J Vineyards
92 J Vineyards, NV Brut Rosé
Russian River Valley
Pale copper hue with very tiny bubbles. Enticing scents of red raspberry and white peach. Creamy acidity and juicy flavors of Red Delicious apple and wild cherry. Apple-driven close made opulent by hints of brioche and honey. $35
Korbel
87 Korbel, NV Brut
California
Burnished brass hue with a steady, active bead. Aromas of fresh-sliced pear and apple. Pear flavors resonate on the palate together with fresh, cleansing acidity and a note of citrus peel that balances the lingering sweetness. $12
87 Korbel, NV Chardonnay
California
Pale gold hue with a lively, persistent bead. Sweet aromas of grilled pineapple with hints of chalk and yeast. A rather sweet entry with a vanilla extract-like richness and a note of praline. Round, supple finish with a lick of ginger. $12
86 Korbel, NV Blanc de Noirs
California
Pale brass hue with a tint of pink with driving, pinpoint bubbles and a frothy mousse. Light aromas of chalk and bread dough with a whiff of brine. Round and frothy with flavors of strawberry and vanilla. Apple and caramel join the mélange in the finish along with balancing mineral accents. $12
87 Korbel, 2006 Natural
Russian River
Light gold-bronze hue with moderate effervescence. Nose of anise, vanilla and light Christmas spice. Lighter in the mouth than the nose suggests with floral and vanilla frosting flavors. Tartness gains momentum in the close with a splash of lemon/lime acidity. $16
87 Korbel, NV Brut Rosé
California
Pale rose petal hue with an active stream of bubbles. Pretty, sweet nose of cherry juice and apricot. Creamy texture on the palate with flavors of sweet peach and pear nectar highlights. Soft, frothy close framed by strawberry and rich, sweet vanilla notes. $12
Mumm Napa
87 Mumm Napa, NV Brut Prestige
Napa Valley
Pale citrine hue with moderate bubbles. Reserved bouquet of baked apple. Sweet flavors of pear and peach. Hints of marzipan in the brief close. $20
86 Mumm Napa, NV Cuvée M
Napa Valley
Pale yellow hue with a delicate mousse. Fresh scents of grapefruit and ginger. Sugary flavors of pear and apple cider. A touch of Graham cracker marks the moderate close. $20
90 Mumm Napa, Brut Reserve
Napa Valley
Pale straw hue with fine bubbles. Fresh scents of lemon, lime and slate. Juicy flavors of Granny Smith apple and green pineapple. Racy acidity and continued apple and mineral notes accent the lingering close. $30
92 Mumm Napa, 2001 DVX
Napa Valley
Bright gold hue with tiny bubbles. Classic aromas of yeast, mineral and lemon with wisps of toasted grain. Juicy, mouthwatering flavors of lemon and white grapefruit. Crisp acidity and notes of almond and sourdough flesh out the lemony close. $55
88 Mumm Napa, NV Brut Rosé
Napa Valley
Light apricot hue with a delicate mousse. Crisp scents of lemon and white peach. Racy acidity and juicy flavors of red raspberry and wild cherry. Hints of tangerine emerge in the close. $24
Roederer Estate
90 Roederer Estate, Multi-Vintage Brut
Estate Bottled, Anderson Valley
Pale gold hue with a driving bead and a halo-like mousse. Seashore aromas laced with sweet vanilla and chalk. Tart grapefruit and pear flavors with notes of banana peel, chalk and lively acidity. Classic dry, brut style with a steely-crisp finish. $23
90 Roederer Estate, Multi-Vintage Brut Rosé
Estate Bottled, Anderson Valley
Copper hue with a frothy mousse. Chalky, mineral-laden bouquet with a whiff of citrus peel. Sweet entry with flavors of vanilla, orange zest and flint. Dry, well-balanced finish imparts a controlled, lingering sweetness. $27
89 Roederer Estate, L’ Ermitage Brut Rosé
Estate Bottled, Anderson Valley
Pale copper hue with an active bead. Shy mineral aromas followed by subtle strawberry and cranberry scents. Tart flavors of cranberry and red apple imbued with racy, crisp acidity. Youthful, dry finish with a hint of white pepper. $70
Scharffenberger 91 Scharffenberger, NV Brut Rosé
Mendocino County
Light orange-salmon hue with a very persistent stream of fine bubbles. Pretty scents of lemon peel, vanilla frosting and mocha. Lush flavors of orange, grapefruit and espresso. Forward cherry fruit marks the finish together with well-integrated orange citrus acidity. $23
Washington
86 Domaine Ste. Michelle, NV Brut
Columbia Valley, Washington
Pale gold hue with a medium bead. Flinty, wet stone aromas. Forward, ripe honeydew melon flavors with a ginger ale-like aspect. Cotton-candy sweetness punctuates the finish. $12
87 Domaine Ste. Michelle, NV Blanc de Blancs
Columbia Valley, Washington
Pale white-gold hue with steady bubbles. Mixed aromas of flint, chalk and brine. Lively, smoky flavors with prominent sweet ginger and grapefruit notes. A drying, mineral-like nuance balances the finish. $12
88 Domaine Ste. Michelle, NV Blanc de Noirs
Columbia Valley, Washington
Copper-pink hue with a frothy mousse. Forward sweet aromas with a balancing earthy scent. Rich and spicy with candied orange and vanilla flavors followed by a peppery nuance. Spritzy finish imbued with a spicy quality. $12
France
Bellefon
86 Bellefon, NV Brut
Cuvée de Moines, Épernay
Bright straw-yellow hue with an active stream of medium bubbles. Bouquet offers pretty floral and white peach aromas. A bit diffuse on the palate with soft flavors of yellow and orange fruit. This crémant has lower pressure than normal with a light, creamy texture and a short finish. $50
86 Bellefon, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Cuvée de Moines, Épernay
Subtle yellow-gold hue with fine bubbles. Soft red apple aromas carry over to the palate, which offers rather unfocused fruit flavors. Slightly bitter green apple impressions in the finish. $65
91 Bellefon, 2002 Brut
Cuvée de Moines, Épernay
Lovely straw-yellow hue with medium bubbles and steady activity. Wafting aromas of pear and dried orange peel with light floral and ginger undertones. Soft fruit impressions on the palate evolve to reveal flavors of crisp citrus, yellow apple and plum. Closes with an appealing, medium finish. $70
88 Bellefon, NV Brut Rosé
Cuvée de Moines, Épernay
Attractive pale salmon-pink hue with moderate activity. Aromas of caramel and baked apple. Flavors of Christmas spice emerge in the rather short finish. $65
Bollinger
94 Bollinger, NV Brut Special Cuvée
Aÿ
Burnished gold hue with a lively, streaming bead. Attractive bakery aromas of fresh croissant with nutmeg and vanilla highlights. Forward, mixed flavors of baked apple, dark honey and notes of beer and malt. Stylish, distinctive finish imbued with lingering red apple, caramel and crisp acidity. $70
92 Bollinger, 1999 Brut Grande Année
Aÿ
Pale gold hue with an active bead. Shy, buttery aromas with hints of cream and caramel. Rich tarte tatin flavors highlighted by opulent peach and cream notes. Lengthy, enjoyable finish displays elegance as well as staying power. $100
Charles de Cazanove
92 Charles de Cazanove, NV Brut
Premier Cru, Reims
Deep gold hue with a stream of pinpoint bubbles. Appealing scents of malt, gingerbread and lemon custard. Creamy flavors of lemon curd and apple cider. Lingering close accented by hints of tangerine and lime zest. $50
88 Charles de Cazanove, 2003 Brut
Le Millésimé, Reims
Pale straw hue with a lively foam. Restrained scents of white peach and crème brûlée. Sweet flavors of pear and apple cider. Suggestions of malt and oloroso sherry in the moderate close. $70
93 Charles de Cazanove, 1998 Brut
Le Stradivarius, Reims
Bright citrine hue with energetic bubbles. Classic aromas of brioche, lemon crème and malt. Creamy acidity and supple flavors of white peach and grapefruit. Hints of marzipan and nectarine in the honeyed close. $90
90 Charles de Cazanove, NV Brut Rosé
Reims
Dense salmon hue with a delicate mousse. Pleasing aromas of raspberry, wild cherry and allspice. Juicy flavors of pink grapefruit and raspberry. Malt and bread dough enrich the lively close. $60
Charles Heidsieck
91 Charles Heidsieck, NV Brut
Réserve, Reims
Pretty golden ale hue with very persistent effervescence. Peach and pear flavors accented by floral nuances and bursts of orange zest. Balanced and elegant with loads of vanilla and baked grain flavors balanced by well-integrated acidity. Crisp, cleansing close displays pencil lead minerality. $55
95 Charles Heidsieck, 2000 Blanc des Millénaires
Reims
Lustrous white-gold hue with a rich mousse. Pinpoint bubbles lift wafting aromas of lime peel and crisp apple laced with mineral notes. Sharp definition in the mouth thanks to well-balanced acidity and exceptionally pure citrus and apple fruit. Crisp minerality hangs on the palate, and yellow fruit emerges in the lean, clean, sublime finish. $200
91 Charles Heidsieck, NV Rosé
Réserve, Reims
Light salmon-orange hue with markedly active, effervescent, pinpoint bubbles. Sweet bouquet of berry and cherry scents with light rose petal undertones. Creamy entry echoes the nose with loads of cherry and bright lemon fruit wrapped around a foamy ribbon of citrus-tinged acidity. Tart, tangy close framed by fresh-squeezed lime juice and rich vanilla highlights. $75
Delamotte
93 Delamotte, NV Brut
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Bright gold hue with an active bead. Creamy, lightly charred aromas of croissant and baked apple. Ripe flavors of peach and pear balanced by drying mineral accents. Juicy, nectar-like finish imbued with lovely apple and ginger flavors. $55
93 Delamotte, 1999 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Gold hue with a persistent bead. Yeasty, vanillin aromas. Rich and creamy in the mouth with generous flavors of vanilla, nutmeg, dark honey, white peach and apricot. Supple, doughy finish accented by ginger, citrus and mineral elements. $95
92 Delamotte, NV Brut Rosé
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Lovely copper salmon hue. Mixed bouquet of coffee bean, orange zest and apple. Flavors of red fruit and licorice laced with a defined sweetness from front to back. Soft, exotic finish evocative of orange creamsicle. $105
Delbeck
92 Delbeck, NV Brut Heritage
Reims
Bright citrine hue with moderate bubbles. Classic aromas of orange blossom, brioche and marmalade with secondary scents of oloroso sherry and hazelnut. Creamy flavors of pear and apple cider. Lingering, white peach-infused close accented by almond brittle. $66
91 Delbeck, NV Brut Heritage Rosé
Reims
Deep copper hue with a delicate bead. Appealing scents of raspberry, maple and brioche. Ripe flavors of raspberry and wild cherry marked by creamy acidity. Hints of rose petal and hibiscus emerge in the lingering close. $84
Deutz
94 Deutz, NV Brut Classic
Aÿ
Pale gold hue with a tint of copper. Aromas of toast and bread dough with a whiff of beer. Accessible flavors of honeydew melon and caramel followed by peach and mango notes. Rich, lasting tropical fruit flavors balanced by fresh acidity in the close. $41
93 Deutz, 2005 Brut
Aÿ
Bright gold hue with an active bead. Uplifting, mixed aromas of bacon fat, apple and brine. Steely citrus and charred oak flavors resonate in a drying, classic brut finish. $69
94 Deutz, 2005 Brut Rosé
Aÿ
Intense red-copper hue with a persistent, dancing, bead. Forward aromas of rose petal, red licorice, cranberry and freshly kneaded bread dough. Sweet/tart red fruit flavors joined by a cherry pit-like astringency. Very crisp, youthful finish with enduring red fruit impressions. $73
95 Cuvée William Deutz, 1999 Brut Rosé
Aÿ
Copper orange hue with steady effervescence and an ebullient mousse. Enticing bouquet of warm croissant and strawberry preserves. Rich flavors of cherry, cranberry and strawberry imbued with a lightly toasted nuance. Firm, persistent finish bolstered by assertive red fruit flavors. $167
96 Amour de Deutz, 1999 Brut
Aÿ (Tête de Cuvée/Blanc de Blancs)
Burnished gold hue with fine, pinpoint bubbles. Heady aromas of pecan cookie, vanilla, mocha and melted butter. Delicate flavors of biscuit, cream and peach laced with lively, fresh acidity. Distinctive, lengthy finish that expresses the staying power of grand cru Côte des Blancs chardonnay. $167
Duval-Leroy
88 Duval-Leroy, NV Brut
Vertus
Light golden ale hue with a persistent stream of fine bubbles. Shy aromas of brioche and vanilla. Sweet, foamy flavors of peach and pear nectar. Crisp, green-apple acidity and citrus accents brighten the close. $44
92 Duval-Leroy, 2004 Brut
Clos des Bouveries, Vertus
Light silver-gold hue with active, pinpoint bubbles. Pretty bouquet of caramel and lightly toasted grain. Distinct flavors of buttered bread with a pleasant brett-like aspect. Continued malty barrel nuances are joined by lime-laced acidity in the tasty close. $59
93 Duval-Leroy, 1996 Brut
Femme de Champagne, Vertus
Light straw-yellow hue with a steady stream of fine bubbles. Enticing scents of honey, caramel and toasted grain. Creamy mouth-feel on entry with mixed flavors of mocha, cherry juice and lemon chiffon. Tart, youthful green apple close lavished with creamy citrus. $120
88 Duval-Leroy, NV Brut Rosé
Vertus
Light salmon hue with active effervescence. Aromas of warm cherry pie and baked apple. Creamy, frothy texture amplifies red apple, honey and toasted white bread flavors. Tart, tangy Granny Smith apple and creamy pear-like notes frame the finish. $58
86 Duval-Leroy, NV Sec-Rosé
Vertus
Pretty gold-salmon hue with notable activity. Scents of tangerine, lemon zest and and rose petal. Sweet entry of candied yam and caramel. Grapefruit marks the close, along with lemon meringue pie. $32 / 375-ml
Henriot
88 Henriot, NV Brut, Souverain
Reims
Pale straw hue with active bubbles. Austere scents of flint, mineral and lime. Crisp acidity and juicy flavors of white grapefruit and lemon. Touches of almond and baked bread accent the steely close. $55
93 Henriot, NV Brut, Blanc Souverain
Pur Chardonnay, Reims
Bright lemon quartz hue with a stream of pinpoint bubbles. Enticing scents of lemon, yeast and fino sherry with subtle nuances of malt and honeysuckle. Juicy flavors of lemon curd and white peach. Creamy acidity and impressions of vanilla and clover honey in the lingering close. $45
90 Henriot, NV Rosé
Reims
Bright peach hue with a delicate mousse. Shy aromas of strawberry and lemon with a whiff of yeast. Elegant flavors of raspberry and Asian pear. Crisp acidity and continued raspberry notes brighten the yeasty close. $65
Laurent-Perrier
92 Laurent-Perrier, NV Ultra Brut
Tours-sur-Marne
Light golden ale hue; excellent stream of pinpoint bubbles. Pretty bouquet of charred oak, beer barrel and toasted grain. Silky-textured, melded flavors of creamy lemon, pear and vanilla with integrated acidity. Though ultra brut, this bone-dry Champagne is long on flavor and complexity. $85
90 Laurent-Perrier, NV Brut L-P
Tours-sur-Marne
Delicate lemon-yellow hue with a persistent bead. Pretty scents of brioche, lemon and white grapefruit. Soft, creamy mouth-feel with flavors of vanilla cake, caramel and sweet/sour citrus. Tart, zesty close offers pleasing additions of spice and backing minerality. $49
93 Laurent-Perrier, 1999 Brut Millésimé
Tours-sur-Marne
Light golden ale hue with a fine, steady stream of effervescence. Delicate scents of white bread along with a floral component. Creamy-textured flavors of apple, cherry and tart lemon fruit explode on the palate. Displays great finesse in the close with grapefruit, lime and a wonderful sparkling minerality. $70
94 Laurent-Perrier, NV Grand Siècle
Grande Cuvée, Tours-sur-Marne
Moderate straw-yellow hue with fine, active bubbles. Expressive nose of toasted grain and red apple with light lemon accents. Foamy texture on entry with continued cherry notes that complement pear and spice together with a very pleasing, creamy mineral appeal. Tart apple and crisp lemon/lime-inspired acidity grace the elegant close. $200
90 Laurent-Perrier, NV Cuvée Rosé Brut
Tours-sur-Marne
Moderate salmon hue with an active bead. Shy nose with whiffs of cherry and vanilla. Bright flavors of cherry pie, strawberry and creamy vanilla shine on the palate and offer a toasty appeal. Tart cherry fruit joined by tangy citrus elements in the finish. $100
Louis Roederer
93 Louis Roederer, NV Brut Premier
Reims
Pale gold hue with driving bubbles and a full mousse. Fresh aromas of multi-grain bread with ginger, toffee and vanilla accents. Lively, frothy entry of tart lemon/lime flavors laced with razor-sharp acidity. Dry mineral, citrus and toast punctuate the lengthy finish. $43
92 Louis Roederer, 2004 Brut
Reims
Medium gold hue with a unbroken, active bead. Shy bouquet emitting scents of bread dough and banana peel. Croissant and brioche flavors mingle with notes of apple butter and brown spice. Lightly charred finish of citrus and a hint of dark honey. $67
94 Louis Roederer, 2004 Brut Rosé
Reims
Attractive seashell pink hue. Very fresh aromas of brioche and red fruit with a note of chalkiness. Tasty strawberry and cranberry flavors laced with flinty, mineral-like accents. Yeasty, acidic finish delivers a lingering orange zest nuance. $67
94 Louis Roederer, 2004 Carte Blanche
Extra Dry, Reims
Pale gold hue. Subtle aromas of rose water and vanilla. Rich, balanced flavors of caramel apple and vanilla frosting with a thread of toasted croissant running through the core. Sweet, lengthy finish imparts a pleasant cotton candy element. $50
96 Louis Roederer, 2004 Cristal Brut Rosé
Reims
Bronze hue with a glistening pink mousse. Sweet, doughy bouquet of orange zest, vanilla and chalk. Elegant, candied dried fruit flavors with notes of brioche and baked apple. A well-structured, zesty, fruit-driven finish. $468
G.H. Mumm
89 G.H. Mumm, NV Brut Cordon Rouge
Reims
Sun-yellow hue with active bubbles. Bright scents of lemon, white grapefruit and bread dough. Juicy flavors of Granny Smith apple and lime zest. Crisp close marked by hints of smoke and slate. $35
91 G.H. Mumm, NV Mumm de Cramant
Grand Cru, Brut Chardonnay, Reims
Pale straw hue with extremely active bubbles. Reserved scents of croissant, white peach and lemon crème. Creamy flavors of lemon panna cotta and Golden Delicious apple. Continued impressions of lemon custard in the silky close. $75
88 G.H. Mumm, NV Brut Rosé
Reims
Dense salmon hue with active bubbles. Powerful scents of raspberry, plum and clafouti. Juicy flavors of strawberry and vanilla custard. Impressions of red raspberry and clementine carry the close. $55
Nicolas Feuillatte
89 Nicolas Feuillatte, NV Brut
Chouilly, Épernay
Light gold-bronze hue with a fine stream of bubbles. Aromatic nose of malt, roasted grain and vanilla. Foamy texture with a distinct malty barrel taste and notes of white toast and lime. Youthful, balanced close highlights tangy pink grapefruit and toast. $36
91 Nicolas Feuillatte, 1999 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Chouilly, Épernay
Silver-gold hue with persistent, very small bubbles. Aromas of butterscotch and malted grain. Clean entry of tart lemon and lime zest accented by buttered bread notes. Crisp green apple-laced acidity highlights tangy grapefruit flavors in the finish. $46
91 Nicolas Feuillatte, 2000 Brut Cuvée Spéciale
Chouilly, Épernay
Silver-gold hue with notable effervescence. Pretty aromas of malty beer barrel and brioche. Creamy vanilla and cherry flavors supported by a pleasant backing of apple cider. Crisp close of tart red apple notes accented by a suggestion of vanilla cake. $75
96 Nicolas Feuillatte, 1998 Brut Palmes d’Or
Chouilly, Épernay
Gold-bronze hue displays a very fine stream of active effervescence. Pretty bouquet of vanilla, buttered bread and yeasty brioche scents. Crisp flavors on entry with notable integration of lemon chiffon, malted grain and a laser beam of bracing, citrus minerality. Well-balanced finish highlights bread dough and offers an interesting, nutty appeal. $135
87 Nicolas Feuillatte, NV Brut Rosé
Chouilly, Épernay
Orange-salmon hue with notable activity. Shy nose of gamy meat and earth. Foamy entry with soft lemon pie notes and a briny, seashore aspect. Soft cherry and tart citrus notes surface in the cleansing close. $48
Perrier-Jouët
87 Perrier-Jouët, NV Grand Brut
Épernay
Moderate straw-yellow hue with lovely effervescence and a generous mousse. Rich scents of butter, biscuit and light grain. Malty, beer barrel flavors together with bright lime and light baked apple notes. Youthful citrusy acidity drives the cleansing close. $40
88 Perrier-Jouët, 2000 Brut
Fleur de Champagne, Épernay
Light silver-gold hue with a lively stream of active bubbles. Aromas of graphite, biscuit and toasted grain. Tart lemon curd and wheat flavors imbued with a distinct black pepper spiciness. Very tart close with a continuing spicy appeal that slips away faster than anticipated. $140
94 Perrier-Jouët, 2000 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Fleur de Champagne, Épernay
Light golden ale hue with very tiny, active bubbles. Classic bouquet of buttered white bread and acacia with a hint of lemon. Soft, coating entry with flavors of sherry and bread dough wrapped in a ribbon of lemon citrus. Notable integration of crisp grapefruit-laced acidity and elegant, foamy citrus impressions in the finish. $400
87 Perrier-Jouët, NV Brut Rosé
Blason, Épernay
Light salmon hue with a steady stream of pinpoint bubbles. Aromas of bright cherry pie and lemon chiffon. Stone fruit and creamy vanilla flavors framed by grapefruit. A slight acidic bite in the close with hints of berry; lacks complexity. $75
92 Perrier-Jouët, 2002 Brut Rosé
Fleur de Champagne, Épernay
Shimmery salmon-copper hue with ribbons of very small bubbles. Scents of cherry, creamy biscuit and light lemons. Foamy in the mouth with flavors of berry and buttery bread. A crisp close featuring tart lemon zest and hints of mocha and cherry. $299
Piper-Heidsieck
91 Piper-Heidsieck, NV Brut
Reims
Bright lemon quartz hue with an abundance of tiny bubbles. Classic scents of lemon, yeast and mineral. Juicy flavors of white peach and pink grapefruit. Crisp acidity and hints of marzipan and quince in the lemon-driven close. $45
88 Piper-Heidsieck, Cuvée Sublime
NV Demi-Sec, Reims
Dense gold hue with a delicate mousse. Inviting scents of lemon custard, vanilla and sweet maple. Sweet flavors of pear and peach nectar. Creamy acidity and lingering notes of peach and bergamot in the honeyed close. $50
86 Piper-Heidsieck, NV Rosé Sauvage
Reims
Dense pomegranate hue with active bubbles. Powerful scents of wild cherry and strawberry. Sweet flavors of raspberry and Bing cherry. Continued red fruit notes in the close. $55
Pol Roger
91 Pol Roger, NV Brut Réserve
Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Épernay
Pale straw-yellow hue with a very fine mousse. Pretty bouquet of crisp apple, white flowers, white peach and a touch of minerality. Yeasty brioche notes emerge on the palate along with yellow stone fruit and appealing red fruit flavors. Luscious in the finish without losing its elegance. $48
89 Pol Roger, NV Brut Pure
Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Épernay
White-gold hue with small, effusive bubbles. Generous minerality on the nose with suggestions of cut apple and a hint of citrus. Bone-dry with a chalky minerality that begs for food. A touch of white flower and crisp apple qualities frame the medium finish. $75
93 Pol Roger, 1999 Blanc de Blancs
Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Épernay
Pale gold with green highlights and very fine bubbles. Bracing aromas of pungent citrus peel underscored by nuances of honey and white flowers. Flavors of crisp apple and mineral qualities shine through in the very long finish. Understated power in a wine that will become even better with age. $120
93 Pol Roger, 1999 Brut
Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Épernay
Brilliant pale gold hue with fine, small bubbles and an excellent mousse. Delicate bouquet of apple, white flowers and a bit of exotic spice. Surprisingly forceful on the palate, echoing the spiciness along with well-developed, buttery pastry notes. Sweet apple and a bit of honey carry the close, together with a lovely citrus element that lends balance. $120
95 Pol Roger, 1998 Brut
Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, Épernay
Rich gold hue with tiny bubbles. Very complex bouquet of white flowers, acacia honey, haunting spice nuances and a bit of dried citrus peel. Exceptional balance with a wonderful contrast between crisp citrus notes, warm apple fruit and Christmas spice. A powerful, elegant wine that is, above all, luscious. $200
90 Pol Roger, NV Demi-Sec
Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Épernay
Pale gold hue with small bubbles. Expressive nose of apple and red fruit elements. There is a pleasing, demi-sec richness in the mouth, yet it remains lively and vibrant. Appropriately named “Rich,” the dosage enhances the aromatic expressiveness without detracting from a long, pleasing citrus- and apple-laced finish. $60
Pommery
88 Pommery, NV Brut Royal
Reims
Bright lemon-yellow hue. Fresh scents of lemon and Granny Smith apple. Spritzy flavors of white grapefruit and lime. Cleansing acidity and hints of almond paste and mineral in the lemony close. $42
88 Pommery, NV Brut Apanage
Reims
Pale yellow hue with small bubbles. Reserved scents of lemon and yeast with hints of malt. Juicy flavors of lemon and lime. A touch of baked apple graces the crisp close. $50
93 Pommery, 1999 Brut Grand Cru
Reims
Light yellow hue with streams of tiny bubbles. Complex scents of lemon, straw and honey. Crisp acidity and juicy flavors of lemon custard and apple cider. Brioche and acacia surface in the lingering close. $85
94 Pommery, 1998 Cuvée Louise
Reims
Bright green-gold hue with a paucity of bubbles. Powerful scents of lemon, sourdough and slate with secondary nuances of fino sherry and hazelnut. Creamy, winey flavors of lemon custard and apple cider. Hints of almond paste, quince and white peach in the close. $185
91 Pommery, NV Blanc de Blancs
Summertime, Reims
Pale green-gold hue with pinpoint bubbles. Inviting scents of peach, lemon custard and brioche. Creamy flavors of Golden Delicious apple and white peach. Hints of marzipan and quince in the lingering close. $55
91 Pommery, NV Blanc de Noirs
Wintertime, Reims
Burnished gold hue with a paucity of bubbles. Inviting scents of pear, lemon custard and malt. Foamy mouth-feel with juicy flavors of apple cider and carambola. Crisp impressions of steel and slate in the angular finish. $55
90 Pommery, NV Brut Rosé
Springtime, Reims
Moderate copper hue with pinpoint bubbles and a lovely foam. Fresh scents of raspberry and wild cherry with hints of lemon peel and bread dough. Juicy flavors of raspberry and lemon curd. Juicy close with a tannic edge. $55
88 Pommery, NV Brut Rosé
Reims
Elegant copper hue with rambunctious bubbles. Crisp scents of strawberry and bread dough. Ripe flavors of raspberry and pink grapefruit. Crisp acidity and a touch of honey in the lemony close. $70
96 Pommery, 2000 Cuvée Louise Rosé
Reims
Gorgeous amber hue with a persistent stream of pinpoint bubbles. Captivating aromas of white peach, ruby red grapefruit and gardenia with secondary nuances of passion fruit and pain perdu. Creamy acidity and generous flavors of nectarine and kumquat supported by a backbone of mineral and slate. Echoes of raspberry, ginger and hibiscus in the ethereal finish. $400
Taittinger
88 Taittinger, NV Brut La Française
Reims
Pale gold hue with medium bubbles. Bouquet of baked apple and Golden Delicious apple with a hint of bread dough. Apple notes echo on the palate. A bit soft in the medium finish. $45
89 Taittinger, 2003 Brut
Reims
Pale gold hue with small bubbles. Pleasant aromas of bread dough, dried citrus peel and Golden Delicious apple. Round flavors of golden apple continue with a hint of maltiness that complements the creamy texture. Crisp apple and white peach notes accent the finish. $80
87 Taittinger, NV Brut Prélude
Grands Crus, Reims
Golden ale hue with small active bubbles. Aromas of stone fruit and pear. Foamy mouth-feel with tart lemon and candied fruit aspects. A green apple-themed close infused with butterscotch and nut. $75
90 Taittinger, NV Brut Prestige Rosé
Reims
Appealing deep salmon-pink hue with a fine mousse. Bright red fruit aromas with distinct strawberry scents. Quite dry on entry with dried orange peel and crisp citrus notes balancing the red fruit. Medium finish. $70
95 Taittinger, 2003 Comtes de Champagne
Rosé, Reims
Exceptional salmon-pink hue with copper glints and a pinpoint bead. Haunting aromas of wild strawberry and black cherry with appealing floral and almond impressions. Luxurious texture with intense, elegant flavors of red berry, black currant and red apple accented by a bit of crisp orange peel that lends added dimension. Long, satisfying finish. $300
Other Regions
89 Rosa Regale, 2008 Sparkling Dolce Red
Brachetto d’ Acqui, Italy
Flashy, cranberry hue with an active mousse. Uplifting wild berry aromas with a tea-like note of fresh chai. Forward and expressive with rich, sweet flavors of raspberry and pomegranate juice. A dollop of dark honey accents the finish. $23
88 Segura Viudas, NV Brut Aria Pinot Noir
Torrelavit, Spain
Eye-catching strawberry hue with a frothy-rich mousse. Ripe black cherry and cranberry aromas with an earthy pinot noir accent. Sweet cherry fruit flavors offer a spicy edge of mint. A note of chalk marks the finish. $12
About the BuyLine Panel: More than 125 wines are reviewed in every issue of Wine News. All wines are tasted double-blind and each entry is evaluated and scored based upon individual merit. Wines that score above 70 points are recommended in the BuyLine. Tasting and interpreting wine is a purely subjective exercise; all scores and accompanying tasting notes represent the collective opinions of our panel.
Wine Samples: Send samples for review with retail price affixed to:
Wine News BuyLine Tasting Panel
1501 Venera Avenue, Suite 220
Coral Gables, FL 33146
Telephone: 305.740.7170
BuyLine members: Maurice Adams, panelist; Lyn Farmer, senior editor; Abraham Horowitz, panelist; Tom E. Smith, publisher; John Stroker, panelist; Fred Tasker, Miami Herald wine critic.
Scoring: Tasting notes reflect the panel's collective impressions; scores are averaged and represent the panel's mean. Wines possessing certain criteria will be singled out for special recognition:
Taster's Choice: Wines which display outstanding quality, character and potential.
Best Value Wines of exceptional quality which sell at a moderate price.
Stemware: Riedel Ouverture tasting glasses.
Pricing: Prices vary from state to state. Retail prices listed are approximate.
