The more-than-century-old bush vines entrenched in d’Arenberg’s estate vineyard yield modest quantities of highly flavored grenache, coveted by winemakers and kangaroos alike.
Best Wines of 2005
By Steve PitcherLast year in this space, I made the audacious pronouncement that, based on the performance of Cabernet Sauvignon, California's 2001 vintage had eclipsed the spectacular vintages of 1994, 1997 and 1999 in terms of quality, and was clearly the greatest vintage in the state's history. Fortunately, in the interim, I haven't been forced to eat those words, which gives me the courage to state unequivocally that vintage 2002 is on a par with 2001 - maybe even a bit better. The wines pretty much speak for themselves, and the proof is in the glass. Two truly great years back to back. It doesn't get much better for lovers of California wine.
If there is a drawback, it's that prices edged up for some of the so-called "trophy" wines of vintage 2002. That's a small consideration for collectors, however, inasmuch as prices remained rather steady for most of the state's wines, and bargains are still to be found.
In this year's report, there are some important changes in format. Gone are the "Best Value" and "Limited Production" categories. Instead, within each varietal category, wines are evaluated purely in terms of quality, regardless of price or case production (the former always disclosed, and the latter noted when readily available). There is now a separate first-place position for a "Wine of the Year" within each wine style; they stand alone because of the clearly evident extraordinary character that lifted them slightly above the field. An accompanying "Top Ten" section follows with each wine listed alphabetically along with tasting notes; these wines are deemed "Outstanding" to "Superb," and fall into the 90 to 100 point range within the magazine's BuyLine scoring system. Wines listed without description as companions to the "Top Ten" fall within the same range, but are slightly eclipsed in quality by the described wines.
Also for the first time, wines rated and described by the magazine's BuyLine panel were considered for inclusion, but only those also tasted separately by me became candidates for the final list. Wines that carry the initials "BL" indicate a BuyLine selection, and include the panel's notes. All other wines are my selections alone, painstakingly culled from hundreds of tasting notes recorded throughout the year. While some of the wines were tasted blind, the majority were not. Publication deadlines precluded consideration of any wines released after October 28. Here, then, on the pages that follow, are the best California wines I encountered in 2005.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet of the Year
Shafer, 2001 Hillside Select, Stags Leap District - $175: The most magnificent Hillside Select ever, perfect in every respect. Intensely aromatic scents of concentrated cassis-black cherry fruit, mild peppery herbaceousness and notes of vanilla and roasted coffee bean. Big, lush and velvety in the mouth with medium-full yet supple tannins. Complex, layered flavors resonate from a deep core of ripe, succulent black fruit enhanced by dark chocolate, dried herbs, vanilla and a certain hillside minerality that extends into the long finish. Powerful, yet exquisitely balanced with fresh acidity. Exciting and appealing to drink now with the stuffing to age gracefully over the next 10 to 15 years. (2,500 cases)
Top Ten Cabernets of the Year
Andrew Geoffrey Vineyards, 2002 Diamond Mountain District - $75: Distinctive nose of briary brambleberry accented with bright blueberry and loamy earthiness. Deeply flavored and viscous with ripe, medium-full tannins, this muscular Cab brims with concentrated dark berry-cassis fruit and finishes with subtle notes of white chocolate and white pepper. (1,660 cases)
Caymus, 2002 Special Selection, Napa Valley - $136: Expressive aromas of sweet, ripe black currant and black cherry laced with mocha, violets, dried herbs and warm spice. Velvety in texture and deeply extracted, offering layers of cassis and blackberry, spice and mocha flavors, along with nicely integrated French oak. Wonderfully proportioned showing firm, fine-grain tannins and an exotic note of freshly crushed sage in the aftertaste. (8,800 cases)
Caymus, 2002 Napa Valley - $70: Attractive, complex nose of cassis, black cherry and freshly crushed berries with notes of nutmeg, cocoa and cedar. Nearly as extracted as the Special Selection, with medium-full tannins and similar flavors of ripe black fruit, spice and creamy oak. An extremely complex wine that unfolds sip after sip, and shows a hint of blueberry in the extended finish. (29,980 cases)
Constant, 2001 Diamond Mountain Vineyard, Diamond Mountain District - $85: Enticing, complex aromas of ripe cassis, black cherry, dark plum and mocha, plus a subtle note of fresh tarragon. Generous and richly textured with bold, extracted flavors of cassis and black cherry tinged by blueberry, oak spice and minerals with medium-full tannins that are ripe and supple. (970 cases)
Dalla Valle, 2002 Napa Valley - $100: Cabernet franc (10%) works its magic in this voluptuous wine. Fragrant and appealing aromas of dark raspberry, cassis, plum and bittersweet chocolate are replicated on the palate, accented by notes of peppery spice and anise. Sweet, rich and chewy in the mouth with supple tannins and refreshing acidity; finishes with a hint of smoke and mint. (900 cases)
Diamond Creek, 2002 Volcanic Hill, Napa Valley - $175: Deep, wonderfully fragrant aromas of cassis, violets and mocha accented with notes of cigar box, vanilla and toasty oak. Rich, luscious and concentrated with medium-full, ripe, velvety tannins and copious black fruit flavors that are amazingly deep and lingering; warm spice and a hint of mint enhance the finish. Built for the long term. (573 cases)
Etude, 2002 Napa Valley - $90: Always exhibiting exquisitely opulent texture, the 2002 is even more impressive on that score than past efforts, and is absolutely irresistible at this early stage of development. Complex, enticing, wildly aromatic nose of mocha, dried lavender, sour cherry and blackberry with a subtle dusting of white pepper. A lush entry engages the palate with delectable flavors suggested by the nose, accented by roasted coffee bean and brown spice; the flavors reach nearly kirsch-like concentration and the ripe, medium-full tannins never intrude. Mocha notes emerge in the extended close. A superbly seamless Cab. (4,500 cases)
Lokoya, 2002 Diamond Mountain District - $120: Intriguing nose of tobacco leaf and subtle green olive, raspberry-cassis fruit, moderately toasty oak, red meat and lead pencil. Complex, ultraplush and concentrated with deep, vibrant flavors that replicate the nose and firm, velvety tannins. An elegant, focused, 100 percent Cab with excellent aging potential over the next 10 to 12 years. (440 cases)
Marston, 2002 Spring Mountain District - $80: The panel awarded the 2001 95 points, yet the '02 is even better. Bursts of mint and blueberry aromas followed by plum, coconut and olive. A prototypical mountain Cab with layers of cherry, plum and mineral flavors that kept improving with air. Polished tannins and crisp acids elevate the hillside fruit. (500 cases) Publisher's Pick - BL
Von Strasser, 2002 Post Vineyard, Diamond Mountain District - $60: Forward, enticing aromas of toasty oak, red meat, cassis-black cherry fruit and dried lavender. Very complex and concentrated with luscious blackberry-cassis fruit tinged with dried herbs, subtle mocha and ripe, supple tannins. (1,900 cases)
Other Outstanding Cabernets
Cakebread, 2002 Dancing Bear Ranch, Howell Mountain - $75 (700 cases)
Chappellet, 2002 Pritchard Hill Estate Vineyard,Napa Valley - $120 (1,300 cases) - BL
Chateau St. Jean 2000 Reserve, Sonoma County- $90 (334 cases) - BL
Robert Craig, 2002 Howell Mountain- $50 (1,200 cases)
DiGiulio, 2002 Diamond Mountain District - $85 (220 cases)
Duckhorn, 2002 Napa Valley - $60 (7,653 cases)
Far Niente, 2002 Oakville - $110 (8,100 cases)
Hanna, 2001 Bismark Mountain Vineyard,Sonoma Valley - $61 (635 cases) - BL
Hartwell, 2002 Stags Leap District - $115 (740 cases)
Ladera, 2002 Howell Mountain - $65 (710 cases)
La Jota, 2002 Anniversary Release Howell Mountain- $90 (1,000 cases)
Cliff Lede, 2002 Stags Leap District- $50 (1,622 cases) - BL
Monticello, 2002 Tietjen Vineyard, Rutherford- $50 (500 cases)
Nickel & Nickel, 2002 Vogt Vineyard,Howell Mountain - $75 (1,112 cases)
Peacock Family, 2002 Spring Mountain District- $60 (596 cases)
Joseph Phelps, 2002 Backus Vineyard, Oakville- $175 (800 cases)
Piña Cellars, 2001 Howell Mountain- $54 (530 cases)
Provenance, 2002 Rutherford - $35 (16,636 cases)
Quixote, 2001 Stags' Leap Ranch, Napa Valley- $60 (480 cases/screwcap)
Shafer, 2002 Napa Valley - $54 (7,000 cases)
Signorello, 2002 Padrone, Napa Valley- $95 (270 cases) - BL
White Cottage Ranch, 2002 Howell Mountain- $60 (476 cases)
Red Blends & Meritage
Red Blend of the Year
Joseph Phelps, 2002 Insignia, Napa Valley - $150: Mostly cabernet sauvignon with small doses of merlot (14%), petite verdot (7%) and malbec (1%) from estate-owned vineyards in Stags Leap District and Rutherford, this vintage rivals the legendary 1997 in its hard-to-achieve combination of power, deft balance and elegance. Forward, intense nose of almost jam-like blackberry-black cherry fruit, allspice, mocha, tobacco leaf and cedar. Full-bodied, velvety smooth and graceful with medium-full, supple tannins and balancing acidity, highlighted by layers of succulent fruit, fruitcake-like spice and sweet oak with a flourish of blackberry in the finish. (15,000 cases)
Top Ten Red Blends of the Year
Chateau St. Jean, 2002 Cinq Cépages, Sonoma County - $75: A virtual remake of the fabulous 2001 with its enticing nose of black cherry-cassis, mocha, dried lavender and subtle glove leather. Dense and highly extracted with medium-full tannins and complex flavors of liqueur-rich blackberry-black plum fruit, bittersweet chocolate and an exotic floral component. An harmonious, silky-smooth and seamless Bordeaux-style blend of cabernet sauvignon (75%), merlot (11%), cabernet franc (8%), malbec (4%) and petit verdot (2%). (15,800 cases)
Chimney Rock, 2002 Elevage, Stags Leap District - $76: Smoky aromas of plum, cola nut, red licorice and wet stone. Very sweet, forward flavors of blueberry jam, cherry, mint, pencil and charred oak. Blackberry and coffee notes in the lengthy finish. (2,500 cases) - BL
Cliff Lede, 2002 Claret, Stags Leap District - $32: Fresh scents of cherry, leather and caramel. Intense, dusty flavors of cherry, licorice and clove. Youthful finish with peppery tannins and plenty of Stags Leap fruit for the long haul. (1,857 Cases) - BL
Clos Pégase, 2001 Hommage, Napa Valley - $75: Exotic, floral aromas of black plum, cherry, iodine, cedar and root beer. Weighty flavors of cherry, bittersweet chocolate, smoke and tobacco. Long, intense, earthy finish packs plenty of fruit. - BL
Corley, 2002 Proprietary Red, Napa Valley - $50: A blend of merlot (50%), cabernet franc (40%) and cabernet sauvignon (10%) from estate vineyards in Yountville, Rutherford and Oak Knoll District, this graceful, elegant wine entices with aromas of ripe cassis, mocha and dried herbs. Plush and juicy with medium tannins, delivering deep flavors of cassis and red berry fruit accented with lovely tones of mocha and spice; long finish. (500 cases)
Geyser Peak, 2001 Reserve Alexandre Meritage, Alexander Valley - $49: Ripe, perfumed scents of blackberry, cherry, vanilla and bittersweet chocolate. Concentrated, supple, velvety flavors of blackberry, cassis, walnut and dark chocolate. Lengthy close shows chocolate and minerals. (2,500 cases) - BL
Hess Collection, 2001 The Lion, Napa Valley - $115: Blended with two percent each malbec and merlot, this superbly balanced wine was sourced from mountain estate vineyards on both sides of Napa Valley. Deep aromas of raspberry and cassis are framed by toasty oak enhanced by notes of dried sage, anise, a loamy earthiness and cigar box. Concentrated and full-bodied with flavors of wild red berry-cassis fruit and brown spice that meld with ripe, firm tannins for a lingering presence. (192 cases)
Origin Napa, 2002 Heritage Sites, Napa Valley - $35: Forward aromas of plum, mint and vanilla. This dynamic, merlot-based wine offers layers of plum, black cherry and mineral flavors. Chocolate and clove add complexity to the fruit-driven finish. A well-made wine, attractive in its youth. (892 cases) Publisher's Pick - BL
Ramey, 2002 Diamond Mountain District - $65: Attractive, intense aromas of cinnamon toast, black cherry-cassis tinged with blueberry, tobacco leaf and mocha. This blend of cabernet (65%), petit verdot (15%), cabernet franc (11%) and merlot (9%) is powerful yet approachable, densely textured with firm, ripe tannins and extracted, kirsch-like flavors that echo the nose. (1,330 cases)
Von Strasser, 2002 Reserve, Diamond Mountain District - $100: Forward, fragrant aromas of cassis, blueberry and raspberry, anise and tobacco leaf. Mouth-filling and luscious with velvety, medium-full tannins, this exquisite blend of equal parts cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot and 20% merlot delivers layers of spicy blueberry-accented black fruit of liqueur-like richness woven with subtle mocha and tobacco notes. (210 cases)
Other Outstanding Reds
M. Cosentino, 2001 CE2V Meritage,Napa Valley - $75 (362 cases) - BL
Robert Craig, 2002 Affinity, Napa Valley- $40 (3,543 cases)
Dalla Valle, 2002 Maya, Napa Valley- $185 (250 cases)
Mount Veeder Winery, 2001 Reserve,Napa Valley - $80 (3,950 cases) - BL
Niebaum-Coppola, 2001 Rubicon,Rutherford - $100 (5,062 cases) - BL
Origin Napa, 2002 Paramount,Napa Valley (2,338 cases) - $65 - BL
Paraduxx, 2002 Napa Valley - $43 (11,943 cases)
Rosenblum, 2002 Holbrook Mitchell Trio,Napa Valley - $32 (887 cases)
St. Clement, 2002 Oroppas, Napa Valley- $50 (3,475 cases) - BL
St. Supéry, 2001 Élu Meritage, Napa Valley- $50 (4,700 cases)
Spring Mountain, 2002 Elivette Reserve,Napa Valley - $90 (1,980 cases)
Merlot
Merlot of the Year
Hartwell, 2002 Stags Leap District - $65: Smooth as velvet and voluptuously rich with balancing acidity, this hillside Merlot offers attractive aromas of red currant-red cherry fruit and rose petal that open up with airing to include notes of cherry wood smoke, flinty minerality and a touch of vanilla. Delectable flavors deliver what the nose promises, and are harmonious and luscious, emanating from a deep core of red fruit. Bright acidity lends freshness and vivacity, while the Stags Leap District "iron fist in a velvet glove" tannins provide structure. (810 cases)
Top Ten Merlots of the Year
Atalon, 2001 Keyes Vineyard, Howell Mountain - $65: Red cherry-raspberry fruit, a touch of red meat, subtle mint and cedar define the nose. Elegant and poised with medium tannins, a silky-smooth texture and luscious, ripe black fruit flavors that extend into the graceful finish. (250 cases)
Beringer, 2001 Bancroft Ranch, Howell Mountain - $75: Vibrant, intense aromas of roasted meat and smoke, blackberry and black plum, brown spice and subtle orange zest. Powerful and muscular with ripe, chewy tannins and a juicy core of exceedingly rich blackberry-black cherry fruit enhanced by notes of cocoa and mint. Cellar at least five years or decant for near-term enjoyment. (3,000 cases)
Bravante, 2002, Howell Mountain - $30: Intense nose of blackberry, dark plum and black cherry laced with intriguing scents of freshly chopped tarragon, mushrooms and anise seed. Smooth and juicy with evident yet round mountain tannins, the flavors replicate the nose, enhanced by brown spice and toasty oak. The BuyLine panel gave this wine 90 points; I like it even more. (250 cases)
Duckhorn, 2001, Howell Mountain - $70: Wildly fragrant aromas of freshly crushed blackberry, cocoa, dried sage and a hint of mint. Complex and richly textured with medium-full, integrated tannins, this powerful yet harmonious Merlot offers a deep core of blackberry-cassis fruit tinged with bright raspberry enhanced by nutmeg, bittersweet chocolate and creamy oak. A touch of dried sage emerges in the finish. (2,048 cases)
Duckhorn, 2002 Estate Grown, Napa Valley - $85: A silky-smooth, complex, generous Merlot with fragrant scents of freshly crushed wild raspberry and strawberry, brown spice, cedar and a wisp of orange zest. A medley of ripe berry-cassis fruit, fennel, dried sage and toasty oak define the palate with caramel and vanilla bean marking the long close. (2,235 cases)
Ehlers Estate, 2002, Napa Valley - $27: Forward, appealing aromas of blackberry, black cherry and plum accented by notes of mocha, cedar and a hint of leather. Rich and classy, exhibiting excellent balance with ripe, supple tannins, this seductive Merlot brims with flavors of black cherry-cassis fruit, espresso bean and vanilla, leading into a long, harmonious finish. (2,050 cases)
Nickel & Nickel, 2002 Soscol Ranch, Napa Valley - $50: Focused aromas of wild berry, dark cherry and plum laced with dried sage, anise and spice. Smooth, round and creamy in the mouth with ripe, supple tannins and rich, concentrated flavors that echo the nose, enhanced with subtle cassis and finishing with a note of cedar. (772 cases)
Joseph Phelps, 2002 Napa Valley - $40: A big Merlot with generous tobacco leaf and coffee bean aromas. Brimming with intensely flavorful black cherry fruit accented by creamy oak and mushroom. Chewy tannins add interest to this muscular Merlot, as does its lingering aftertaste. (5,000 cases)
Provenance, 2002 Paras Vineyard, Mount Veeder - $40: Slow-to-open nose of concentrated blackberry jam and wild berry aromas laced with cassis, dark chocolate and cedar. Firm, ripe tannins are smooth and well integrated, and the balancing acidity frames a palate that's loaded with ripe currant and dark cherry fruit. Requires decanting for near-term enjoyment, but best cellared for at least five years. (879 cases)
Shafer, 2003 Napa Valley - $44: Enticing aromas of succulent wild blackberry and black cherry, loamy earth, vanilla, a hint of leather and violet grace notes from the 10% cabernet franc in the blend; similar qualities are replicated on the palate. Deep, fruit-forward flavors and medium-full tannins argue for the age-ability of this well-stuffed wine. (10,000 cases)
Other Outstanding Merlots
Canyon Road, 2003 California - $9 (48,030 cases) - BL
Chalk Hill, 2001 Sonoma County - $43 (4,700 cases) Chateau St. Jean, 2001 Reserve Sonoma County- $90 (979 cases)
Duckhorn, 2002 Napa Valley - $48 (24,000 cases)
Duckhorn, 2002 Three Palms Vineyard, Napa Valley- $80 (2,143 cases)
Etude, 2002 Napa Valley - $48 (1,200 cases)
Silverado Vineyards, 2002 Napa Valley- $28 (17,000 cases)
Truchard, 2002 Carneros - $28 (2,338)
Whitehall Lane, 2002, Napa Valley- $26 (10,480 cases)
Pinot noir
Pinot Noir of the Year
Goldeneye, 2002, Anderson Valley - $52: Rich, attractive aromas of black raspberry, black cherry and plum mingle with subtle green herbs, smoked bacon and toasted anise seed. Plush and juicy with supple, medium tannins and copious black fruit streaked with strawberry and red cherry. Well-crafted, seamless, harmoniously balanced and bold. Tasted three times with each experience more rewarding than the last. Spectacular. (2,790 cases)
Top Ten Pinot Noirs of the Year
Babcock, 2002 Grand Cuvée, Santa Rita Hills - $35: Fragrant, complex scents of freshly crushed black raspberry, red cherry and hints of rhubarb and white pepper. Silky and elegant with supple tannins, tasting of fully extracted deep berry-like fruit, minerals and a reprise of the white pepper spice. (678 cases)
Merry Edwards, 2002 Meredith Estate, Sonoma Coast - $48: Forward, exciting aromas of freshly crushed wild strawberry, mushroom earthiness and subtle dried herbs. Lots of extract in this bold, quintessential Sonoma Coast Pinot, which exhibits ripe strawberry-cassis fruit and a velvety texture. A luscious, complex package that will benefit from a couple of years of cellaring. (650 cases)
Etude, 2002 Heirloom, Carneros - $80: A rare wine from venerable, shy-bearing clones. Lovely cherry-black raspberry aromas accented by notes of chocolate, wild mint and subtle vanilla. Plush, juicy and concentrated with fine, silky tannins and crisp acidity, this seamless, opulent, generous Pinot offers copious cherry-blackberry fruit of near kirsch-like richness that lingers in the extended, mineral-tinged finish. (700 cases)
Lazy Creek, 2003 Reserve, Anderson Valley - $70: Initially subdued nose opens with airing to black raspberry, lots of warm brown spice and dried lavender. Silky, luscious and brimming with nicely extracted, liqueur-like black fruit. A powerful expression of Pinot, yet still well behaved. (100 cases)
Londer, 2003 Paraboll, Anderson Valley - $48: Enticing, fragrant scents of Asian spice, red cherry-red currant fruit and a touch of vanilla. Velvety smooth with supple, medium-full tannins, offering copious, rich red fruit accented by sour cherry. A deeply flavored Pinot, every bit a reserve wine, as its Boontling moniker proclaims. (262 cases)
Longoria, 2003 Fe Ciega Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills - $42: Initial scents of white pepper and dried herbs are soon joined by freshly crushed strawberry and red plum compote tinged with subtle smoke and nutmeg. Silky smooth with firm Santa Rita Hills acidity and supple tannins offering a tasty interplay of succulent strawberry fruit, white pepper and minerality. (340 cases)
Patz & Hall, 2003 Burnside Vineyard, Sonoma Coast - $60: Produced entirely from Dijon clone 115. Offers forward, lifted aromas of red berries and vanilla enhanced by allspice and a touch of coconut. Very smooth, round and luscious with medium tannins, crisp acidity and copious red fruit flavors. (238 cases)
Sea Smoke, 2003 Botella, Santa Rita Hills - $30: This classic, cool-climate Pinot offers exquisite aromas of sweet red cherry, wild berries, cola, dried lavender and minerals, accented by notes of nutmeg and cinnamon. Plush, lively, yet sophisticated with deep, concentrated flavors focusing on wild blackberry and freshly crushed strawberry with mineral undertones; medium-full body with medium-full, ripe tannins. (1,000 cases)
Sea Smoke, 2003 Southing, Santa Rita Hills - $50: Enticing aromas of black cherry, cranberry compote, fresh sage and violets are replicated on the palate where raspberry and blueberry enter the medley, accented by clove and vanilla. An elegantly styled, ample-bodied, silky-smooth Pinot with medium-full tannins and crisp acidity adding balance and structure. (1,500 cases)
Talley, 2003 Rosemary's Vineyard, Arroyo Grande Valley - $65: Elegant, rich aromas of red cherry and wild berries of almost jam-like intensity, accented by brown spices and loamy earthiness. Round, seamless and silky with medium-full tannins, this full-bodied Pinot offers extracted, concentrated flavors that replicate the nose and invite sip after sip; long, spice-tinged finish. (428 cases)
Other Outstanding Pinots
Brewer-Clifton, 2004 Cargasacchi Vineyard,Santa Rita Hills - $64 (250 cases)
Calera, 2002 Ryan Vineyard, Mt. Harlan- $40 (115 cases) - BL
Canihan Family, 2003 Irrational Exuberance,Carneros - $30 (25 cases)
Copain, 2003 Kiser Vineyard, Anderson Valley- $40 (50 cases)
Merry Edwards, 2003 Olivet Lane,Russian River Valley - $54 (680 cases)
Etude, 2003 Carneros - $40 (8,200 cases)
Gary Farrell, 2002 Rochioli Vineyard,Russian River Valley - $50 (391 cases)
Foley, 2003 Barrel Select, Rancho Santa Rosa,Santa Rita Hills - $50 (244 cases)
Greenwood Ridge, 2003 Estate, Mendocino Ridge- $25 (1,000 cases)
Handley, 2003 Anderson Valley - $25 (3,037 cases)
Hartford Court, 2002 Arrendell Vineyard,Russian River Valley - $65 (327 cases)
Longoria, 2003 Bien Nacido Vineyard,Santa Maria Valley - $42 (105 cases)
Lynmar, 2002 Quail Cuvée, Quail Hill Vineyard,Russian River Valley - $40 (355 cases)
MacPhail, 2003 Toulouse Vineyard,Anderson Valley - $35 (340 cases)
Melville, 2003 Small Lot Collection Carrie's,Santa Rita Hills - $46 (245 cases)
Migration, 2003 Anderson Valley - $28 (2,800 cases)
Morgan, 2003 Garys' Vineyard,Santa Lucia Highlands - $45 (225 cases)
Morgan, 2003 Double L Vineyard,Santa Lucia Highlands - $50 (400 cases)
Navarro, 2003 Deep End Blend, Anderson Valley- $42 (1,341 cases)
Patz & Hall, 2003 Pisoni Vineyard,Santa Lucia Highlands - $75 (508 cases)
Sanford, 2002 Santa Rita Hills - $27 (10,000 cases)
Sea Smoke, 2003 Ten, Santa Rita Hills- $70 (500 cases) >
Talley, 2003 Rincon Vineyard,Arroyo Grande Valley - $52 (530 cases)
Tantara, 2003 Rio Vista Vineyard,Santa Rita Hills - $45 (100 cases)
TAZ, 2003 Fiddlestix Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills- $35 (1,900 cases)
Williams Selyem, 2002 Allen Vineyard,Russian River Valley - $72 (445 cases)
Woodenhead, 2003 Wiley Vineyard,Anderson Valley - $42 (310 cases)
Syrah, Petites & blends
Syrah of the Year
Shafer, 2002 Relentless, Napa Valley - $62: True to form, this magnificent release remains the benchmark for Syrah excellence in California, although it could be viewed as a Rhône blend with 20% of its character coming from syrah's offspring, petite sirah. Bolder than its predecessors, the 2002 offers intense, heady aromas of freshly crushed blackberry, blueberry, plum compote, crushed black peppercorns and vanillin oak. An awesome wine brimming with wild berry-blueberry fruit, varietal meatiness and peppery spice backed by big, ripe tannins and great concentration; finishes with a flourish of coconut and minerals. (2,500 cases)
Top Ten Syrahs, Petites & Blends of the Year
Babcock, 2002 Black Label Cuvée, Central Coast - $30: Forward, very fragrant aromas of mocha cream, blackberry-boysenberry fruit and cracked black peppercorns. Elegant and focused with a deep core of ripe berry fruit enhanced by peppery spice and shadings of violets and creamy oak along with fine tannins that feather across the palate. (1,320 cases)
Beckmen, 2003 Clone #1, Purisima Mountain Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley - $40: Resembling a fine Northern Rhône with its fragrant, leather-tinged aromas of sun-ripened blackberry and hillside stony minerality, which translate to the broad palate where copious blackberry fruit is enhanced by a bright, red-fruit grace note and hints of smoked meat. An exciting wine to drink with excellent depth of flavor and ripe, medium-full tannins. (400 cases)
Constant, 2002 Constancii, Diamond Mountain Vineyard, Sonoma County - $45: Premier release of this mountain-grown estate Syrah. Intense, Rhône-like aromas of smoky, roasted meat, cracked black pepper and bramble patch red and black berries are replicated on the fleshy palate, framed in medium-full, velvety tannins and showing fine depth and concentration. (221 cases)
Foley, 2003 Rancho Santa Rosa, Santa Rita Hills - $30: Showing that this AVA is as perfect for syrah as it is for pinot, the wine offers intense aromas of boysenberry, cassis, sandalwood spice and hints of espresso and vanilla. Deeply fruited with a luscious core of boysenberry-blackberry fruit tinged with dried lavender; rich and mellow with medium tannins, displaying more elegance than weightiness. (1,643 cases)
Havens, 2001 Hudson Vineyard, Carneros-Napa Valley - $45: Sourced exclusively from Block T, an elevated, chilly, southwest-facing site composed of rocky, volcanic soil, it offers fragrant scents of glove leather, raspberry-black cherry fruit, white pepper, lavender and a touch of vanilla, influenced subtly by 3% viognier crushed and co-fermented with the syrah. Full bodied and weighty with copious ripe berry fruit accented with notes of red meat, white pepper and leather; a long finish. (475 cases)
Kuleto Estate, 2002, Napa Valley - $40: Heady aromas of cinnamon toast, charred meat, mineral, blackberry and huckleberry with a leathery nuance. Round and smooth with medium-full, chewy tannins, this complex, weighty, mountain Syrah delivers bold, rich flavors of extracted blueberry-cassis fruit, dried sage and lots of brown spice, with spice persisting in the extended finish. (604 cases)
Fess Parker, 2001 Rodney's Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley - $40: Rich and full bodied with layers of blackberry, blueberry and boysenberry on both the nose and palate, enhanced by nuances of smoke, vanilla and warm cinnamon spice. Ripe, medium tannins make the wine approachable now, but it will benefit from a few years of bottle age, too. (724 cases)
Joseph Phelps, 2002, Napa Valley - $45: Co-fermented with 4% viognier, this stylish, polished Syrah offers pretty scents of blackberry-black cherry-boysenberry fruit dusted with white pepper and a hint of orchid. Rich in ripe fruit extract with deep flavors of wild dark berries; round and seamless with medium tannins and a long, silky finish. (900 cases)
Summerwood, 2002 Diosa, Paso Robles - $50: Blended with three percent each of grenache and roussanne, Diosa's ("goddess") origins in the cool Templeton Gap of western Paso Robles is reflected in its forward aromas of red currant-strawberry fruit, sandalwood and white pepper. Ultraplush and silky smooth with medium tannins and copious, bright, high-toned red currant-red cherry-strawberry fruit accented with white pepper. (284 cases)
TAZ, 2003 Goat Rock, Santa Maria Valley - $28: Made from four clones of young vine syrah grown in a steep canyon hillside vineyard, this cool-climate Syrah is the best ever from TAZ. Come-hither scents of bright raspberry-black cherry fruit enhanced by black pepper spice, vanilla and a dusting of dried herbs. Smooth, medium bodied and almost elegant with a deep core of luscious, liqueur-rich berry fruit and undertones of black pepper and French oak, plus medium-full tannins. Simply delicious. (300 cases)
Other Outstanding Syrahs, Petites & Blends
Beckmen, 2003 Block Six, Purisima Mountain Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley - $45 (250 cases)
Chateau Potelle, 2002 V.G.S., Mt. Veeder- $75 (166 cases)
Havens, 2001 Napa Valley - $40 (2,212 cases)
JC Cellars, 2003 Petite Sirah, Frediani Vineyard,Napa Valley - $40 (175 cases)
Kenneth-Crawford, 2004 Lafond Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills - $32 (180 cases)
Lewis, 2002 Napa Valley - $60 (250 cases)
Longoria, 2002 Santa Barbara County - $23 (415 cases)
Melville, 2003 Small Lot Collection Donna's, Santa Rita Hills - $36 (365 cases)
Joseph Phelps, 2003 Le Mistral, Monterey County- $30 (4,000 cases)
Quixote, 2002 Petite Syrah, Stags' Leap Ranch,Napa Valley - $60 (540 cases/screwcap)
Rosenblum, 2003 England-Shaw Vineyards,Solano County - $33 (1,450 cases)
Rosenblum, 2003 Petite Sirah, Pickett Road,Napa Valley - $28 (1,600 cases)
Truchard, 2002 Carneros - $28 (4,056 cases)
Voss, 2001 Ocala, Napa Valley - $45 (325 cases)
Zaca Mesa, 2002 Z Cuvée, Santa Ynez Valley- $15 (2,938 cases)
Zinfandel
Zinfandel of the Year
Rosenblum, 2003 Rockpile Road Vineyard, Rockpile-Dry Creek Valley - $30: Attractive, intense aromas of very ripe blackberry and black currant fruit, black pepper, lightly toasted oak and vanilla. Ultrasmooth, luscious and juicy with chewy tannins and layers of blackberry-black raspberry fruit, black pepper, dark chocolate and creamy oak. An exuberant wine that finishes with a flourish of kirsch-like wild berries. (4,973 cases)
Top Ten Zinfandels of the Year
Howell Mountain Vineyards, 2002 Beatty Ranch, Howell Mountain - $38: Appealingly spicy nose of black raspberry-black cherry fruit accented with a subtle meaty note. Concentrated, round and plush with copious berry fruit complemented by freshly crushed black peppercorns and a touch of dark chocolate; medium-full, supple tannins. (467 cases)
Kuleto Estate, 2003, Napa Valley - $30: Forward, very fragrant scents of black raspberry and huckleberry, dried sage and freshly cracked black peppercorns. Full bodied with medium-full tannins, this mountain-grown Zin possesses a deep core of kirsch-rich blackberry fruit and layers of black pepper and brown spice. Bold flavors are deep and extracted, and linger in the extended finish. (604 cases)
Peachy Canyon, 2003 Old School House, Paso Robles - $30: Big, ripe aromas of blueberry, oak char and bittersweet chocolate. Ample flavors of chocolate-covered blackberry, tar, pencil and espresso show excellent balance. Spicy, smoky close. (380 cases) Tasters' Choice Selection - BL
Quivera, 2002 Anderson Ranch, Dry Creek Valley - $30: Heady and forthcoming aromas of cherry-chocolate and ripe plum. Stylish and well stuffed with peppery raspberry and cherry flavors wrapped in a youthful, tannic cloak. Excellent length with great depth of fruit. Tasters' Choice Selection - BL
Rancho Zabaco, 2003 Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma County - $35: Very fragrant aromas of raspberry preserves, cherry and cinnamon display laser-like clarity. Substantial flavors of cherry, bramble and cedar. Tart red fruit finish. (800 cases) Tasters' Choice Selection - BL
Rosenblum, 2003 Richard Sauret Vineyard, Paso Robles - $19: Forward, intense nose of wild black raspberry, cassis, allspice and vanilla is replicated on the palate of this deeply fruited, jammy and layered Zin, which also shows some black pepper spice from the 10% petite sirah in the blend and a bit of toasty oak; medium-full tannins. (7,029 cases)
St. Francis, 2002 Reserve, Pagani Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $45: Forward, deep, fragrant aromas of ultraripe blackberry, dark chocolate and black pepper. Full-bodied, rich and luscious with medium-full tannins, this bold Zin delivers a mélange of juicy blackberry fruit, mocha and peppery spice; finishes with a flourish of raspberry liqueur. (500 cases)
St. Francis, 2002 Old Vines, Sonoma County - $22: Highly aromatic nose of intense blackberry fruit, black pepper spice, subtle leather, tobacco leaf and cedar. Concentrated, deep flavors echo the nose, and are enhanced by some smoky oak; medium-full ripe tannins. (25,000 cases)
Summit Lake, 2001, Howell Mountain - $22: Initially shy aromas of red berry fruit dusted with cinnamon and anise, along with some black pepper, open with airing. Richly textured with medium tannins; nicely concentrated flavors echo the nose and taper to a wonderfully spicy close. (1,200 cases)
Trentadue, 2002 La Storia, Alexander Valley - $28: Uplifting plum, cherry and alcohol aromas with a whiff of pencil and cedar. Layers of plum and blueberry flavors with a complementing mineral nuance that adds depth and structure, and drives the fruit-laden finish. Tasters' Choice Selection - BL
Other Outstanding Zinfandels
C.G. Di Arie, 2003 Southern Exposure,Shenandoah Valley - $30 (900 cases)
Dasche Cellars, 2002 Old Vines Louvau Vineyard,Dry Creek Valley - $28 (313 cases)
Ehlers Estate, 2003 Korte Ranch, Napa Valley- $30 (364 cases)
Lamborn Family, 2002 Platinum Anniversary,Howell Mountain - $36 (606 cases)
Peachy Canyon, 2003 Especial, Paso Robles- $30 (496 cases) - BL
Quivira, 2003 Dry Creek Valley- $20 (6,274 cases) - BL
Quivira, 2002 Wine Creek Ranch,Dry Creek Valley - $30 (372 cases) - BL
Rancho Zabaco, 2003 Toreador,Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley -$50 (174 cases) - BL
Rancho Zabaco, 2003 Chiotti Vineyard,Dry Creek Valley - $50 (88 cases) - BL
Rosenblum, 2003 Carla's Vineyards,San Francisco Bay - $28 (3,627 cases)
Rosenblum, 2003 Hendry Vineyard Reserve,Napa Valley - $40 (345 cases)
Rosenblum, 2003 Monte Rosso Vineyard,Sonoma Valley - $40 (843 cases) - BL
Carol Shelton, 2003 Wild Thing Old Vines,Cox Vineyard, Mendocino - $28 (800 cases)
Carol Shelton, 2003 Rocky Reserve,Florence Vineyard, Rockpile - $33 (375 cases)
Chardonnay
Chardonnay of the Year
Patz & Hall, 2003 Hyde Vineyard, Carneros - $50: Forward, intense, attractive aromas of creamy citrus, baked apple, Bartlett pear, honeysuckle, toasted hazelnut and vanilla, etched with minerality. Rich and complex with remarkable purity of fruit and delectable flavors of pear, apple, tangerine and lemon curd kept lively by crisp acidity. (1,143 cases)
Top Ten Chardonnays of the Year
Beringer, 2003 Sbragia-Limited Release, Napa Valley - $40: Attractive aromas of oak, honey, nutmeg and mocha. Silky-smooth texture with ripe mango, banana and apricot flavors. Soft, unctuous finish with a lingering oakiness. (2,500 cases) - BL
EOS Estate, 2003 Cupa Grandis, Brothers Ranch Vineyard, Paso Robles - $40: A full bouquet of apple juice, honey, brown sugar and cantaloupe. Round and supple with layers of tropical fruit flavors laced with brown spices. Honey- and oak-kissed close. (270 cases) Tasters' Choice Selection - BL
Longoria, 2003 Santa Rita Hills - $23: Ripe citrus and minerals define the nose that, with airing, takes on a note of vanilla custard. Viscous and creamy in the mouth with bright, lively acidity and flavors of citrus, peach, pineapple and a wet pebble minerality; long, crisp finish. (353 cases)
Melville, 2004 Estate, Santa Rita Hills - $26: A lively, mineral-infused, cool-climate Chard that offers tantalizing aromas of Meyer lemon, tropical fruit and subtle oak. Elegant and trim, yet loaded with fruit; mango and pineapple burst forth on the palate backed by citrus and ever-present minerality. Exciting to sip and excellent with food. (2,400 cases)
Mer Soleil, 2003 Barrel Fermented, Central Coast - $42: Initially subdued aromas of ripe apple and succulent pear open with air to display richer scents of mango, pineapple, lemon custard and butterscotch. Hedonistically rich with explosive flavors emanating from a deep core of perfectly ripe fruit with abundant, palate-coating tropical fruit and zesty citrus; finishes with a surge of lemony crème brûlée. (13,300 cases)
Nickel & Nickel, 2003 Truchard Vineyard, Carneros - $38: Floral aromas of lemon, chalk, butter and a confectioner's sugar note. Abundant flavors of banana, grapefruit, honey and guava butter. Long, spicy finish. (1,302 cases) - BL
Patz & Hall, 2003 Durell Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $48: This Sonoma-Carneros rendering offers assertive aromas of fresh lemon-lime citrus, pear, nectarine, tropical fruit and toasty oak. Full bodied, rich, creamy and elegant with flavors of citrus, mango and apricot tinged with toast; lovely texture. (650 cases)
Shafer, 2003 Red Shoulder Ranch, Carneros - $40: Abundant French oak on the nose yields, as the wine warms, to rich Meyer lemon, apricot and tropical fruit. Full bodied, rich, yet finely balanced, although a bit leaner than previous efforts, this powerful, non-malolactic Chard tastes of roasted grain, citrus, pineapple and apricot with notes of mineral and oak spice extending into the long finish. (7,000 cases)
Talley, 2003 Rosemary's Vineyard, Arroyo Grande Valley - $44: Fragrant, appealing lemon aromas accented by green apple, toasted hazelnut, freshly grated nutmeg and minerals. Creamy and full bodied with vibrant acidity, this beautifully balanced, cool-climate Chard shows impeccable breed with deep flavors that echo the nose and a long, mineral-infused finish. (361 cases)
Truchard, 2003 Carneros, Napa Valley - $28: Floral nose of tropical fruit, lemon zest, tangerine, apple and succulent pear enhanced by notes of honeysuckle and hazelnut. Rich and luscious with bright acidity that keeps the flavors fresh, this sleek, focused Chard offers layer after layer of flavor promised by the nose, encouraging sip after sip and never tiring the palate. (1,059 cases)
Other Outstanding Chardonnays
Beringer, 2003 Private Reserve, Napa Valley- $35 (10,000 cases) - BL
Chateau St. Jean, 2002 Durell Vineyard,Sonoma Valley - $25 (762 cases)
Foley, 2003 Rancho Santa Rosa,Santa Rita Hills - $30 (3,548 cases)
Marimar Estate, 2002 Dobles Lías,Don Miguel Vineyard, Russian River Valley- $40 (295 cases) - BL
Mayacamas, 2002, Napa Valley - $25 (2,200 cases)
Morgan, 2003 Double L Vineyard,Santa Lucia Highlands - $35 (100 cases)
Navarro, 2003 Premiere Reserve, Anderson Valley- $20 (3,552 cases)
Nickel & Nickel, 2003 John's Creek Vineyard,Napa Valley - $50 (358 cases)
Patz & Hall, 2003 Alder Springs Vineyard,Mendocino County - $55 (1,200 cases)
St. Clement, 2003 Carneros - $16 (4,147 cases) - BL
Talbott, 2001 Cuvée Cynthia, Monterey County- $55 (600 cases)
Sterling, 2002 Reserve, Napa Valley- $40 (1,473 cases)
Talley, 2003 Rincon Vineyard,Arroyo Grande Valley - $36 (460 cases)
Sauvignon blanc
Sauvignon Blanc of the Year
Clos Pegase, 2004 Mitsuko's Vineyard, Carneros-Napa Valley - $18: Clean, fresh, appealing scents of passion fruit, lemon zest, gooseberry, melon, white grapefruit and quince. Round and expansive palate with tiers of succulent pear, quince and citrus enhanced by a perfectly stated herbaceousness. Vibrant acidity balances the textured, yet light and ethereal body. A sublime melding of California and New Zealand styles. (1,413 cases/screwcap)
Top Ten Sauvignon Blancs of the Year
Blackstone, 2004, Monterey County - $10: Bright and fresh (evocative of Marlborough Sauvignon) with plenty of gooseberry and grapefruit character in the nose and palate, enhanced with a touch of tropical fruit and racy acidity. (25,000 cases)
Cliff Lede, 2004, Napa Valley - $18: Vibrant aromas of white peach, tropical fruit, straw and lemon grass, enhanced by delicate citrus notes of grapefruit and lemon zest. Rich and round, yet crisp with lively acidity, this elegant Sauvignon serves up flavors of grapefruit, tropical fruit and pear accented by varietal grassiness. (2,211 cases)
Geyser Peak, 2004 Block Collection River Road Ranch, Russian River Valley - $21: Enticing scents of honeydew melon, quince, white grapefruit and chopped fresh tarragon expand with air. Tangy and ripe with bright, lively acidity, this beautifully balanced, silky-smooth Sauvignon delivers the flavors promised by the nose, leading with grapefruit and finishing with subtle grassiness. (860 cases)
Girard, 2004, Napa Valley - $15: An elegant Sauvignon, more fruit expressive than herbaceous. Honeydew melon, Meyer lemon, quince and tropical fruit define the nose and are replicated on the round and fleshy, fruit-loaded palate along with some lime zest and dried apricot notes as well. A trace of minerality enhances the long finish. (5,700 cases)
Mason, 2004, Napa Valley - $16: Fragrant, appealing nose of garden herbs, straw, white melon, grapefruit and a wet pebble minerality. Round and juicy with crisp acidity, delivering the flavors promised by the nose, along with a trace of pineapple; finishes with a sigh of grassiness. (14,570 cases)
St. Supéry, 2004 Dollarhide, Napa Valley - $35: Beautifully crafted in the Loire Valley style, offering come-hither, moderately grassy aromas of grapefruit, lemon grass, lime zest and a hint of green olive. Medium bodied with mouth-watering acidity; focused flavors echo the nose and are laced with a minerality that shimmers across the finish. 440 cases)
Sauvignon Republic Cellars, 2004 Russian River Valley - $18: Nose of grapefruit, juicy pineapple and subtle herbs. Fresh and clean with snappy acidity, offering lemony flavors accented by tropical fruit and pleasant green herbaceous notes that linger in the minerally, extended finish. (2,500 cases/screwcap)
Voss, 2004, Rutherford - $19: Forward, intense, uncompromisingly varietal nose of honeydew melon, white grapefruit, passion fruit and freshly chopped green herbs. Round yet firm in the mouth with tangy acidity and flavors that match the nose, enhanced by a subtle dusting of white pepper. Finishes crisp and clean with a mineral-tinged citrus flourish. (4,053 cases/screwcap)
Wildhurst, 2004 Reserve, Lake County - $11: Fresh, clean, attractive aromas of grapefruit, tangerine, lime zest and fresh-cut grass. Round and juicy in the mouth, delivering perky flavors of gooseberry, citrus, pear and quince with an edgy finish. (22,000 cases/screwcap)
White Oak, 2004, Russian River Valley - $15: Assertive, fragrant nose of creamy citrus, fresh-mown grass and grapefruit. Smooth, silky and moderately rich with delectable flavors of white melon, grapefruit and gooseberry, adding up to an elegant, wonderfully varietal Sauvignon Blanc. (2,950 cases)
Other Outstanding Sauvignons
Araujo, 2004 Eisele Vineyard, Napa Valley- $38 (580 cases)
Beckmen, 2004 Santa Ynez Valley - $12 (700 cases)
Bernardus, 2003 Monterey County- $15 (7,699 cases)
Canyon Road, 2004 California - $8 (29,181 cases)
Chalk Hill, 2003 Estate, Chalk Hill - $25 (4,300 cases)
Chateau Souverain, 2004 Alexander Valley- $14 (9,468 cases)
Ferrari-Carano, 2004 Fumé Blanc,Sonoma County - $15 (30,000 cases)
Fortress, 2004 Musqué Clone, Red Hills,Lake County - $20 (1,400 cases)
Gainey, 2003 Limited Selection,Santa Ynez Valley - $20 (2,350 cases) - BL
Geyser Peak, 2004 California - $12 (112,000 cases)
Greenwood Ridge, 2004 Anderson Valley- $16 (1,000 cases)
Hall, 2004 Napa Valley - $20 (1,134 cases)
Kenwood, 2004 Sonoma County - $13 (78,000 cases)
Patianna, 2004 Mendocino County- $16 (3,400 cases)
St. Supéry, 2004 Napa Valley - $18 (45,000 cases)
Selene, 2004 Hyde Vineyard, Carneros - $26 (1,200 cases)
Wattle Creek, 2004 Mendocino - $15 (3,600 cases)
Whitehall Lane, 2004 Napa Valley - $15 (7,840 cases/screwcap)
Based in San Francisco, Contributing Editor Steve Pitcher has authored this comprehensive, year-end report since 1997. He can be reached via e-mail at wine2words@aol.com.
