Beguiling Bubblies - drinking well at every priceBy Todd M. WernstromValue is most certainly in the eye of the beholder, and perhaps no more so than in these economically turbulent times. And just as the light is seeming to appear at the end of the world's collective tunnel of financial malaise, there has been a subtle, downward tick in price of that most celebratory of wines, Champagne. Though it will never move into the bargain category, this "adjustment" may continue as the dollar perks up vis-à-vis the euro. In short, this is the best time in recent memory to jump back into bubbles. The great houses of Reims and Épernay have given consumers even more incentive to branch out by adding to their offerings, either with newish categories, such as zero dosage wines, or within existing lineups by including new wines at different price points. In this respect, the venerable house of Taittinger has added wines to two categories in the last few years (Prélude Grands Crus and a sec called Nocturne), while Pommery has created an intriguing complement of four new cuvées christened Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter ($55 each).
The pecking order between the categories remains pretty much the same. The non-vintage brut, every house's workhorse, remains both the most abundant offering and the least expensive. Next up is the vintage label, one that usually clocks in at about two times the price of NV brut. Then there is the prestige cuvée, which is some multiple of the vintage wine (the multiple depends on the house). The stratification is repeated within the rosé category, with the general rule being that this exalted — and increasingly popular (thus, important) — segment starts basically where vintage blancs begin, and then goes up accordingly.
And because life is truly getting sweet again, why not raise a glass or two of demi-sec? After all, we deserve it.
Duval-Leroy
Under the energetic and creative stewardship of Carol Duval-Leroy, the family house of Duval-Leroy has introduced Femme de Champagne, a wine that exhibits both red and white fruit attributes, and is definitely on the lush and creamy side. Despite adding Femme to the lineup, Duval-Leroy has otherwise kept her list fairly compact. Rather than offering consumers several choices within a category, the house essentially adheres to the traditional NV, vintage and prestige scorecard. Of special note to the consumer, however, is the conservative spread between each category's price point: the NV at $44, the Vintage at $59 and the Femme not too terribly far off at $120.
G.H. Mumm
Cramant is recognized as one of the very best sources for chardonnay in Champagne, if not the world. It is the white grape in the typical three-grape Champagne cépage that many experts believe lends the planet's most ethereal bubbly its incomparable elegance and age-worthiness. And no house is more associated with this village than G.H. Mumm. Its distinctive Mumm de Cramant bottle is, like the wine inside it, possessed of both style and substance. Though the house's fortunes certainly are more pegged to its Cordon Rouge — an NV Brut that has been on consumer tables and in movies like Casablanca for many decades — this 100 percent grand cru offering is always highly regarded by critics. At $75 per bottle, it is second only to Krug's in price for a non-vintage (in Krug's case, a multi-vintage) non-rosé Champagne.
Piper-Heidsieck
Though Piper-Heidsieck goes about making its iconic rosé the way most houses do, by blending in still red wine, there is no question that Sauvage is very much at the forefront of the rosé revolution set in motion by Laurent-Perrier perhaps ten or so years ago. Régis Camus, the chef de caves at both Piper and the underrated and very outstanding Charles Heidsieck, has crafted a rosé that has caught the attention of the club crowd. Sauvage ($55) is perhaps the most wine-like of the major rosés with powerful aromas, a forceful mouth-feel and a lingering finish.
Pol Roger
The esteemed, family-owned house of Pol Roger boasts arguably the most complete roster of stellar bubblies. From the bone-dry Brut Pure to the NV and vintage-dated wines of every ilk and hue to the one-and-only Sir Winston and a Demi-Sec for after-dinner sipping, Pol Roger has something wonderful for every Champagne palate. Ranging from the mid-$40s to just over $200, there is no more consumer-friendly price spread in Champagne. The Pol Roger hallmark has long been elegance over extravagance. Pinpoint bubbles, said to be evidence of very cool cellars, and lovely aromatics are always present, regardless of the category.
Louis Roederer
No Champagne is as associated with the luxe life as is Roederer's Cristal (blanc and rosé). Yet the launch of Carte Blanche Extra Dry, led by house president Frédéric Rouzaud, is a timely offering for those in search of some fiscal sanity to go with their bubbles. It fetches about $50, a price point seldom seen in any Champagne category. Plus, according to the panel, this rich, 94-point quaffer possesses subtle aromas and impeccably balanced flavors unmatched by any of its extra dry peers.
S. Salon
Rating a perfect score from the BuyLine panel, what more need be said about Salon's superb 1997 Blanc de Blancs? That the vintage-only house is an acknowledged leader in all-chardonnay bubblies goes without saying, but this 100-pointer perfectly illustrates the opportunity currently presented to consumers. Delamotte, Salon's neighbor and sister house, can be had for a fraction of Salon's price, be it the lithe NV (93 points; $55) or the vintage Blanc de Blancs (93 points; $95) or even the complex NV Rosé (92 points; $105). Though they may not be technically "perfect," which is entirely subjective anyway, a frugal drinker can bring home five bottles of Delamotte for the price of one Salon.
Veuve Clicquot
There is certainly no more famous "yellow" than Champagne Veuve Clicquot's non-vintage version. Clicquot's marketing savvy sets the pace in all of Champagnedom. Not only is the burntish-orange color of the ubiquitous Yellow Label NV virtually synonymous with Champagne, but the prestige wine, La Grande Dame (both the vintage-dated blanc and rosé versions), is always among the best-selling holiday status purchases (its smart packaging no doubt adds to its allure). At the end of the day, however, a bubbly still must be judged on what's in the bottle. The NV Yellow Label is a stolid Champagne that can be found in supermarkets for under $40. Both Grande Dames ($150 and $300, respectively) are the epitome of grace and breed. Their redfruit-heavy blends are always subtle and beautifully balanced, and as pretty to behold as to swallow.
Guest contributor Todd M. Wernstrom is the former executive editor of Wine News.
