Brasserie Beck’s executive chef David Ashwell, who poaches mussels in Champagne broth accented with garlic and parsley, says, "There are no hard-and-fast rules, but Blanc de Blancs Champagne, made up of 100 percent chardonnay like Henriot Brut Souverain, has a lot more structure to hold up to the mussel broth."
	Bivalves & Bubblies - Delectable matches for festive entertaining By Carole Kotkin
		While no one can argue the time-honored appeal of a luscious union like oysters on the half shell and Champagne, the entire family of bivalves offers broader, potentially more complex pairing possibilities. Furthermore, when entertaining friends and family during the holidays, enlisting oysters in other incarnations, as well as clams, scallops and mussels as passed hors d'oeuvres, plated amuse-bouches or even more substantial courses, yields something more meritorious - not to mention delicious - on the sustenance scale. If Champagne is too rich for a crowd, pair these aquatic morsels with global bubblies such as domestic sparklers, Spanish Cava or Italian Prosecco at a fraction of the cost. Wines with bubbles go with more kinds of seafood than do most still wines, and effortlessly wash down a range of mollusks, according to executive chef David Ashwell of Brasserie Beck, a new, casual French/Belgian brasserie in Washington, D.C. (owned by renowned chef Bob Wiedmaier). "The innate saltiness of mollusks is the key," Ashwell says. "Just as a squeeze of lemon or other citrus juice is a natural accent to the seafood, a high-acid sparkler can provide the right contrast." Brasserie Beck's wine steward Jaime Lang adds, "The acidity keeps the palate refreshed and ready for the next bite of food in each sip. So every bite is like the first bite." "Sparklers from Around the World" is a category on the wine list at The River Oyster Bar in Miami, where chef-owner David Bracha steams mussels in coconut milk, chilies and lime juice, grills scallops with kim chee sauce and poaches seafood ceviche in chilies and red onions. "Sparkling wines bring out the best in seafood," he observes. "Cava is usually on the lighter side with a fruitiness that makes it a good foil for many spicy foods. I like to pair the 2004 Gramona Grand Cuvée from Penedès with one of our signature oyster dishes, Fire-Roasted Fanny Bay Oysters. The hot, grilled oysters blanketed in sofrito butter and ancho chile cream reduction, topped with a slice of chorizo and a bit of pungent, shredded Manchego cheese, harmonize nicely with the Cava because it can stand up to the piquancy of the dish." In fact, he continues, "This is a case where the spiciness of the dish tends to determine what the match is going to be. I would go at least a little sweeter with the wine to counteract the kick of the chorizo and chile." Jonathan Young, general manager and sommelier at the august Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant in Manhattan, takes a similar stance when suggesting bubblies for patrons to enhance the legendary oyster and clam pan roasts that, since 1913, have poured out from the antique, steam-sleeved swivel pots. "The buoyancy, racy acidity and lower alcohol in Prosecco, such as Villa Cornaro, is a good contrast with the cream and tomatoes in the pan roast," he says. Plus, "Italian sparklers from the Veneto region match with everything. You can have a table of ten people, each ordering something slightly different - fried, raw or poached clams, oysters, scallops or mussels - and everyone will be happy. And they won't feel as full as with other wines." Young admits he even likes to add a splash of Prosecco to the finished pan roast. Cooking with the wine you plan to drink is always advisable, if not always affordable. At Waterbar, California restaurant impresario Pat Kuleto's newest San Francisco hot spot at the water's edge on The Embarcadero, a good bubbly is integral to chef Parke Ulrich's Champagne-marinated Geoduck-Fennel Salad with Uni Custard. Waterbar's head sommelier and co-wine buyer, Jennifer Knowles, partners this clam-based dish with Schramsburg Blanc de Blancs, advocating "its beautiful notes of yellow apple and acacia and a finish of lemon curd and green pears that highlight the sea water aromas in the sea urchin and stand up to the richness of the custard." For the clams, or any ingredient that requires marinating, she advises that "a seamless pairing" is guaranteed by using the same wine in the glass as in the recipe. > Likewise, for the kitchen's adeptly prepared Rosé Sparkling Poached Scallops with Celery Root Rémoulade, Knowles suggests, "a highly aromatic rosé bubbly from Domaine Carneros. It has loads of bright strawberry and red apple aromas with a touch of cherry pie on the finish. Use this as the poaching liquid for a beautiful consistency from start to finish." Brasserie Beck's Ashwell, who serves 1,500 pounds of Prince Edward Island mussels per week in a Champagne and cream broth accented with garlic and parsley, also doesn't mess around. Not only does he cook with the real thing, economy notwithstanding, he doesn't stint. "There are no hard-and-fast rules for cooking with Champagne, but a Blanc de Blancs Champagne - 100 percent chardonnay - like Henriot Brut Souverain has a lot more structure to hold up to the mussels," he says, which are poached in the Champagne together with their own liquor. "A splash [of Champagne] is added at the end of cooking for a bit of brightness," he adds. The finished dish can be teamed with the Henriot or something a bit heavier to stand up to the strong flavor of the mussels. Sommelier Lang suggests Veuve Clicquot NV Yellow Label, which has a full style, rich with pinot noir flavors and less acid, as an option for the finished dish. If you are a classicist who believes that nothing can replace - or eclipse - the raw oyster-Champagne combo, follow the advice of James Hayes, head sommelier for Thomas Keller Restaurant Group (including Per Se in Manhattan, French Laundry, Bouchon and Ad Hoc in Napa Valley): "Think about where the bivalves are from and how they are going to be served." He is pairing brinier East Coast oysters with very dry, crisp Champagnes. But because "West Coast oysters tend to be creamier, they are best with slightly richer Champagnes to highlight that characteristic," he notes. Hayes eschews adornments with raw oysters and says Extra Brut is their best companion (see "Brut Force, Champagne goes dry" page 32). "Crisp, mineral-driven sparkling wines will showcase the freshness of the bivalves perfectly," he offers. "Raw bar offerings have clean, fresh, delicate flavors that can be easily overpowered by complex, barrel-fermented vintage or non-vintage Bruts, as well as fruity, rich rosés," concurs Beck's Ashwell. He favors Heidsieck & Co. Monopole Blue Top (all chardonnay) for its "light crisp aspects with hints of citrus" that he finds "perfect for raw oysters." The recipes on the opposite page are both simple and elegant, but if there is no time for mincing and marinating, then ice a platter of oysters on the half shell and toast the promise of the New Year with crystal flutes of Champagne that are half-full rather than half-empty. Food Editor Carole Kotkin manages the Ocean Reef Club Cooking School in Key Largo; is a syndicated columnist for McClatchey Publishing; is co-author of Mmmmiami; and co-hosts Food & Wine Talk, which can be heard on www.south floridagourmet.com. Citrus Champagne Oyster Shooter Adapted from Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant 2 tablespoons each of fresh squeezed lemon, lime, orange and grapefruit juice 1 tablespoon finely minced shallots 1 teaspoon finely minced ginger 4 tablespoons Champagne vinegar Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 1/4 cups Brut Champagne 4 Kumamoto oysters, shucked and removed from shell 1 scallion, finely sliced on bias In a small glass bowl, mix the juices, shallots, ginger, vinegar and 4 tablespoons Champagne. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Let sit for 1 hour. In each of four 4-ounce shooter glasses, put 1/4 -cup of citrus mixture. Place 1 oyster on top. Slowly add 2 tablespoons of bubbly. Top with scallion sliver; pair with the same wine used in the preparation. Serves 4 Champagne Mussels Adapted from Brasserie Beck 4 pounds mussels 3 shallots, diced 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 cups Blanc de Blancs A few sprigs of fresh thyme 3 cups heavy cream 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 bunch parsley, chopped Scrub mussels with a stiff brush. Trim or pull off beards. Combine shallots, garlic, wine and thyme in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add mussels; cover and steam until shells have partially opened, about 5 minutes. Add cream, salt and pepper, and cook until mussels open completely and flesh separates from one side of shell, about 5 more minutes. Discard those that don't open. Use a slotted spoon to remove the mussels to a serving bowl. Strain the cooking liquid over them, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve; pair with a weighty Brut. Serves 4 Champagne-marinated Geoduck-Fennel Salad Adapted from Waterbar Restaurant 1 large geoduck clam or 20 littlenecks 1 ounce sparkling wine 1/2 cup finely diced raw fennel (bulb) 1/2 cup finely diced celery, reserving leaves Sea salt to taste Seaweed rice crackers, packaged Trim away long, trunk-like siphon from the geoduck and peel off tough outer skin. Blanch in salted boiling water for 10 seconds and allow to fully cool. Thinly slice clam into strips and marinate in sparkling wine for 10 minutes. If using littlenecks, steam until opened, about 8 minutes. Remove from shells, cool and marinate in wine for 10 minutes. Add the diced fennel and celery and season with sea salt to taste. Garnish with reserved celery leaves. Serve spooned onto seaweed rice crackers; pair with Blanc de Blancs. Serves 4 Complete original version of this recipe: Champagne Marinated Geoduck Salad with Uni Custard Schramsburg, Blanc de Blanc, 2003 1 large geoduck clam or 20 littleneck clams 1/2 cup finely diced raw fennel (anise) 1/2 cup finely diced celery hearts Sea salt to taste 1 ounce champagne Uni Custard: 6 eggs 2 ounces of fresh Sea urchin 3 cups dashi broth (vegetable broth can be substituted) For the custard- this is a version of chow un mushi, which is a gelatin free Japanese custard. Lightly grease a small bread mold and preheat oven to 350. Mix the eggs and urchin together until blended then add the dashi. Mix well but gently and pour into mold. Cook for 30 minutes in a water bath that covers the mold 1/2 way up. Allow to cool and set. Cut the long trunk-like siphon away from the body, and peel off the tough outer skin. Blanch geoduck in salted boiling water for 10 seconds and allow to fully cool. Thinly slice clam into strips and marinate in Champagne for 10 minutes. If using littlenecks, steam until opened, about 10 minutes. Remove from shells, cool, and marinate in Champagne for 10 minutes. Add the diced fennel and celery hearts and season with salt to taste. Cut the custard into 1 inch thick rectangles and place the clam salad over the top. Finish with sea salt and celery leaves This dish has many layers of complexity, both texturally and flavor. The snap of the clam, the crisp vegetables and the feather soft custard intermingle to create an amazing mouthfeel and the flavors are just as perfect. I pair this with The Shramsburg blanc de blanc, 100% chardonnay from vineyards throughout southern Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino. It is a crisper sparkler but still has beautiful notes of yellow apple and acacia and a finish of lemon curd and green pears that highlights the sea water aromas in the sea urchin and stands up to the richness of the custard. Use a bit for marinating the clams and the pairing with be seamless! Scallop Ceviche Adapted from Waterbar Restaurant 1 sweet potato (or turnip) peeled and cut into 1/2" rounds 1 pound large dry packed bay or sea scallops 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1/4 cup diced red onion 1/4 cup diced jalapeño pepper 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Sea salt to taste and finish Paprika oil, bought or homemade (infuse 1 tablespoon paprika in 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil and 1/2 cup canola oil) Blanch sweet potato rounds in salted water for 5 minutes. Drain and chill. Dice raw scallops into 1/2" cubes and toss with lime juice. When coated, add red onion and jalapeño, stir then add olive oil to coat. Add salt to taste. Place potato coin onto plate and spoon ceviche over the top into a small mound. Finish the plate with a drizzle of paprika oil and fine sea salt; pair with Brut. Serves 4 Rosé Sparkling Poached Scallops with Celery Root Rémoulade Adapted from Waterbar Restaurant 8 large dry packed sea scallops 1 small bulb of celery root, julienned 1 carrot, julienned 1 tablespoon capers, drained 1 cup mayonnaise 1 small bunch flat leaf parsley, finely chopped 1 cup vegetable broth 3/4 cup rosé sparkling wine Sea salt to taste 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil Fresh herbs for salad to finish: parsley, tarragon, chervil, chives Place scallops in a medium size bowl and allow them to come up to room temperature. Mix celery root, carrots and capers together. Add mayonnaise. Toss and add the parsley. Set rémoulade aside. In a medium saucepan, bring the vegetable broth, wine and salt to a boil. Pour the poaching liquid over the raw scallops and allow to sit for 2 minutes. Remove the poached scallops to a warm plate. Over high heat, reduce half the poaching liquid by half; add butter and a dash of extra virgin olive oil. Center the celery root rémoulade on 4 serving plates and place 2 poached scallops on top. Garnish with a petite salad of fresh herbs; pair with a Brut Rosé. This dish is easily turned into an entrée by preparing 3 to 4 scallops per person and making a celery root purée to sit under the rémoulade. Serves 4 Fire-Roasted Fanny Bay Oysters with sofrito, chorizo & queso Manchego Adapted from The River Oyster Bar 2 ancho chilies 1 cup heavy cream 10 Fanny Bay oysters or substitute other medium to large oysters 1/2 poblano pepper 1/2 red pepper 1/4 Spanish onion 3 sprigs fresh thyme 6 sprigs fresh cilantro 2 cloves garlic 2 plum tomatoes, seeded 1 teaspoon hot paprika 2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 1/2 pound unsalted butter, softened 2 links good quality dried Spanish chorizo, peeled and very thinly sliced 1 cup Manchego cheese, shredded Remove seeds and ribs from the ancho chilies. Place heavy cream and ancho chile in a small sauce pan. Shuck oysters, but leave meat on one half of the shell and refrigerate. Discard the other shell half. Save the natural juice from the oyster (the liquor) and add it to the ancho chile-cream mixture. Bring to a simmer and reduce by half. Set aside to cool. In a food processor, blend together poblano and red peppers, onion, thyme, cilantro, garlic, tomatoes, paprika, cumin and black pepper until very finely chopped. Add butter to the vegetable mixture and blend well. Place finished sofrito butter in the refrigerator for 20 minutes until it becomes firm. Remove oysters from refrigerator and drizzle a touch of reduced ancho cream on each oyster along with a dollop of sofrito butter, a slice of chorizo and a bit of shredded Manchego. Place under a broiler or on top of a charcoal grill for 5 minutes or until cheese has melted. Remove from heat source and serve immediately; pair with vintage Cava. Serves 10 Oyster Pan Roast Adapted from Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 2 dozen extra select shucked oysters with juice or 2 pints shucked oysters with juice 2 tablespoons Heinz Sweet Chili Sauce 1/4 cup clam broth or juice 3 cups half & half 1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce (preferably Lea & Perrins) 1/4 teaspoon celery salt 4 slices white bread, toasted 1 teaspoon sweet Hungarian paprika Oyster crackers as accompaniment (optional) In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. Add oysters and their juice and cook for 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Add chili sauce and stir well. Add clam juice, half & half, Worcestershire sauce and celery salt. Reduce heat and simmer until oysters begin to curl slightly around the edges, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add a slice of white toast to four warm 9" soup bowls. Using a slotted spoon, transfer oysters over toast in bowls. Pour hot liquid contents over oysters, filling to about 1/4 " beneath the rim. Garnish with a dash of paprika and serve with oyster crackers (optional); pair with Prosecco. Serves 4 - CK

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