Photo: Mitchell Shenker
California's best wine of the year
By Steve PitcherCalifornia reds from the 1998 vintage took center stage in 2001, lining the shelves where the popular, highly regarded 1997 wines had been. Consumers approached these wines warily in response to commentators' pronouncements of a poor or lesser vintage. Would this be a repeat of the much-maligned 1988 and 1989 vintages? Would 1998 be the sole loser in a decade of successful vintages? Over the course of the year, it became apparent that the answer was no, or at least, not exactly.
The last three vintages in California - 1998, 1999 and 2000 - were cooler than normal, and 2001 looks (in early November) to continue that pattern. Such weather conditions, particularly when combined with more rain than normal, as in 1998, result in uneven crop set and erratic ripening. This has more of an impact on thick-skinned varieties, such as cabernet sauvignon and merlot, which are harvested late in the growing season, than on thin-skinned grapes, such as chardonnay, syrah, pinot noir and zinfandel, which are picked earlier.
All of which is prelude to properly appreciating the 1998 California reds, most of which were released during 2001. They are an inconsistent bunch, to be sure, especially the Cabernets and cabernet-based blends. And consumers had a right to be suspicious.
Yet some spectacular Cabs were made from 1998 fruit. And where the results were not absolutely superb, the worst that can be said for most of them is that they are lighter in body and extract than their 1997 predecessors, and higher in acidity. Traits such as these make them, much like Bordeaux reds, eminently suited to pairing with food.
The vineyard tactic that separated the great 1998 Cabs from the rest of the pack was the willingness of growers to severely thin the crop - up to 50 percent for some - during the summer, and then wait as the rainy season approached, letting the grapes hang on the vine well into October to achieve optimum maturity.
Etude's Tony Soter, who succeeded spectacularly with his 1998 Cabernet, subscribed to practices such as these. "We were able to mitigate a difficult vintage by implementing an exacting selection process," he says. "We significantly thinned crop levels, allowing only the most mature fruit to remain on the vine. Although crop levels were much smaller, quality was exceptionally high."
Chuck Wagner pursued a similar approach at Caymus. "A viticultural choice we made years ago - to deliberately reduce our crop yields in order to increase concentration and intensity of flavors - put us well ahead of the curve going in to the 1998 growing season," he says. Like many vintners, Wagner coped aggressively with the vintage's cool weather patterns. "We thinned our crop during the summer to give the grapes we left on the vines their best chance to reach maturity. Moreover, our reduction measures started at fruit set and continued through the season." For even more selectivity, Wagner picked in several passes through the vineyards. "For example, we harvested cabernet from one of our small estate blocks on October 1, 3, 13, 14 and 23," he explains. "As a result, while our yields were low - even by our standards - we were very pleased with the quality of the fruit and especially its maturity level."
The 1998 and 1999 white wines, as well as most of the Pinots, Syrahs and Zins from 1998 and 1999 are more even in quality in the North Coast, Central Coast and South-Central Coast. According to Ken Brown of Byron Vineyards in Santa Barbara County, "The 1998 and 1999 vintages have a common thread in that they were the coolest, lowest-yielding vintages of the decade in Santa Maria Valley - an appellation already celebrated for its long, cool growing season and small yields."
Vintage 2000, represented almost entirely by its white wine releases in 2001, had an even, cool growing season and yielded a higher-than-average crop of these varieties. White wine quality in 2000 may even rival 1996, a great vintage in this respect.
Other than the "Limited Production" listing, the wines cited here are produced in quantities of 1,000 cases or more, and while many are easy to find, others will require a more diligent search. In instances in which the winery declined to provide an exact case figure, the term "1,000+ cases" indicates its assurance that the undisclosed figure exceeds 1,000 cases.
Point scores are not assigned because I believe these wines are best served by description and, where not described, by being listed in association with the described wines. Suffice it to say that all the wines (except the "Best Values") would score at least 90 points on the BuyLine 100-point rating scale, and the very best would score at least 95 points. Those cited as "Best Values" fall at the high end of "Very Good," deserving a score of 88 points or higher.
The top three wines by varietal are ranked by number; wines accompanied only by tasting notes are listed in order of personal preference and should be considered peers; those listed alphabetically without description are very near to the quality levels of those that precede them.
Because prices continued their upward spiral in 2001, "Best Value" price limits were increased to $20 for reds and $15 for whites.
Cabernet Sauvignon
1. Etude, 1998 Napa Valley - $70 (Cabernet Sauvignon of the Year): It's nearly impossible to believe this wine, perhaps the most texturally opulent of Tony Soter's wines of the 1990s, is a product of the difficult, much-disparaged 1998 vintage. Ripe and rich with wonderfully fleshy, voluptuous fruit, and great depth and concentration of flavor. Enticingly forward, fragrant scents of cassis, black cherry, mocha, dried herbs - and violets from the cabernet franc in the blend - with raspberry emerging with airing, the wine delivers similar flavors in a velvety palate that goes on and on. Soft, supple and seamless with a full body and medium, ripe tannins, it's at once plush and generous, yet the very epitome of elegance. A superb example of the blender's art from the master. Hard to resist now, the 1998 Etude will certainly improve over the next six to eight years. (1,800 cases)
2. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, 1997 Cask 23, Napa Valley - $150: Released in late 2000, the current version of Cask 23 contains 5 percent merlot in the blend, resulting in a wine that offers attractive, intense, ripe aromas of cassis, plum, coffee, vanilla, sandalwood and dried sage. Big, rich and concentrated in the mouth with complex, layered flavors that replicate the nose, this is classic Cask 23: full bodied with firm, yet ripe tannins and fine extract requiring several years of cellaring to do the wine justice. (1,994 cases)
3. Dalla Valle, 1998 Napa Valley - $100: Cabernet franc (12 percent) works its magic in this opulently textured wine. Attractive, sweet aromas of cassis, black plum, black cherry and vanilla with notes of dried herbs, anise and cedar. Juicy and full bodied with ripe, supple tannins and vibrant flavors that echo the nose, this elegant, focused wine can be enjoyed now or relished even more after five to ten years of cellaring. (2,200 cases)
Shafer, 1997 Hillside Select - $150: Cabernet on a massive scale - 100 percent varietal and aged 32 months in 100 percent new French oak - featuring upfront aromas of black fruits, mocha and vanilla with a note of mineral. Full bodied, powerful and rich in the mouth with firm tannins and highly extracted black fruit flavors bracketed by obvious oak at this stage of the wine's development. Treat it as you would a Latour - give it at least a decade. (2,000 cases)
Beringer, 1997 Private Reserve - $100: A spectacular wine crafted from fruit sourced from five vineyards with three percent cabernet franc blended in to elongate the finish. The Private Reserve offers intense, very appealing, slightly smoky aromas of black fruits, plum, cocoa and cinnamon-clove spice. Similar flavors, enhanced by blackberry and cedar, are dense and nicely concentrated. Elegant and supple with a smooth, silky texture and ripe tannins. Immensely enjoyable now with the potential to develop nicely over the next decade. (18,000 cases)
St. Supéry, 1997 Limited Edition, Dollarhide Ranch, Napa Valley - $70: Forward, intense, aromatic scents of black raspberry and anise, along with smoky-oak qualities. Super-rich and concentrated with powerful flavors of black fruits, anise and an intriguing meatiness; excellent depth and concentration. Richly textured and exquisitely balanced with medium-full tannins. (1,328 cases)
Caymus, 1998 Special Selection, Napa Valley - $136: Initial earthiness dissipates with airing to reveal spicy, complex aromas of cassis, black cherry and wild berry, subtle mint and roasted coffee bean. Full bodied and built for aging, the wine's flavors echo the nose, picking up black licorice and plummy notes, and are rich and ripe with medium-full tannins that are firm on the finish. (2,000 cases)
Araujo, 1997 Eisele Vineyard, Napa Valley - $125 (2,710 cases)
Beaulieu Vineyard, 1998 Georges de Latour Private Reserve - $100 (18,000 cases)
Groth, 1997 Reserve, Napa Valley - $135 (1,500 cases)
Kenwood, 1997 Artist Series, Sonoma County - $75 (5,275 cases)
Robert Mondavi, 1997 Reserve, Napa Valley - $135 (1,000+ cases)
PlumpJack, 1998 Oakville - $48 (4,300 cases)
Silverado, 1998 Stags Leap District - $65 (1,575 cases)
Staglin, 1997 Rutherford - $65 (7,100 cases)
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, 1997 S.L.V., Napa Valley - $100 (3,688 cases)
Von Strasser, 1998 Diamond Mountain, Napa Valley - $50 (1,531 cases)
Whitehall Lane, 1998 Reserve, Napa Valley - $65 (3,400 cases)
Best Value Cabs
1. Amberhill, 1999 California - $11 (Best Value Cab of the Year): Very attractive aromas of black cherry, plum and dried herbs. Elegant and smooth, offering delicious flavors of dark berry and black cherry enhanced by brown spice, tobacco leaf and subtle green peppercorn. Gentle tannins and a pleasant, dusty character in the finish. A lot of wine for the money. (32,000 cases)
2. Echelon, 1999 California - $15: Pleasant aromas of glove leather and rich cassis accented by raspberry and cherry highlights. Supple, clean and moderately rich in the mouth with ripe fruit and medium tannins. Quite tasty with good depth and concentration. (20,000 cases)
3. Pepperwood Grove, 1999 California - $9: Aromas of blackberry, chocolate and brown spice translate nicely on a palate loaded with lots of bright fruit. A delicious, easy-to-drink Cab with soft tannins. (25,000 cases)
Beaulieu Vineyard, 1997 Centennial Release, Napa Valley - $16 (60,000 cases)
Cartlidge and Browne, 1999 California - $10 (12,000 cases)
Huntington, 1998 North Coast - $12 (4,500 cases)
J. Lohr, 1998 Seven Oaks, Paso Robles - $15 (100,000 cases)
Villa Mt. Eden, 1997 Grand Reserve, Napa Valley - $19 (3,500 cases)
Red Blends
1. Harlan Estate, 1997 Napa Valley - $150 (Proprietary Red Blend of the Year): Even more spectacular than the awesome 1996 bottling, this rich, opulent, multidimensional blend (75 percent cabernet sauvignon, 15 percent merlot, 9 percent cabernet franc and 1 percent petit verdot) is the greatest example of the blender's art yet to emerge from a California winery. Seductively fragrant with enticing aromas of mocha, wild blackberry, cassis, cherry and anise. Full bodied with ripe, supple tannins, the Harlan impresses with its great depth and layers of extracted, almost dense flavors of black fruit meshed with dried lavender and brown spice and its rich, smooth texture. And while it pushes the envelope of ripeness, it never crosses the line, kept in balance by perfect acidity and well-integrated oak. (2,000 cases)
2. Joseph Phelps, 1998 Insignia, Napa Valley - $120: Compared to the spectacular 1997 bottling (last year's Proprietary Red Blend of the Year), the 1998 Insignia, the product of a difficult vintage, falls only a hair short of that mark. On its own, however, it is a wonderfully rich and supple wine, offering intense, complex aromas of cassis, blueberry and cherry enhanced by fruitcake-like spice, vanilla and a certain gaminess. Full bodied, round and concentrated with medium-full tannins, layered flavors of black fruits, spiced plum, mineral and an intriguing hint of red meat. Enjoyable now, but sure to gain complexity with another five years of cellaring. (14,000 cases)
3. St. Supéry, 1997 Red Meritage, Napa Valley - $50: Tasted blind in a flight of almost three dozen expensive, 1997 California cult Cabs, blends and cult wannabees, this Meritage readily stood out. Forward, appealing aromas of ripe blackberry and cassis, dark chocolate, cedar and subtle herbs. Full bodied and rich with medium-full tannins, the wine is brimming with high-extract black fruit flavors, notes of licorice, toasty oak and warm, loamy earth, finishing with a note of herbaceousness. Excellent depth and concentration. (4,186 cases)
Swanson, 1999 Alexis, Napa Valley - $50: Complex, appealing nose of blackberry, black cherry, raspberry, cassis and vanilla. Ultrarich and smooth on the palate with medium tannins, delivering deep, spicy flavors that replicate the nose accented with a gamy note imbued by the syrah. A flourish of vanilla in the finish. (4,000 cases)
Opus One, 1998 Napa Valley - $150: Elegant and supple with little or none of the barnyard notes of previous bottlings, offering fragrant scents of currant, vanilla and toasty oak. Aromas are repeated on the palate with a plummy edge and the addition of a subtle red meat quality. (25,000 cases)
Robert Craig Wine Cellars, 1998 Affinity, Napa Valley - $44: An elegant, mildly herbaceous blend reminiscent of a fine Médoc with a nose of berry
and black cherry, glove leather, brown spice and vanilla. Smooth, round, silky and rich with generous, slightly peppery flavors of currant and cherry, finishing with notes of anise and orange zest. Its lack of tannic edginess argues for early drinkability. (2,345 cases)
Conn Creek, 1997 Anthology, Napa Valley - $55: Fragrant, complex nose of ripe black cherry and blackberry, sweet spice, anise, leather and cedar cigar box. Rich and luscious with a great burst of integrated flavors showcasing black fruits, marinated cherry, cedar, anise, toasty oak and vanilla. A plush wine with a long, silky finish. (2,300 cases)
Beaulieu Vineyard, 1999 Beauzeaux, Napa Valley - $22 (3,600 cases)
Cardinale, 1998 Red Wine, Napa/Sonoma - $120 (1,100 cases)
Chateau St. Jean, 1998 Cinq Cépages - $70 (8,400 cases)
Dominus, 1998 Napa Valley - $100 (6,000 cases)
Dry Creek Vineyard, 1998 Meritage, Sonoma County - $28 (6,000 cases)
Duckhorn, 1998 Paraduxx (Zin-Cab-Merlot blend), Napa Valley - $40 (2,492 cases)
Ferrari-Carano, 1996 Trésor Reserve, Sonoma County - $65 (6,000 cases)
Io (Rhône blend), 1998 Santa Barbara County - $50 (1,452 cases)
Merryvale, 1998 Profile, Napa Valley - $90 (5,600 cases)
Robert Mondavi, 1999 Boomerang (Cab-Syrah blend), Oakville, Napa Valley - $60 (1000+ cases)
Pahlmeyer, 1997 Napa Valley - $80 (2,500 cases)
Quintessa, 1997 Rutherford - $100 (4,500 cases)
St. Clement, 1999 Oroppas - $50 (5,200 cases)
Vérité, 1998 Sonoma/Napa - $150 (1,956 cases)
Best Value Red Blends
1. Ravenswood, 1999 Icon, Sonoma County - $19 (Best Value Blend of the Year): Reminiscent of a well-endowed Châteauneuf-du-Pape with aromas of dark berry, black cherry and plum accented by cocoa and white pepper from the grenache. Loaded with white pepper-tinged, red cherry fruit. A hint of green olive in the finish. Generous and voluptuous with medium-ripe tannins. (5,549 cases)
2. Zaca Mesa, 1998 Z Cuvée, Santa Barbara County - $17: Nose of white pepper, red fruits and a hint of gaminess which is replicated on the palate, where a subtle green herbaceousness emerges. A sleek, Rhône-style blend. (2,300 cases)
Jade Mountain, 1998 La Provençale (Rhône blend), California - $16 (1,000 cases)
Preston, 1999 Faux (Rhône blend), Dry Creek Valley - $13 (2,750 cases)
Trentadue, 1999 Old Patch Red, California - $14 (1,000 cases)
Turnbull, 1997 Old Bull Red (Rhône blend), Oakville, Napa Valley - $15 (1,700 cases)
Merlot
1. Duckhorn, 1998 Estate Grown, Napa Valley - $75 (Merlot of the Year): Powerful, yet exquisitely balanced and deftly structured, this wine transcends the vintage with its big, rich, concentrated, highly extracted flavors of cassis and black cherry fruit, mocha, caramel, toast and spice. The nose, restrained at this point, hints at the ripe cherry, grated nutmeg, vanilla and exotic, mushroomy fragrances yet to come. Like a great Pomerol, this extraordinary Merlot needs plenty of time in the cellar to round out and unfold. (1,146 cases)
2. Beringer, 1997 Bancroft Ranch Private Reserve, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley - $75: Intense, appealing nose of ripe cassis, black cherry and dark berry, chocolate, brown spice, cedar and anise with overtones of smoky oak. Densely packed and bursting with ripe, black fruit extract, chocolate, brown spice, cedar, toasty oak and vanilla. A fleshy, chewy, mountain Merlot with firm tannins; built for the long term. Do not disturb for at least five years. (7,500 cases)
3. Jade Mountain, 1998 Caldwell Vineyard, Napa Valley - $38: Very fragrant nose of raspberry pie fresh from the oven with hints of green herbs and smoky oak. Fleshy, juicy and rich on the palate, offering black cherry fruit, roasted coffee bean and vanilla. A hedonistic, in-your-face Merlot with med-ium-full tannins that's drinkable now and capable of improving over the next five years. (1,235 cases)
Duckhorn, 1998 Three Palms Vineyard, Napa Valley - $65: A shade lighter than the blockbuster 1997 version (last year's Merlot of the Year), this wine offers distinctive, pleasantly funky scents of black cherry, oak char, tobacco leaf and an undertone of barnyard. Plush on the palate with medium tannins and deep, rich, ripe black cherry-cassis flavors enhanced by vanilla, olive tapenade and toasty oak. Long, plummy finish. (1,364 cases)
Shafer, 1998 Napa Valley - $36: A vibrant, fruit-forward Merlot that entices with its pleasant scents of red fruits, freshly crushed mint and just a touch of earthiness. Lively on the palate with good acidity,
yet plump and supple with medium tannins, the wine's nicely concentrated flavors echo the nose. (10,000 cases)
1998 Stonegate, Napa Valley - $22: Complex, attractive aromas of toasty oak, mild, green olive herbaceousness, lush black cherry fruit and mocha. Deeply extracted, yet finely balanced on the palate with varietal, mildly herbal flavors focusing on black fruits. (1,053 cases)
Ferrari-Carano, 1998 Sonoma County - $23 (35,000 cases)
Geyser Peak, 1998 Reserve, Alexander Valley - $40 (1,220 cases)
Greenwood Ridge, 1998 Mendocino Ridge - $24 (1,875 cases)
Kenwood, 1997 Massara Vineyard, Sonoma County - $25 (2,000 cases)
Luna, 1999 Napa Valley - $32 (6,400 cases)
Mason Cellars, 1998 Napa Valley - $24 (2,100 cases)
St. Clement, 1998 Napa Valley - $26 (2,000 cases)
St. Francis, 1998 Sonoma County - $25 (30,000 cases)
Swanson, 1999 Napa Valley - $30 (16,000 cases)
Best Value Merlots
1. Camelot, 1998 California - $10 (Best Value Merlot of the Year): Lush flavors of blueberry, plum and currants layered with cocoa, spice and cedar notes. Moderately rich and smooth on the palate with medium, ripe tannins. (40,000 cases)
2. Kendall-Jackson, 1998 Vintner's Reserve, California - $15: Clean, mildly spicy red fruit aromas lead to generous, varietal flavors of cherry-cassis fruit, a bit of toasty oak and very subtle herbaceousness. A well-made, quaffable, medium-bodied Merlot with easy tannins. (270,000 cases)
Blackstone, 1999 Napa Valley - $16 (25,000 cases)
Clos du Bois, 1998 Sonoma County - $17 (186,000 cases)
Estancia, 1998 California - $16 (30,000 cases)
Fetzer, 1998 Barrel Select, Sonoma County - $13 (24,000 cases)
Monterra, 1998 Monterey County - $10 (35,000 cases)
Pinot Noir
1. Goldeneye, 1998 Anderson Valley - $45 (Pinot Noir of the Year): Forward, smoky, spicy nose of dark berry and cherry with notes of warm earthiness and tobacco leaf. Rich, supple and elegant in the mouth, offering copious wild strawberry-black cherry fruit, subtle peppery spice and vanilla. A full bodied, fleshy Pinot with distinctive varietal character, mild tannins and exciting flavors. (1,046 cases)
2. La Crema, 1999 Sonoma Coast - $22: Violets, raspberry and black cherry define the elegant nose, enhanced by shy notes of clove and anise and framed by toasty oak. A beautifully crafted Pinot with generous flavors of raspberry, black cherry and plum, clove spice and vanilla. (35,000 cases)
3. Chalone Vineyard, 1999 Estate, Chalone - $35: Attractive aromas of fresh cherry and currant, pie crust, shy green herbs and slightly smoky oak. Medium bodied and velvety with medium tannins and nicely concentrated flavors that replicate the nose, finishing with a wisp of vanilla cream. More elegant than weighty, and eminently drinkable now. (6,400 cases)
Etude, 1999 Carneros - $40: Aromas of freshly crushed wild strawberry mingle with subtle, smoky oak and vanilla notes. Elegant, smooth and generous on the palate with good acidity and medium tannins, offering deep red fruit flavors enhanced by Asian spices. (5,000 cases)
Acacia, 1999 Carneros - $25: Forward, savory aromas of spice, red fruits and roasted meat. Rich and smooth with medium-full tannins and flavors of sweet cherry and Satsuma plum. (12,868 cases)
Sanford, 1999 Santa Barbara County - $26: Upfront, aromatic scents of almost kirsch-like cherry-berry fruit, vanilla and a hint of green stems. Velvety, rich and luscious with deep, persistent cherry-strawberry fruit highlighted by cloves, freshly grated nutmeg and a hint of white pepper. (7,000 cases)
Beaulieu Vineyard, 1999 Reserve, Carneros - $35 (4,200 cases)
Beringer, 1997 Stanly Ranch, Carneros - $30 (2,100 cases)
David Bruce, 1999 Santa Cruz Mountains - $30 (1,728 cases)
Calera, 1997 Mills Vineyard, Mt. Harlan - $55 (1,272 cases)
Merry Edwards, 1999 Russian River Valley - $32 (2,100 cases)
Gloria Ferrer, 1999 Carneros - $24 (5,300 cases)
Greenwood Ridge, 1999 Anderson Valley - $24 (1,000 cases)
Kenwood, 1998 Reserve, Olivet Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $30 (1,380 cases)
Morgan, 1999 Reserve, Santa Lucia Highlands - $38 (1,800 cases)
Sebastopol, 1999 Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley - $30 (2,400 cases)
Villa Mt. Eden, 1999 Grand Reserve, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley - $21 (2,700 cases)
Best Value Pinots
1. 1998 Meridian, Santa Barbara County - $13 (Best Value Pinot of the Year): Scents of toasty oak, exotic spice, black cherry-strawberry fruit and vanilla frame the nose. Richly textured with ripe, medium-full tannins, the wine offers slightly peppery red fruits and excellent balance and length. (5,000 cases)
2. Seven Peaks, 1998 San Luis Obispo/Santa Barbara Counties - $19: Lightly toasty nose of dark cherry and strawberry, vanilla, dried herbs, leather and tobacco leaf. The palate is rich and elegant with sweet red fruit and a wonderfully smooth texture. (1,334 cases)
Bouchaine, 2000 "B", California - $15 (3,002 cases)
Camelot, 2000 California - $10 (26,500 cases)
Echelon, 1999 Central Coast $13 (19,500 cases)
Edmeades, 1998 Anderson Valley - $16 (2,822 cases)
Estancia, 1999 Pinnacles, Monterey - $16 (23,000 cases)
Fetzer Vineyards, 2000 Five Rivers Ranch, Central Coast - $13 (14,000 cases)
Kendall-Jackson, 1999 Vintner's Reserve, California - $12 (49,000 cases)
Syrah (& Petites)
1. Truchard, 1998 Carneros - $32 (Syrah of the Year): Forward, intensely fragrant nose of freshly crushed blackberry and black cherry, sweet oak and savory white pepper, accented with pleasant earthy, leathery and smoky nuances. On the palate, this classy, richly textured Syrah is brimming with jammy black fruits plus a hint of blueberry. Freshly cracked black pepper notes emerge in the extended finish. Superb. (1,248 cases)
2. Geyser Peak, 1998 Reserve Shiraz, Sonoma County - $40: An exuberant Syrah with fragrant scents of ripe boysenberry and blackberry, white pepper, brown spice, mocha, black licorice and a hint of warm, loamy earthiness. The palate possesses tremendous power and depth, offering plump, ripe blackberry fruit, a hint of tar and intriguing white pepper spice, all nestled in a rich robe of texture; supple, medium-full tannins. (1,500 cases)
3. McDowell, 1999 Reserve, Mendocino - $24: Intense, deep, inviting aromas of cocoa and freshly crushed blackberry and cassis. Smooth and velvety with medium tannins, the wine's generous flavors focus on ripe berry, mocha and brown spice, finishing with a flourish of vanilla. (2,117 cases)
Joseph Phelps, 1997 Napa Valley - $35: Forward, rich, intense, plummy, peppery, cassis-blackberry aromas are replicated on the palate with a meaty enhancement. Full bodied, rich and luscious with medium-full tannins and a long finish. (1,500 cases)
Hanna, 1997 Bismark Ranch, Sonoma Valley - $45: Very aromatic, offering ripe blackberry and cassis fruit, white pepper, roasted red meat and vanillin oak. Full bodied and voluptuous with jammy blackberry fruit and a touch of earthiness, this is a bold, blockbuster Syrah that fairly swaggers at 15.9 percent alcohol. (1,002 cases)
Stags' Leap Winery, 1998 Petite Syrah, Napa Valley - $32: Opulent and powerful, this flagship wine boasts a wonderfully integrated structure that resulted from vinifying the components - petite sirah, syrah, viognier and carignane - together. Intense aromas of black cherry-blackberry fruit, spicy plum and orange peel. Rich, ripe flavors of black cherry, raspberry, coffee bean and brown spice. (14,000 cases)
Bridlewood, 1999 Central Coast - $20 (6,839 cases)
Cambria, 1999 Tepusquet Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley - $22 (3,000 cases)
Eberle, 1999 Steinbeck Vineyard, Paso Robles - $20 (1,549 cases)
Guenoc, 1998 Petite Sirah, North Coast - $20 (7,925 cases)
Havens, 1998 Carneros - $26 (1,000 cases)
Lolonis, 1998 Orpheus Petite Sirah, Redwood Valley - $28 (1,800 cases)
Ojai, 1999 California - $23 (1,000 cases)
Fess Parker, 1999 Santa Barbara County - $20 (6,800 cases)
Rosenblum, 1999 Petite Sirah, Pickett Road, Napa Valley - $24 (1,050 cases)
Simi, 1999 Shiraz, Sonoma County - $20 (3,194 cases)
Stags' Leap Winery, 1998 Napa Valley - $25 (1,050 cases)
Best Value Syrahs
1. Echelon, 1999 California - $13 (Best Value Syrah of the Year): Forward scents of ripe, jammy blackberry fruit mingled with notes of white chocolate and black pepper. Medium to full bodied and luscious with copious ripe dark berry fruit and oak spice. (23,400 cases)
2. Bonterra, 1998 Mendocino - $19: Aromatic nose of freshly crushed black raspberry, cinnamon-clove spice and vanilla toast. Rich and chewy with medium-full tannins and lots of dark berry fruit and a hint of black pepper. A bold, smoky Syrah best paired with hearty, robust foods. (6,200 cases)
3. McDowell, 1999 Mendocino - $12: Black cherry and berry fruit, leather and dried herbs in the nose. Round and supple with medium-full tannins and rich flavors of bright cherry-berry fruit, a hint of warm earthiness and peppery spice. (14,500 cases)
J. Lohr Estates, 1999 Syrah "South Ridge," Paso Robles - $15: Blackberry, clove, bacon, licorice and orange peel aromas. Intensely flavored and extracted with bright, lively dark berry fruit and a hint of orange peel in the finish; medium tannins and good acidity. (10,300 cases)
Anapamu, 1999 Syrah, Paso Robles - $16: Peppery, ripe black cherry and blackberry aromas. Big, rich and jammy on the palate with lots of highly extracted blackberry fruit and notes of vanilla, tobacco leaf and white pepper. (5,860 cases)
Baileyana, 1999 Paso Robles - $18 (2,050 cases)
Beaulieu Vineyard, 1999 California - $15 (12,000 cases)
David Bruce, 1999 Petite Syrah, Central Coast - $16 (13,043 cases)
Geyser Peak, 1998 Shiraz, Sonoma County - $17 (5,100 cases)
Kendall-Jackson, 1999 Vintner's Reserve, California - $12 (25,500 cases)
Meridian, 1998 Paso Robles - $15 (1,300 cases)
Montpellier, 1999 Syrah, California - $7 (8,000 cases)
Pepperwood Grove, 1999 California - $8 (25,000 cases)
Qupé, 1999 Central Coast - $15 (10,000 cases)
Shooting Star, 1999 Lake County - $12 (4,000 cases)
Zinfandel
1. Folie à Deux, 1998 La Grande Folie, Harvey Vineyard, Amador County - $44 (Zinfandel of the Year): From Amador Zin specialist Scott Harvey, this rich, well-stuffed wine from 129-year-old vines offers a distinctive, appealing nose of super-ripe blackberry and hints of gaminess and peppery spice. Lush and extracted without being heavy, the wine floods the palate with smooth, copious berry fruit, a bit of orange peel and black pepper. Never hot or out of balance with medium-full tannins. (1,000 cases)
2. Rosenblum, 1999 Rockpile Road Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley - $22: Aromas of very ripe black cherry-blackberry fruit, anise, orange zest and freshly cracked black pepper. Lush and juicy on the palate, and brimming with sweet berry fruit, accented by notes of mocha and pepper; firmly tannic, requiring a few years of cellaring. (2,350 cases)
3. Fife, 1999 Old Vines, Napa Valley $23: Rich, intense, chocolate-tinged aromas of ripe raspberry and black cherry with tobacco leaf and vanilla bean notes. A bit rustic on the palate, compensated by abundant, super-ripe berry fruit that never becomes raisiny. (2,800 cases)
Cline, 1998 Live Oak Vineyard, Contra Costa County - $28: Rich scents of spicy American oak and ripe blackberry fruit define the nose. Massively structured and packed with super-ripe berry fruit that pushes the opulence envelope. This is heady Zin awash in richness and flavor; almost a late-harvest style. (1,331 cases)
Louis M. Martini, 1999 Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $30: Big, upfront aromas of clove spice, bright raspberry fruit and a hint of white pepper. Round and luscious on the palate with lots of spice and ripe berry-cassis fruit. (1,000 cases)
Clos Du Val, 1999 Palisade Vineyard, Stags Leap District - $28: Toasty nose of pie crust and berry-cassis fruit. Medium to full bodied and fairly rich with extracted berry-cassis fruit and plenty of peppery spice. (1,000 cases)
Cosentino, 1999 The Zin, California - $28 (2,324 cases)
Dry Creek Vineyard, 1998 Reserve, Dry Creek Valley - $30 (2,450 cases)
Limerick Lane, 1999 Collins Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $26 (2,750 cases)
J. Lohr, 1999 Old Vines Bramblewood, Lodi - $20 (2,500 cases)
Pezzi King, 1999 Dry Creek Valley - $27 (1,600 cases)
Rancho Zabaco, 1999 Stefani Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley - $22 (4,000 cases)
Renwood, 1998 Grandpere Vineyard, Amador County - $32 (1,973 cases)
Rosenblum, 1999 Alegria Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $26 (1,250 cases)
St. Francis, 1999 Old Vines, Sonoma County - $24 (24,000 cases)
Seghesio, 1999 Cortina, Dry Creek Valley - $33 (1,850 cases)
Best Value Zins
1. Beaulieu Vineyard, 1999 Napa Valley - $14 (Best Value Zin of the Year): Attractive nose of sweet red berry, brown spice, black pepper and mildly toasty oak. Well-defined palate of rich blackberry-raspberry fruit and peppery spice, leading to a mocha-tinged finish. Bright, fresh and wonderfully balanced; for all of its 14.6 percent alcohol, it's not at all Port-like. (12,000 cases)
2. Ravenswood, 1999 Vintner's Blend, California - $10: Pleasant scents of fruity raspberry and cherry with a subtle spice note and nuances of vanilla and
slightly toasty oak. Nicely spicy in the mouth with raspberry-black cherry fruit. Well-balanced, claret style Zin that's great for pizza and burgers.
(340,000 cases)
Cartlidge and Browne, 1999 California - $10 (8,000 cases)
Chateau Souverain, 1999 Dry Creek Valley - $13 (9,500 cases)
Cline, 1999 California - $10 (86,000 cases)
Dry Creek Vineyard, 1999 Heritage Clone, Sonoma County - $15 (10,000 cases)
Eos, 1998 Paso Robles - $15 (8,800 cases)
Gallo of Sonoma, 1998 Dry Creek Valley - $13 (29,000 cases)
Kenwood, 1999 Sonoma County - $15 (12,735 cases)
Rosenblum, NV Vintners Cuvée XXIII, California - $10 (12,000 cases)
Seghesio, 1999 Sonoma County - $16 (38,000 cases)
Trinchero Estates, 1999 Trinity Oaks, California - $10 (40,000 cases)
Chardonnay
1. Patz & Hall, 1999 Hyde Vineyard, Carneros - $50 (Chardonnay of the Year): Forward, intense aromas of creamy citrus, green apple, honeysuckle, toasted hazelnut and vanilla with a mineral nuance. Luxurious and rich on the palate with an astounding purity of fruit and captivating flavors of Mandarin orange, tangerine and lemon curd with light butterscotch notes. Complex and superbly balanced, this unfiltered Chardonnay constantly evolves with airing and deserves to be decanted; long, lingering finish. (1,100 cases)
2. Guenoc, 1999 Genevieve Magoon Vineyard Unfiltered Reserve "Tutu," Guenoc Valley - $40: Rich aromas of honeycomb, apricot, white peach, spicy pear and apple with wisps of crème brûlée and minerals. Round, plush and viscous with abundant creamy citrus and stone fruits, along with a characteristic mineral component from the vineyard. (1,886 cases)
3. Chalone Vineyard, 1999 Estate, Chalone - $26: Lightly toasty nose of green apple, honeysuckle and hazelnut with a whiff of wet pebble minerality. Round and juicy with a medium-full body and excellent acidity, the wine delivers deep, nicely concentrated flavors of creamy citrus and apricot, finishing with a toasted hazelnut flourish. (24,310 cases)
Shafer, 1999 Red Shoulder Ranch, Carneros - $37: Big and bold with slatherings of oak and opulent fruit. Enticing aromas of tropical fruit and citrus, medium-high charred oak and lees. Full bodied with rich flavors that echo the nose, along with notes of kiwi, pineapple and vanilla. With no malolactic fermentation to lower acidity, this full-blown Chardonnay is quite a mouthful, yet it retains a crispness that balances the richness imparted by barrel fermentation. (7,000 cases)
Beringer, 1999 Sbragia Limited Release, Napa Valley - $40: Always the biggest and boldest Chardonnay in the Beringer line-up, this single-vineyard version offers forward, buttery aromas of ripe citrus, toasty oak, honeycomb, nutmeg and caramel. Creamy, rich and viscous on the palate and layered with flavors of spicy apple, lemon zest, subtle butterscotch and vanilla. (2,800 cases)
Calera, 1997 Mt. Harlan - $38: Very much in the French style with its sleek body and mineral undertones. Opens with lots of smoky oak, which gradually eases to reveal aromas of lemon cream and tangerine. Round and creamy on the palate with ripe tropical fruit and citrus flavors underscored by a mountain terroir minerality. Poised to gain even more complexity with several years of cellaring. (1,748 cases)
Babcock, 1999 Santa Barbara County - $18 (2,700 cases)
Beringer, 1999 Private Reserve, Napa Valley - $35 (20,000 cases)
Chateau Montelena, 1998 Napa Valley - $33 (9,000 cases)
Far Niente, 1999 Estate, Napa Valley - $52 (21,500 cases)
Ferrari-Carano, 1999 Alexander Valley - $25 (40,000 cases)
La Crema, 1999 Russian River Valley - $30 (1,052 cases)
Kendall-Jackson, 1999 Camelot Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley - $17 (22,098 cases)
Kenwood, 1999 Reserve, Sonoma County - $20 (1,425 cases)
Laetitia, 1999 Arroyo Grande Valley - $18 (2,000 cases)
Merryvale, 1999 Starmont, Napa Valley - $19 (27,000 cases)
Patz & Hall, 1999 Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley - $36 (2,400 cases)
Pezzi King, 1999 Sonoma County - $19 (4,000 cases)
Sanford, 1999 Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, Santa Barbara County - $28 (1,323 cases)
Sterling, 1999 Reserve, Napa Valley - $40 (1,095 cases)
Best Value Chards
1. Bonterra, 2000 Mendocino County - $15 (Best Value Chardonnay of the Year): Forward scents of spicy green apple and succulent, ripe pear. Mouthfilling with loads of flavor that replicate the nose. A generous, well-proportioned Mendocino Chardonnay with silky texture and crisp acidity. (75,000 cases) >
2. Navarro, 1999 Mendocino - $14: Pleasant nose of lightly toasted hazelnut, Fuji apple and ripe pear. Delicious expression of fruit purity in this juicy wine with just a hint of oak in the finish. (3,452 cases)
Fetzer, 1999 Barrel Select, Mendocino County - $13: Aromas of lemony citrus and tropical fruit with whiffs of mineral. Rich and creamy with similar flavors. (62,000 cases)
St. Francis, 1999 California Selection, Sonoma County - $13: Crisp and citrusy with mild oak and refreshing acidity. Pleasant melon and tropical fruit on the nose. Medium bodied with ripe fruit flavors that echo the nose. (60,000 cases)
Blackstone, 2000 Monterey County
- $10 (45,000 cases)
Canyon Road, 2000 California - $8 (105,000 cases)
Echelon, 2000 Central Coast - $12 (65,000 cases)
Hess Select, 1999 California - $11 (170,000 cases)
Jekel Vineyards, 1999 Gravelstone, Winemaker's Collection, Monterey - $11 (54,000 cases)
Rodney Strong, 2000 Sonoma County - $14 (100,000 cases)
Sauvignon Blanc
1. Voss Vineyards, 2000 Napa Valley - $16 (Sauvignon Blanc of the Year): Forward, intense, uncompromisingly varietal nose of pink grapefruit, lemon zest, pear and passion fruit, freshly chopped green chile and bell pepper with hints of white flowers and minerals. Mouth-filling with a smooth texture and rich entry, this boldly flavored, New Zealand-inspired effort is pure and clean on the palate, delivering lots of citrus and tropical fruit with an appealing grassy edge; excellent acidity; lean, crisp, lemon-lime finish. (6,800 cases)
2. St. Supéry, 2000 Napa Valley - $15: Aromas of ripe melon, lime and freshly cut grass fairly burst from the glass. Intense and focused on the palate with flavors echoing the nose, especially lime citrus. Wonderfully grassy; crisp, grapefruit finish. (31,500 cases)
3. Selene, 2000 Hyde Vineyards, Carneros - $24: Complex nose of spicy lemon curd, anise, melon, peach and tangerine, accented by notes of jasmine and light toast. Rich and flashy on the palate delivering spicy flavors that echo the nose.
(1,800 cases)
Mason Cellars, 2000 Napa Valley - $16: Fragrant, appealing nose of garden herbs, grapefruit rind, lemon zest and ripe pear. Complex, zesty and moderately rich on the palate with bright acidity, offering pear nectar-like fruit, subtle green herbs reminiscent of chopped watercress and parsley, and hints of fig, melon and flint. (18,000 cases)
Duckhorn, 1999 Napa Valley - $20: Pleasant aromas of lemon, lime zest, melon, pear, mango and apricot accented by honeysuckle, minerals and a hint of green grass. Juicy and well-balanced with good acidity and expressive, fruity flavors that replicate the nose; rich, lingering finish. (14,889 cases)
Babcock, 1999 Eleven Oaks, Santa Barbara County - $23: Very grassy - almost extreme - aromas suggesting pink grapefruit, gooseberry, green apple, honeydew melon and jalapeño pepper. Much like an intense Sancerre, exhibiting minerals on entry, a rich middle of melon and citrus with grassy tones, a touch of oak and excellent acidity. (1,211 cases)
Dry Creek Vineyard, 1999 Reserve Fumé Blanc, Dry Creek Valley - $18: Distinctive, attractive nose of white pepper, smoke, apricot and lemon grass with grassy undertones. Generous on the palate with excellent acidity, offering rich, delicious flavors of lemon tart, white pepper, toasted hazelnut and vanilla. Fine integration of oak. (4,500 cases)
Bernardus, 1999 Monterey County - $15 (6,586 cases)
Cain Vineyard, 1999 Musqué, Ventana Vineyard, Monterey - $20 (2,400 cases)
Chateau St. Jean, 1999 Fumé Blanc, La Petite Etoile Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $20 (2,900 cases)
Dry Creek Vineyard, 1999 Reserve Fumé Blanc, Dry Creek Valley - $18 (4,500 cases)
Flora Springs, 1999 Soliloquy, Napa Valley - $20 (1,000 cases)
Gainey, 1999 Limited Selection, Santa Ynez Valley - $22 (2,074 cases)
Robert Mondavi, 1998 Stags Leap District - $18 (1,000+ cases)
Rancho Zabaco, 1999 Russian River Valley - $16 (1,850 cases)
Rochioli, 2000 Russian River Valley - $22 (2,472 cases)
Matanzas Creek, 1999 Sonoma County - $22 (9,800 cases)
Napa Wine Co., 2000 Napa Valley - $18 (2,000 cases)
Best Value Sauvignons
1. Geyser Peak, 2000 Sonoma County - $10 (Best Value Sauvignon Blanc of the Year): Attractive, moderately grassy aromas of ripe melon, grapefruit and guava. Juicy, round and generous in the mouth with crisp acidity and pleasantly grassy flavors that echo the nose. Excellent value. (54,000 cases)
2. Dry Creek Vineyard, 2000 Fumé Blanc, Sonoma County - $13: Fresh, forward, enticing aromas of lemon grass, freshly chopped bell pepper and lemon. Bright and lively on the palate with excellent acidity, offering flavors of lemon-lime citrus, white melon and guava enhanced by green herbs. (33,500 cases)
3. Canyon Road, 2000 California - $8: Forward, varietal nose of lemon grass and white grapefruit with notes of passion fruit and orange blossom. Imbued with zesty acidity, the flavors replicate the nose and are deep and lingering. A well-made Sauvignon Blanc at an incredible price. (27,200 cases)
Chateau St. Jean, 2000 Fumé Blanc, Sonoma County - $13: Fresh aromas of lemon grass, white melon and pear are replicated on the palate with the addition of lemon zest, nectarine, green herbs and a note of straw. A full-bodied Fumé. (22,000 cases)
Montevina, 2000 Fumé Blanc, California - $7: Bright, attractive, varietal nose of honeydew melon, grapefruit, chopped fresh asparagus and shy spice. Refreshingly dry and well balanced with melon-like fruit and a spicy, slightly grassy finish. A lot of Sauvignon for the money. (10,000 cases)
Jepson, 1999 Estate Select, Mendocino County - $11: Attractive, fruity scents of ripe peach and citrus with a subtle green herb note. Bright and lively flavors of citrus, ripe honeydew melon and peach; excellent acidity. (6,300 cases)
Barnwood, 2000 Santa Barbara County - $14 (3,700 cases)
Brander, 1999 Santa Ynez Valley - $12 (1,400 cases)
Chateau Souverain, 1999 Alexander Valley - $12 (14,500 cases)
Fetzer, 2000 Echo Ridge, California - $9 (90,000 cases)
Greenwood Ridge, 1999 Anderson Valley - $14 (1,350 cases)
Groth, 1999 Napa Valley - $14 (19,500 cases)
Hanna, 1999 Russian River Valley - $14 (5,000 cases)
Navarro, 2000 Cuvée 128, Mendocino - $14 (1,502 cases)
Sanford, 2000 Central Coast - $14 (7,000 cases)
Simi, 1999 Sonoma County - $13 (11,000 cases)
It should go without saying that I did not sample every California wine released in 2001. Such a feat is next to impossible. Besides which, at press time, there were still some major trade tastings in the offing. Consequently, there are sure to be other great wines released toward year's end worthy of inclusion in this list. I'll leave it up to the reader to nominate the rest.
Limited Production wines
(The highest-rated wine in each category is noted in bold type) - Steve Pitcher
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Bryant Family, 1997 Pritchard Hill,Napa Valley - $120 (975 cases)
Beringer, 1997 125/25 Anniversary, St. HelenaHome Vineyard, Napa Valley -$125 (750 cases)
Beaulieu Vineyard, 1997 Clone 4,Rutherford - $130 (290 cases)
Cafaro, 1997 Reserva - $90 (260 cases)
Cakebread Cellars, 1997 Three Sisters,Napa Valley - $85 (300 cases)
Chateau St. Jean, 1996 Reserve,Sonoma County - $90 (475 cases)
Cosentino Winery, 1997 Reserve, Napa Valley- $80 (513 cases)
Duckhorn, Estate Grown, Monitor Ledge Vineyard, Napa Valley - $90 (349 cases)
Ferrari-Carano, 1996 Vineyards of TreMonte,Alexander Valley - $35 (800 cases)
Flora Springs, 1997 Rutherford HillsideReserve, Napa Valley - $85 (905 cases)
Greenwood Ridge, 1997 Mendocino Ridge - $24 (360 cases)
Guenoc, 1997 Reserve, Bella Vista Vineyard,Napa Valley - $41 (728 cases)
PlumpJack, 1998 Oakville Reserve - $145 (600 cases, half in screw-top bottles)
Screaming Eagle, 1998 Napa Valley - $250 (500 cases)
Whitehall Lane, 1998 Leonardini Vineyard,Napa Valley - $85 (278 cases)
RED BLENDS
Dalla Valle, 1998 Maya, Napa Valley - $125 (500)
Alexander Valley Vineyards, 1997 Cyrus, Alexander Valley - $50 (750 cases)
Babcock, 1999 Fathom, Santa Barbara County - $35 (883 cases)
CE2V, 1997 Meritage, Napa Valley - $75 (230 cases)
Harlan Estate, 1998 Napa Valley - $175 (749 cases)
Livingston Moffett, 1998 Gemstone Vineyard, Napa Valley - $75 (435 cases)
Merryvale, 1998 Beckstoffer Vineyard Selection, Napa Valley - $60 (950 cases)
Stags' Leap Winery, 1997 Ne Cede Malis, Estate Grown Reserve, Napa Valley - $50 (400 cases)
MERLOT
Hartwell, 1999 Estate, Stags Leap District - $60 (400 cases)
Beaucanon Estate, 1998 Jacques de Coninck Selection, Napa Valley - $65 (564 cases)
Beringer, 1998 Bancroft Ranch, Private Reserve, Howell Mountain - $100+ (750 cases)
Chateau St. Jean, 1996 Reserve, Sonoma County - $90 (460 cases)
Cosentino, 1999 Estate, Oakville - $90 (350 cases)
PINOT NOIR
Sanford, 1999 Barrel Select, La Rinconada Vineyard, Santa Barbara County - $50 (701 cases)
Baileyana, 1999 Firepeak Vineyard, Edna Valley - $38 (391 cases)
Barnett, 1999 Santa Lucia Highlands - $30 (280 cases)
Merry Edwards, 1999 Windsor Gardens, Russian River Valley - $54 (400 cases)
Foxen, 1998 Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley - $30 (300 cases)
Gainey, 1998 Limited Selection, Santa Maria Valley - $35 (700 cases)
Handley, 1998 Estate Reserve, Anderson Valley - $48 (278 cases)
Miner Family, 1999 Garys', Santa Lucia Highlands - $50 (800 cases)
Renteria, 1998 Carneros - $44 (61 cases)
Sanford, 1999 Barrel Select, Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, Santa Barbara County - $43 (704 cases)
SYRAH
Lewis Cellars, 1998 Napa Valley - $45 (450 cases)
Baileyana, 1999 Firepeak Vineyard, Edna Valley - $38 (591 cases)
Bridlewood, 1998 Winner's Circle Selection, Central Coast - $25 (330 cases)
Robert Craig, 1998 Paso Robles - $24 (504 cases)
Justin Vineyards, 1998 MacGillivray Vineyard, Paso Robles - $23 (365 cases)
Livingston Moffett, 1999 Mitchell Vineyard, Napa Valley - $35 (824 cases)
Lonetree, 1998 Mendocino County - $20 (488 cases)
Michael Martella, 1999 Hammer, California - $24 (695 cases)
Montevina, 1998 Amador County - $10 (600 cases)
Robert Pecota, 1998 Monterey County - $24 (600 cases)
Rosenblum, 1999 Petite Sirah, Rockpile Road Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley - $25 (75 cases)
Rosenblum, 1999 England-Shaw Vineyard, Solano County - $24 (425 cases)
Sierra Vista Winery, 1997 Five Star Reserve, Sierra Foothills - $60 (150 cases)
Steele Wines, 1998 Lake County - $19 (850 cases)
Swanson, 1998 Napa Valley - $45 (811 cases)
ZINFANDEL
Edmeades, 1998 Ciapusci Vineyard, Mendocino Ridge - $25 (225 cases)
Benessere Vineyards, 1999 Black Glass Vineyard, Napa Valley - $35 (117 cases)
Robert Biale, 1998 Old Crane Ranch, Napa Valley - $34 (600 cases)
Claudia Springs, 1999 Vassar Vineyard, Redwood Valley, Mendocino - $20 (390 cases)
Cline, 1999 Live Oak Vineyard, Contra Costa County - $28 (984 cases)
Geyser Peak, 1999 Block Collection, De Ambrogio Ranch, Cucamonga Valley - $23 (550 cases)
Greenwood Ridge, 1999 Scherrer Vineyard, Sonoma County - $24 (600 cases)
Hartford Court, 1998 Dina's Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $32 (340 cases)
Hartford Court, 1999 Highwire Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $32 (550 cases)
Louis M. Martini, 1998 Gnarly Vine, Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $40 (800 cases)
1998 Villa Mt. Eden, Grand Reserve, Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $21 (900 cases)
CHARDONNAY
Babcock, 1999 Grand Cuvée, Santa Barbara County - $25 (436 cases)
Chateau St. Jean, 1998 Reserve, Sonoma County - $45 (470 cases)
Geyser Peak, 1999 Block Collection, Ricci Vineyard, Carneros - $20 (620 cases)
Greenwood Ridge, 1999 DuPratt Vineyard, Mendocino Ridge - $24 (700 cases)
Lockwood, 1997 Very Special Reserve Estate, Monterey - $35 (512 cases)
Mayo Family Winery, 2000 Laurel Hill Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $22 (393 cases)
Patz & Hall, 2000 Alder Springs Vineyard, Mendocino County - $55 (500 cases)
Villa Mt. Eden, 1998 Signature Series, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley - $32 (750 cases)
Robert Young Estate Winery, 1999 Alexander Valley - $35 (937 cases)
SAUVIGNON BLANC
Araujo, 1999 Eisele Vineyard, Napa Valley - $28 (512 cases)
Brander, 1999 Au Naturel, Santa Ynez Valley - $30 (280 cases)
Crystal Valley Cellars, 2000 Mohr-Fry Vineyards, California - $13 (918 cases)
Ferrari-Carano, 1999 Storey Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $15 (600 cases)
Lorenza-Lake Winery, 1999 Blockheadia Ringnosi, Napa Valley - $18 (229 cases)
Based in San Francisco, Contributing Editor Steve Pitcher is vice president of the Vintners Club and president of the Bay Area chapter of the German Wine Society. He can be reached via e-mail at wine2words@aol.com.
