Kalamazoo Outdoor Gourmet recommends soaking grapevine chunks overnight in wine, tea or beer, which imbues more flavor in the grilled food than water alone.
	Hot off the Vine By Carole Kotkin
		Almost as hot as the inferno itself: Can a vineyard really burn? It seemed there was a persistent myth that grapevines were impervious to flames. The issue was put to rest, however, when screenwriter Robert Kamen's own Sonoma County vineyard suffered the same fate as its celluloid counterpart even as the movie was still showing in theaters. [See "Robert Kamen recasts his role from Grower to Vintner," June/July 2004.] The argument could have been more readily decided by consulting with barbecue and grill enthusiasts, many of whom fuel their cooking fires with vine trimmings or even highly sought vine trunks (torn out by growers for reasons such as age, phylloxera or the desire to replant with a more favored variety). Yes, grapevines are real wood with trunks that reach up to seven inches in diameter. They burn down to chunky embers that send up a nutty, slightly sweet smoke. Aficionados like the subtler notes added to the food - less overpowering than those lent by hickory or mesquite - that make for a better match with most wines. Alternatively, one can add grapevine chips, plain or soaked in wine, beer, tea or fruit juices, to a charcoal or gas fire, which can also achieve wine-friendly results. If Noah was, as scholars say, the world's first vintner, then grilling over grapevines could also date to Biblical times. Certainly the practice hasn't waned in popularity since, especially in "viticulturally active countries like France, [where grapevine cuttings] are in great supply," says TV host and The Barbecue! Bible author Steven Raichlen, who includes a recipe in his tome for snails grilled over grapevine cuttings from L'Hostal in Castellnou in southwest France. "[Cuttings] are sold in practically every gas station in the French countryside." Nor is the technique considered bourgeois. "I recently dined at Cordeillan-Bages, a Michelin two-star restaurant in Paulliac [Bordeaux], where tournedos of beef smoked over grapevines were a specialty of the house," he notes. This long-lived European tradition has caught on here, as well. Across the country, upscale, sophisticated restaurants have installed wood-burning grills and ovens, making them the backbone of their menus. Kimball Jones, executive chef at The Carneros Inn in Napa, California, and co-author of both Sharing the Vineyard Table and The Casual Vineyard Table, is launching a new restaurant in August. Its tentative name is Farm, an ideal fit for a chef whose driving philosophy is an interconnection with the land. It will feature a wood-fire oven and grill and will offer dozens of grilled and oven-smoked dishes. Special wine country twists include grilling with wine barrel wood chips and grapevine cuttings. "I live in the middle of a vineyard, so I just go into the backyard and prune some branches," Jones says. "It's hard to get big pieces of grapevine unless you are pulling out vines, but green cuttings in December are great. They dry out during the summer and those cuttings need to be soaked. I put them on top of mesquite to get a nice wet smoke." In effect, the vines are harvested twice and yield far more than just their grape clusters. After the harvest takes place each year in early October, Jones says the vineyard team hosts a memorable party. "Pits are dug and loaded with vine cuttings made from the previous year's crop. When the wood burns down to glowing coals, the grilling begins. The food is simple, abundant and good." Jones grills pork kebabs and Mission figs and grapes on grapevine skewers, "which contribute a wonderful smoky quality to the dish." Another favorite is squab skewered on grapevines. "Soaking the skewers in water before cooking prevents them from burning on the grill." While he admits that the smoky character of grilled foods is a bit difficult to pair with wines, Jones suggests wines aged in oak, like a Groth Cabernet Sauvignon or a fruity Zinfandel such as Ridge's Lytton Springs or PlumpJack Syrah. Wherever wine is grown, of course, good food is nearby. Take the annual "Good Life Series" of events at Cakebread Cellars in Rutherford. Culinary director Brian Streeter fires up the grill in the outdoor kitchen for the "Ring of Fire Grilling Class," where up to 16 students can master Mediterranean, southern barbecue and Asian grilling and smoking. "A big benefit for us is that grapevines are right here. I use them as kindling in a wood-burning fire to give a quick burst of heat at the end of grilling - for example on a crisp pizza for smoky undertones, or for a nice char on hanger steak with smoked tomato ketchup." Likewise, executive chef David Frakes, at the helm of Beringer's kitchen since 1999, takes advantage of his Napa Valley surroundings. After crush, he turns his attention to outdoor grilling with cabernet sauvignon grapevines. "I throw the vines on top of aromatic woods like alder, mesquite or maple, and then put the grill cover down to let the smoke swirl around and permeate the food," he says. "Twenty or 30 minutes is usually [long] enough to cook most small meats and impart enough smoke flavor." Frakes is careful not to overdo it, however, keeping in mind the wine that will eventually be paired with the fare. "Smoke is a reactive element and it has to be balanced by acid and salt in the food, otherwise the smoke will cause the wines to change. When the tastes in the food are balanced, with no one taste dominating another, the wine will remain relatively unchanged, just as the winemaker intended." For example, Frakes explains, "Grilled beef with mushrooms and cherry sauce works well with just about any red - from Pinot Noir to Merlot to Cabernet. It really depends on how much seasoning is added to the sauce. If the recipe is followed as is, then it's pretty much ready to go with a Pinot, but if a bigger wine is desired, then just a little more salt and/or acid may be needed. Lemon juice usually does the trick, but a splash of unseasoned rice wine vinegar works also because it is a neutral flavored acid." Christine Hanna, president of Healdsburg's Hanna Winery in Sonoma County, grilled lamb kebabs over grapevines, much to the delight of the 1,500 attendees at the annual "Taste of the Valley" event presented by the Alexander Valley Winegrowers the first weekend in June. "I tie the vines in foot-long bundles and soak them overnight in water. Used as kindling, they produce high heat to char and sear the lamb, leaving it rare in the middle. It's brushed with a Meyer lemon marinade and served with a Hanna Cabernet Sauvignon," she says. In Oregon, Jason Smith, chef de cuisine of Ponzi Vineyards' Dundee Bistro, says, "The tops of the vines are thinned in summer to enhance grape quality, and a limited amount of those green vines are used for grilling. The green summer vines are great for grilling king salmon seasoned with just salt and pepper." In late fall, after the grapevines have become dormant, they're pruned. The cuttings are dried for a month or longer and bundled up to be sold or given to local grillers. "In December and January, after the harvest, there is an unlimited supply," Smith enthuses. He soaks dried canes in water and uses them for slow-smoking a salt-and-pepper-seasoned pork shoulder from nearby Carlton Farms for at least eight hours, continually adding canes to the fire. "The best part is that the neutral smoke of the vines doesn't overpower wines," he adds. On the east coast, Hubert des Marais, executive chef of the Four Seasons Resort in Palm Beach, first learned about grilling with vines while on a trip to Uruguay and Chile. "When I visited the vineyards, there were daily country asados set up right in the vineyards. The barbecues consisted of whole baby goats, suckling pigs, sides of beef ribs and briskets grilled over vine trunks and cuttings. Once back in Florida, I was inspired to begin my own version of grapevine grilling," he says. Des Marais begins by tying a bundle of cuttings together that have been soaked in water before adding them to the grill to smolder and smoke. He wraps goat cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and fresh basil in blanched grape leaves, then grills them until the leaves get crispy and the cheese is warm. "Wrapping foods in grape leaves keeps them from sticking to the grill," he notes. He also wraps and grills lamb chops, shrimp and thin beef tenderloins. "I want them to cook quickly at high heat so they don't get too charred or over-smoked. You can't tell they're cooked on grapevines, but you know the smokiness smells good." Cooking outdoors over hot embers always signals the start of summer; it inspires simplicity and frees us from the constraints of the modern kitchen with all of its gadgets and devices. By taking a cue from wine country, fueling the fire with grapevines won't overwhelm the natural flavors of the food or, just as important, the wine that is paired with it. Food Editor Carole Kotkin manages the Ocean Reef Cooking School in Key Largo, is a syndicated columnist for KnightRidder; is co-author of Mmmmiami; and co-hosts Food & Wine Talk, a weekly radio show on South Florida's WDNA FM. In April, she was profiled in the "Florida Living: People & Places" issue of Southern Living. The art of great Grilling Grilling classes are offered seasonally by many of this article's featured chefs, as well as others: Barbecue University with Steven Raichlen at The Greenbrier Resort, Cooking School: (800) 228-5049 cookingschool@greenbrier.com Beringer Master Series on Food and Wine: (707) 967-4451 www.beringer.com Cakebread Cellars, Ring of Fire Grilling Class (800) 588-0298 ext. 240 patk@cakebread.com Camp Napa Culinary: (888) 999-4844 www.hughcarpenter.com Copia: The American Center for Wine, Food and The Arts: (888) 512-6742 www.copia.org Exploration of Food and Wine at Meadowood Resort: (800) 458-8080 www.meadowood.com Four Seasons Resort, Palm Beach, Hubert des Marais presents "Food and Wine 101": (561) 582-2800 ext. 8010 Great Chefs at Robert Mondavi Winery: (707) 968-2100 www.robertmondaviwinery.com - CK Grilling with Grapevines For do-it-yourself grapevine cookery, access Kalamazoo Outdoor Gourmet (www.kalamazoogourmet.com). The company sources product from Northern California, Oregon and Washington, then turns the smaller vines into chips (ranging in price from $12 for a two-pound bag to $90 for a cubic foot) and the larger, older ones into chunks, which give a longer burn. Geoffrey Bullard, director of marketing, says: "To enhance the flavor, we recommend soaking in water and inexpensive wine overnight before mixing them with charcoal." He also offers these tips for smoking: A combination of wet and dry vine chips in your grill's smoking tray is great for adding flavor. The burner under the smoking tray needs to be used as the heat source. Wait for the chips to start smoking before adding food to the grill. If your grill is not equipped with a smoking tray, make smoking envelopes from aluminum foil. Thoroughly soak half of the vine chips. Place a layer of dry chips on a sheet of aluminum foil and layer the wet chips on top. Wrap and seal the vine chips in the foil, and then pierce all over (on both sides) with a fork. Put the smoking envelope directly on your cooking surface over the fire. Smoking envelopes are great for longer smoking sessions, even if you have a smoking tray. Make several envelopes, and add a new one when the smoke from the previous pouch begins to diminish. Soaked vine chips can be placed directly on the charcoal or hardwood fire to add smoke, or you can place soaked grapevine chunks in the corner of your grill rack and shut the hood to create smoke. Grape leaves - Beyond middle eastern interpretations Grape leaves, or, as some call them, vine leaves, have been traditionally used for centuries by Eastern Mediterranean cooks to encase rice and lamb mixtures. They are most widely available in brine from sources for Greek imports. These leaves, which are packed in tight rolls, must be flattened, separated and covered with boiling water, then soaked until cool. They should be rinsed and dried, and any woody stem end removed before using. A second soaking in cold water will remove more of the brine if necessary. Increasingly, though, creativity has taken grape leaves out of their ethnographic constraints. Today, the typical rice and meat stuffing has given way to more innovative fillings, and the leaves themselves are more widely available fresh for use in blanching, wrapping, steaming or grilling - even less traditional techniques that will maintain the moisture and preserve the delicacy and texture of grilled foods. For example, John Ash, long-time culinary director for Brown-Forman wines, award-winning cookbook author, founder of John Ash & Company restaurant in Sonoma County and partner in Sauvignon Republic, roasts grape leaf-wrapped bundles of quail right down in the hot coals. "You'll need to do this with a charcoal grill," he advises. "Wait to place the birds until the coals are no longer flaming and are completely covered in ash. I wrap the grape leaf-covered birds with foil for the first part of their cooking. You can omit this step if you want, but it adds a little safety net to the process and helps ensure that the quail don't end up getting charred before they're done. Alternately, you can grill the grape leaf-wrapped quail without the foil on the grill instead of placing them down in the coals. Try it both ways and see which works for you." Grape leaves can also encase pieces of chicken, cheese, vegetables and fish in preparation for grilling. At Southpark Seafood Grill & Wine Bar in Portland, Oregon, executive chef Ronnie MacQuarrie layers wild king salmon in grape leaves and grills the savory packages over mesquite wood. She serves it with a pomegranate-Sherry glaze and pairs the dish with a Willamette Valley Andrew Rich Pinot Noir. Other imaginative uses include flavoring homemade cheeses with grape leaves, decorating appetizer trays with them or even lining terrine pans when making pâtés; in the latter instance, they act as a nonfat substitute for the slices of smoked bacon traditionally employed. Because of their handy size and mild flavor, grape leaves also work well as casings for rolled appetizers filled with savory mixtures of meat and poultry or sliced marinated salmon. One should use young, tender grape leaves that have not been treated with pesticides or fungicides. Dundee Bistro chef de cuisine Jason Smith notes, "The early leaves in June are best. Fresh leaves also need to be covered with boiling water to blanch them, then shocked in ice water to make them pliable." Stuffed grape leaves can also be brushed with olive oil and threaded on wine-soaked vine skewers, then cooked over hot coals. - CK All the recipes that follow will yield the best results with a fire built from grapevine wood and trimmings; alternatively, use charcoal with a few pre-soaked vine trimmings, chips or chunks (3 to 6 hours in water or wine) tossed on top of the coals. Grilled Tomato Soup From Chef Eric Villegas of Kalamazoo Outdoor Gourmet 5 pounds red tomatoes, cores removed French sea salt, to taste Cracked black pepper, to taste Hot sauce, to taste 2-3 cups heavy whipping cream Place whole tomatoes core side up and grill until completely black, turning once. Using kitchen tongs, carefully remove tomatoes and place in a heavy bottomed, non-reactive saucepan, along with any charred tomato skins that might be sticking to the grill. Roughly break up the soft tomatoes with a large spoon. Season with salt, pepper and hot sauce and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer uncovered, stirring frequently until a very thick purée remains (about 4 to 5 cups). Remove from heat. In a blender, process the purée in batches until smooth, then run through a fine strainer to remove seeds or bits of skin. Return purée to pan and stir in cream until well blended. Simmer until heated through, 3 to 5 minutes, re-seasoning to taste. Serve immediately. Serves 8 Grilled Grape Leaves Stuffed with Goat Cheese & Michigan Cherries From Chef Eric Villegas of Kalamazoo Outdoor Gourmet 8 large grape leaves 8 ounces goat cheese 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1/2 teaspoon sea salt 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1/2 cup dried tart cherries 2 cups extra virgin olive oil 8 thick slices artisan bread In a medium-size mixing bowl, mix goat cheese with salt, pepper, lemon juice and oil; set aside. Spread out grape leaves in sets of two overlapping leaves. Scoop about two ounces - a rounded heaping tablespoon - of goat cheese mixture and place in middle of a pair of leaves. Push 4 or 5 cherries in center of cheese. Starting with one end, fold each side of leaf pair until goat cheese is covered, making a rounded packet. Repeat with remaining leaves. Place stuffed leaves in a shallow dish and cover with extra virgin olive oil until ready to cook. Using tongs, place packets onto grill. When marked on one side, about one minute, turn over and grill until marked on other side. When cheese is soft, about one more minute, remove packets from grill and place on platter. Brush slices of bread with olive oil, season with salt and pepper and grill both sides until lightly browned and toasted. Serves 8 Escargots Grillés From The Barbecue! Bible by Steven Raichlen 2 dozen canned escargots with shells 12 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature 2 large shallots, very finely minced 3 cloves garlic, very finely minced 1 medium rib celery, very finely minced 3 tablespoons minced Italian parsley 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves 1/2 teaspoon curry powder Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Drain escargots in a colander and rinse well under cold running water. Drain again and blot dry with paper towels. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt 3 tablespoons butter. Add shallots, garlic, celery, parsley, thyme, curry powder, salt and pepper; sauté until vegetables are soft and translucent, but not brown, about 3 minutes. Remove pan from heat and let mixture cool to room temperature. Whisk remaining butter into cooled vegetable mixture. Place a portion of mixture, the size of a hazelnut, in each escargot shell, using the tip of a butter knife. Insert escargot in shell and fill with some of remaining vegetable mixture, placing each snail as it is filled on a baking sheet or platter. Prepare fire with vine trimmings. Place a vegetable grate or wire cake rack on the top of the grill grate. Arrange snails, open side up, on rack and grill until filling is bubbling and fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. Use tongs to transfer snails to plates and serve at once. Serves 4 as an appetizer Grape Leaf-Wrapped Salmon with Pomegranate-Sherry Glaze From Chef Ronnie MacQuarrie of Southpark Seafood Grill & Wine Bar 4 6-ounce portions wild king salmon Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 4 grape leaves, rinsed and trimmed Season salmon fillets with salt and pepper. Wrap fillets in grape leaves. Place on a hot grill and cook for approximately 3 minutes on each side until fish is medium rare. Drizzle with the Pomegranate-Sherry Glaze. Serves 4 For the Pomegranate-Sherry Glaze: 1 teaspoon minced shallot 1/2 cup Sherry 1/4 cup pomegranate molasses 1 teaspoon butter Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste In a small saucepan, put shallots, Sherry and pomegranate molasses and reduce the volume by 1/2. Stir in butter and add salt and pepper to taste. Grilled Quail in Grape Leaves From Chef John Ash 48 large grape leaves packed in brine 8 fresh bone-in quail Spice Mixture Rinse grape leaves and soak in cold water for at least 1 hour, changing water 3 or 4 times. Rinse quail and pat dry with paper towels. Rub spice mixture on inside as well as outside of quail. Drain grape leaves, pat dry and wrap each quail with 6 or so leaves; tie with kitchen twine. Cover quail with at least 2 layers of leaves, then wrap in heavy duty foil. Place quail bundles in hot embers and cook for 10 minutes, turning a couple of times. Remove foil from quail and replace them in their grape leaf wraps back in coals for another 10 minutes, turning 3 or 4 times until the outer layer of the grape leaves are lightly charred. To test for doneness, insert tip of a metal skewer into thickest part of thigh. It should come out very hot. Discard the leaves and serve. Serves 4 For the Spice Mixture: 1 teaspoon each whole coriander, cumin, black peppercorn and salt 2 teaspoons ground sumac or 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Grind whole spices and salt in a spice grinder. Mix these and remaining ingredients together until well combined. Tuscan Pork Ribs Affumicato From Chef Jason Smith of Dundee Bistro 4 large cloves garlic 2 tightly packed tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves Extra virgin olive oil 3 1/2 pounds country style pork ribs, cut 1-2" thick Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper One bundle dried grapevines, soaked in water The night before, mince together garlic and rosemary, and combine with oil. Rub over ribs, cover and refrigerate for at least 12 hours. Preheat oven at 325°. Separate ribs onto baking pan and sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Roast for 30 to 40 minutes until cooked through. Finish by grilling on a grapevine- stoked fire until ribs are crusty brown. Serves 4 to 6 Grilled Lamb & Vegetable Kebabs From Christine Hanna of Hanna Winery 1/2 cup olive oil Juice of two lemons, preferably Meyer 2 cloves of garlic, chopped 1 tablespoon ground cumin 1 tablespoon salt 1 teaspoon ground pepper teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 tablespoon fresh thyme 1 3-pound leg of lamb, bone removed, fat trimmed, meat cut into 11/2" chunks 2 or 3 zucchini, cut into 11/2" chunks 1 eggplant, cut into 11/2" chunks 1 large red onion, cut into 11/2" chunks Pre-soaked vine or wood skewers Whisk oil, lemon, garlic, spices, salt and pepper together. Using about of the marinade, coat the lamb chunks and let refrigerate for several hours. Toss the veggie mixture in remaining marinade and let refrigerate for up to one hour. Thread lamb and veggies on skewers. Grill to desired doneness, about five minutes per side. Serves 6 to 8 Pork Kebabs on Vine Skewers with Mission Figs & Grapes From The Casual Vineyard Table by Kimball Jones 21/2 pounds pork tenderloin, cut into 1" cubes 12 fresh Mission figs, ends trimmed, halved lengthwise 3/4 pound large, firm red Flame or Thompson seedless grapes 1 cup quinoa 2 cups water Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 3/4 cup pine nuts, toasted 3-4 fresh mint leaves, cut into chiffonade 1/2 lemon, cut into quarters, for serving 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest, for garnish Pre-soaked vine or wood skewers Assemble the kebabs on 8" skewers, alternating between the pork, figs and grapes. Rub well with the spice mixture. Place the kebabs in a flat pan and evenly pour the marinade over all. Marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or up to overnight, turning the skewers once or twice. In a saucepan over high heat, combine the quinoa and water. Bring to a boil, decrease the heat to achieve a simmer, cover and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, until all water is absorbed and the grains are tender. Season with salt and pepper. While quinoa is cooking, season kebabs with salt and pepper. Cook on grill rack, turning once, for about 10 minutes, until the pork is cooked through but still moist. Stir pine nuts and mint into quinoa and divide among 4 plates. Place 2 to 3 kebabs on quinoa. Sprinkle salt to taste and squeeze a wedge of lemon over each serving. Garnish with lemon zest and serve immediately. Serves 4 For the Rub: 1 teaspoon curry powder 1/4 teaspoon paprika 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin 1/4 teaspoon ground coriander 3/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg In a small bowl, mix all ingredients together. (The rub may be made in advance and stored in an airtight container for up to 1 month.) For the Marinade: 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed Meyer lemon juice (or equal parts orange juice and lemon juice) 3/4 cup Merlot 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon chopped garlic In a small bowl, mix all ingredients together. Grilled Filet of Beef with Morel Mushrooms & Sour Cherry Sauce From Executive Chef David Frakes of Beringer Vineyards 8 filet mignon (3 to 3 1/2 pounds total), trimmings reserved for sauce 8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 4 8" rosemary sprigs, leaves reserved and stems discarded 4 bay leaves, crumbled 1/4 cup corn oil In a small bowl, gently mix all ingredients together. Wrap with plastic and marinate in refrigerator overnight (or at least for 4 to 6 hours). Remove beef from marinade and season both sides liberally with salt and pepper. Carefully place beef on grill and cook for about 5 to 7 minutes per side. Place filet mignon in center of plate, cover with warm mushrooms and drizzle with cherry sauce. Serves 8 For the Morel Mushrooms: 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 pound morel mushrooms, cut into bite-size pieces 3/4 teaspoon garlic, minced 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste In a very hot sauté pan, add butter and oil. Once melted, add mushrooms. Toss to coat well and cook for about 5 minutes or until mushrooms have softened. Make a well in center of mushrooms and add garlic and parsley. Slowly incorporate into mushrooms. Season and reserve. For the Sour Cherry Sauce: 3 cups red wine 2 tablespoons shallots, minced 1/2 cup beef trimmings 6 cups veal stock 40 dried sour cherries In a small, non-reactive saucepan, place wine and shallots. Reduce wine over medium heat until only 1 tablespoon of liquid remains. Remove from heat and reserve. In a very hot skillet, add a little corn oil. Sear beef scraps until very golden brown and crispy (about 5 minutes). Drain oil from pan and place pan back on stove. Add 1 cup of stock to pan and reduce until it gets thick and syrupy (about 2 to 3 minutes). Add another 11/2 cups of stock and repeat. Finally, add remaining stock and wine reduction. Reduce to desired thickness then strain into another pan. Add cherries and season with a little salt and a splash of lemon juice. Bring back to a boil and serve immediately. Grilled Tri-Tip with Ancho Relish From Chef Brian Streeter of Cakebread Cellars 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon coriander, ground 1 teaspoon cumin, ground 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon black pepper 2 pounds tri-tip 2 tablespoons olive oil Combine paprika, coriander, cumin, salt and pepper to make a rub. Brush the tri-tip with olive oil and coat with rub evenly. Allow to marinate over night. Brush grill with oil and grill steak to desired doneness. Remove meat from grill and place on resting rack. Slice and top with room-temperature Ancho Relish. Serves 6 For the Ancho Relish: 3 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 cup onions, minced 2 tablespoons garlic, minced 6 ancho chili peppers, toasted, deseeded and crumbled 1/2 cup red wine vinegar 3/4 cup beef stock Salt In a small saucepan over medium heat, add oil and onions, then cook until soft. Add garlic and cook for two minutes, making sure garlic does not burn. Add anchos, vinegar and beef stock. Simmer for 10 minutes, season to taste with salt, and allow to cool. The relish tastes best when made a day in advance. Grilled Flat Iron Steak with Chimichurri Sauce From Chef Brian Streeter of Cakebread Cellars 1 2-pound flat iron steak 4 cloves garlic, mashed 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Place flat iron steak in a shallow casserole dish. Rub with garlic and oil. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours or overnight. Season steak with salt and pepper. Grill for about 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium rare. Slice across the grain into thin slices and serve with Chimichurri Sauce. Serves 4 to 6 For the Chimichurri: 1 cup flat leaf parsley leaves, washed and dried 1 cup cilantro leaves, washed and dried 2 cloves garlic 2 jalapeños, seeds and veins removed 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon lime juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Combine the parsley, cilantro, garlic, jalapeños and oil in the work bowl of a food processor. Pulse until smooth. Add lime juice and season with salt and pepper. Set aside at room temperature for an hour for flavors to come together.

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