At Carneros Bistro, chef Janine Falvo smokes sturgeon over pistachio shells, hazelnut shells and applewood, and serves it with osetra caviar, potato latke and Meyer lemon crème fraîche as a dramatic appetizer. The dish is presented tableside in a cloud of captured smoke that adds even more depth and complexity to the “smoked” experience.
RYAN LELY
Smoked - luxurious flavors, sublime pairingsBy Carole KotkinInhaling the sweet, earthy scents that waft upward as food slowly smokes over a bed of glowing embers evokes deeply imbedded sensory associations of primitive cookfires tended by early man, as well as more recent mouth-watering memories. And where there’s fire, there’s smoke, which has been used since prehistoric times to preserve meat. Smoke still serves that basic purpose, but today’s chefs also rely on it to infuse delightfully woodsy and subtly complex aspects to food.
Though the unctuous flavor of smoke eludes description, pairing wine with smoked dishes is far more easy. Bubblies offer an affable synergy, particularly those that have a bit of cork age, because many boast a hint of smoke in their flavor profiles. The best sparklers also share other traits, like vibrant acidity, a modest level of alcohol and a palate-cleansing effervescence, that translate to an affinity for smoky dishes. Chris Sawyer, sommelier and wine educator at Carneros Bistro & Wine Bar at The Lodge at Sonoma in Sonoma, California, elaborates, “Sparkling wines possess fruity, nutty or sometimes bready flavors that wrap around the flavors of salty, spicy or smoked cuisine like an elegant glove.”
Cooking with smoke has been an important part of recorded American culinary culture since Colonial days when indigenous tribes taught European settlers how to preserve meat from a bountiful hunt or fish from a prodigious catch. Today no cooking style is more quintessentially American than barbecue, which can be loosely defined as slow-cooking with smoke.
The advent of refrigeration in the 20th century eliminated the need for smoking meats and seafood as a method of preservation, yet, thankfully, it endured as a means of imparting added dimension to specialty foods like smokehouse-cured ham and applewood-smoked bacon. Indeed, smoking yields intense yet delicate flavors suitable to a variety of foods. To achieve this complexity, hot or cold smoking methods can be used. Hot smoked foods are actually slowly cooked in the smoking process at temperatures between 150° and 190° F; in cold smoking, temperatures range from about 70° to 110° F and rely entirely on smoke rather than heat to cure the food.
The age-old technique has reemerged as a cooking trend among contemporary chefs who are imbuing signature preparations with the scents and flavors of smoke. Many are now house-smoking their own meats, poultry, seafood, herbs, salts, nuts, vegetables and cheeses. Grant Achatz of Alinea restaurant in Chicago and Jose Andres of Café Atlantico’s Minibar in Washington, D.C. are even “making” complementary-smelling smokes and vapors, capturing them in bell jars, glasses and plastic bags, and then releasing them tableside to add depth and complexity to their respective accompanying dishes.
Janine Falvo, the brilliant executive chef of Carneros Bistro & Wine Bar, is just one of many chefs using simple, improvised smoking equipment. Over the past few years, she has perfected a method of smoking her own pork belly, prawns, lamb racks, fish and vegetables. “I put together what I call a ‘ghetto smoker,’ using an old hotel pan [baking pan] and lining it with a perforated hotel pan under which I place applewood chips, hazelnut or pistachio shells, or even shredded cigars,” Falvo notes that the flavor of the tobacco lends itself to the lamb as well as the wine. Seafood, with its characteristic mild flavor and relatively silky texture, is an excellent choice for smoking over applewood or nut shells. In addition to standards such as salmon and trout, other candidates include tuna, sturgeon, catfish, bluefish, scallops, shrimp, oysters, clams and mussels.
Chef Falvo favors multifaceted dishes that capture the freshness and vitality of the stellar Sonoma ingredients she sources from her proverbial backyard. She hot-smokes sturgeon over a smoldering fire of pistachio, hazelnut shells and applewood (less than an hour for 4 pounds of fish depending on the size and thickness of the filet). The finished product is served atop a crispy latke sprinkled with fleur de sel, topped with a dollop of crème fraîche and crowned with a scoop of Tsar Nicoulai sturgeon caviar from San Francisco. “I take the spices I would use for normal cooking and apply them to smoking,” she explains.
Among the 16 bubblies on Carneros Bistro & Wine Bar’s list, Sawyer suggests the Gloria Ferrer 1998 Carneros Cuvée as an apt pairing for Falvo’s smoked sturgeon. “It is an amazingly complex wine that complements the fattiness of the fish. A classic tête de cuvée, it’s made with 55 percent pinot noir and 45 percent chardonnay and is aged for more than eight years on the yeast to develop complex flavors of citrus, pear, cream, toasted almond and fine mousse.” In addition to complementing the smoky flavors of the sturgeon, he says its inherent elegance and finesse work well with the salty character of the caviar and the creamy texture of the crème fraîche. “The end result is an explosion of flavors on the palate,” he enthuses, adding that one of the best reasons to pour sparkling wine at any time of year is its sheer versatility with food. “Various styles of bubbly from around the world can stand up to the saltiest of snacks or the richest [smoked food].”
On the East Coast at the new Michelle Bernstein at The Omphoy in Palm Beach, there are plenty of reasons to pop the cork. Star chef Michelle Bernstein smokes local fish, such as mackerel or king fish, and then blends it with commercially smoked trout, cream cheese, crème fraîche, scallions and citrus zest in a lunch-time dip served with a stack of saltines. “People are going crazy over this amuse-bouche because the creamy, smoky flavors open up the appetite. We make about five gallons a day,” boasts Bernstein, the 2008 James Beard Award winner for Best Chef of the South.
Bernstein, who is also the executive chef/partner at both Michy’s and Sra. Martinez in Miami, relishes how subtle and refined smoked food tastes when paired with a bubbly. Her husband/partner and resident wine guru David Martinez suggests matching her delectable dip with Billecart-Salmon Rosé Champagne. “The French sparkler becomes broader, spicier and toastier with the fish dip, while maintaining its internal balance,” he notes. Bernstein uses a commercial kitchen smoker at the Omphoy and shuttles a portable water smoker between Michy’s and Sra. Martinez to smoke oysters that she then tops with rhubarb chutney. Martinez matches the combo with a sparkling Cabernet Franc made by Château Tour Grise called “Zero Pointe.” Grilled Cornish hens served at Michy’s are slathered with a smoky fig barbecue sauce that Bernstein laces with tomatoes, onions, peppers, garlic and chilies. This bold dish, says Martinez, is further heightened by a glass of Ruinart NV Blanc de Blancs because its crisp profile flatters rich flavors.
Chicago’s Rick Tramonto, executive chef/partner at Tru, Tramonto’s Steak & Seafood and Osteria di Tramonto, suggests that, along with a bit of nostalgia — “Smoky flavors bring back the taste of childhood comfort foods like bacon or ham” — it’s the “earthy, gutsy, satisfying warmth and versatility” of smoked foods that’s really drawing cooks to the smoker. His choice of fuels ranges from fruitwood, such as cherry and apple, to hibiscus tea and lavender. Tramonto’s array of unerringly executed smoked dishes includes a delicate, hibiscus-smoked Scottish salmon with fennel salad; a cherrywood-smoked venison carpaccio with a drizzle of bittersweet chocolate mole; and Waygu beef or braised short ribs with smoked rutabaga mash. He doesn’t hesitate to pair these flavor-charged preparations with bubblies: “The light alcohol content and heavy fruitiness of Prosecco pairs beautifully with the salmon; Krug Rosé Champagne with its floral and citrus flavors is a wonderful match for the smoked venison; and a sparkling wine cocktail is the perfect drink for the beef dishes and smoked rutabaga.”
Tramonto and his peers are increasingly fired up about house-smoking their ingredients because they have discovered that simple foods can be elevated to new levels of complexity with a little creativity and very little effort. We can all toast to that.
Food Editor Carole Kotkin manages the Ocean Reef Club Cooking School in Key Largo; is a syndicated columnist for McClatchey Publishing; is co-author of Mmmmiami; and co-hosts Food & Wine Talk, which can be heard on www.south floridagourmet.com.
Smoking Your Own
The thought of do-it-yourself smoking might seem daunting, yet it is actually more forgiving than conventional grilling over red-hot coals or dancing flames. Because the cooking process is slower, it is more relaxing, too. Home smokers are readily found at hardware and home improvement stores, or an outdoor grill can adequately serve the same purpose.
- Several types of smokers are available commercially: Aluminum “Box Smokers” have hot plates at the bottom and are generally used for cold smoking; steel cylinder “Bullet-style Smokers” are fired by electric coils or charcoal and are usually used for hot smoking; “Stovetop Smokers” are fashioned to hold wood chips at the bottom of the pan and are equipped with a rack to hold food. (Camerons sells a stovetop version for $49.99; www.camerons.com.)
- A roasting pan or a wok can be turned into a smoker with a rack and aluminum foil.
- Many smokers feature a water pan above the heat source to keep the food from drying out.
- To hold wood chips, one can buy a smoke box or build one out of aluminum foil by folding foil into a box and poking holes in it.
- Purchase smoking woods in either prepared chip or sawdust briquette packages. Soak as directed or overnight. Avoid chemically treated or soft woods that contain sap. Hickory, alder fruitwood and oak are most popular.
Smoked Oysters
with Rhubarb Chutney
From Chef Michelle Bernstein, Michy’s
- 2 dozen oysters
- 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
- 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
- 1/2 pound rhubarb, peeled, trimmed and cut into 1/4 inch pieces
- 1/4 cup peeled and diced red onion
- 1 tablespoon peeled and diced fresh ginger
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves
- 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
- Kosher salt to taste
Next consider your fuel: Apple, cherry, alder or olive wood are ideal for smoking oysters.
There are two ways to smoke oysters for this recipe:
For a more cooked style, shuck the oysters and place them in a smoker that has already been primed with smoke. Heat for about 1 hour until oysters turn golden. Place them on a dish and brush with a little olive oil, chill and serve with the chutney.
For a more raw texture, yet still with a smoky aroma and flavor, place the unshucked oysters on ice in a smoker and smoke for about 45 minutes. Shuck and serve chilled with the rhubarb chutney.
For the rhubarb chutney: In a small saucepan, combine vinegar and sugar over medium heat. When sugar dissolves, add rhubarb. Reduce heat to low, cook for 5 to 8 minutes or until rhubarb begins to soften. Add red onion. Remove from heat and pour contents into a small bowl placed over a larger bowl of ice water. Allow the mixture to cool completely. Fold in ginger, tarragon, pepper and salt to taste.
Serve chutney over smoked oysters.
Makes 1 1/2 cups (enough for 2 dozen oysters, with plenty left over to refrigerate for next time).
Smoked Venison Carpaccio with
Chocolate Sauce & Grapes
From Chef Rick Tramonto, Tru
- 6 to 8 ounces loin of venison
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1 tablespoon whole espresso beans
- 1/2 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
- 1 tablespoon water
- Fleur de sel or other high-quality sea salt
- Champagne grapes, red and ripe
- Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Fire up smoker with fruitwood and allow chamber to fill with smoke. Smoke venison for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove and let rest for 15 minutes.
Put the cumin and coffee beans in a spice grinder and grind to a powder. Rub the spice mixture over the venison.
Heat a dry cast-iron skillet or sauté pan over high heat until very hot. Sear the venison on each side for about 30 seconds, being sure to keep the center raw. Transfer to a plate and refrigerate immediately to cool the meat quickly.
Spread a large sheet of plastic wrap on a work surface. Place the chilled venison loin at one end of the plastic wrap and roll up into a cylinder. Twist the overhanging ends of the plastic wrap in opposite directions to secure the venison tightly. Tie the ends with kitchen twine. Put the venison in the freezer for 6 to 8 hours until completely frozen. Ideally, this should be done the day before serving.
For the chocolate sauce: Put the chocolate in the top of a double boiler or a heatproof bowl that will fit snugly over a small saucepan. Fill the bottom of the double boiler or saucepan halfway with water and bring to a boil; turn off heat. Place the chocolate over the hot water and let stand for a few seconds until the chocolate starts to melt. Stir until completely melted. Add the water to thin out the sauce, if desired. Keep warm.
To serve, unwrap the venison loin and cut 12 thin slices with a very sharp knife (alternatively, an electric meat slicer is useful). If too hard to slice, let the meat thaw for a few minutes. Once sliced, it will be the perfect temperature for serving if plated quickly.
Use a pastry brush to paint a small amount of chocolate sauce on each empty plate. Arrange 2 slices of venison over the sauce and garnish each serving with a small cluster of ripe, red Champagne grapes. Drizzle venison with extra virgin olive oil.
Serves 6
