Wine Reviews from Wine News
Tasters' Choice Selections
96 Castello di Fonterutoli, 2003 Siepi
Toscana IGT, Italy
Ruby-black hue. This lovely merlot/sangiovese blend offers intense, Saint-Julien-like scents of cherry and orange peel together with mixed floral, licorice and earth notes, including dry soil and graphite. Silky, perfectly balanced, kirsch-like flavors of blackberry, chopped herbs and cedar. Dry, lingering close. A magnificent wine. $100 / 1,000 imported cases
94 Morgan, 2006 Hat Trick Chardonnay
Double L Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands
Burnished gold hue. Sweet aromas of grilled pineapple and toasted oak with hints of nutmeg. Soft entry emitting layered flavors of caramel, butterscotch and peach laced with toasted oak and minerals. Fruit, oak and minerals mesh nicely in the lengthy finish. $65 / 149 cases
95 Beaurenard, 2005 Boisrenard
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France
Purple to the rim; thick and rather viscous. Aromas of plum, blueberry, clove, graphite and a wisp of char. Upfront flavors of black cherry and plum with a flinty, mineral-like influence. Sweetness builds in the close, along with a pungent earthiness that wraps up on a smoky note. $92 / 750 imported cases
94 Montes, 2005 Folly Syrah
Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley, Chile
Black-garnet hue with a viscous ruby rim. Minty, menthol aromas of blueberry jam with a smoky, campfire nuance. A well-structured, fruit-driven wine with flavors of black cherry, anise and chalk. Youthful, fine tannins join polished oak and delectable black fruit in the finish. $93 / 3,000 cases
Best Value Selections
92 Veramonte, 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserva, Colchagua Valley, Chile
Inky black hue. Powerful scents of black cherry, rum cake and allspice. Velvety tannins and creamy flavors of blueberry and blackberry with hints of cinnamon and mocha. Plush tannins with cherry, chocolate and vanilla in the close. $10 / 25,000 cases
90 Veramonte, 2006 Chardonnay
Reserva, Casablanca Valley, Chile
Bright green-gold hue. Crisp scents of slate, mineral and lemon peel. Creamy acidity and juicy flavors of pear and golden pineapple. Impressions of vanilla, oak and buttered toast in the pear-driven close. $10 / 25,000 cases
90 Graffigna, 2005 Malbec
Centenario, San Juan, Argentina
Viscous garnet hue with a fuchsia rim. Heady aromas of maraschino cherry, cedar and menthol. Tart cherry fruit, balanced tannins and lively acids. Lengthy, fruit-driven finish with a lingering mineral nuance. Malbec is the prized grape of Argentina and this wine tells us why: flavor and price. $13 / 7,000 imported cases
90 MontGras, 2005 Quatro
Reserva, Colchagua Valley, Chile
Dense crimson-black hue. Powerful scents of menthol, plum and mocha. Big, jammy flavors of black cherry and blackberry display refined tannins. Continuing blackberry syrup notes in the lingering close. $16 / 20,000 cases
California
Chardonnay
90 Calera, 2006 Chardonnay
Mt. Harlan
Ripe aromas of butterscotch, cinnamon, caramel and prominent new oak. Accessible tropical fruit flavors of pineapple and banana with peach highlights. Tasty, fruit-driven finish with hints of minerals and clove joining the ready-to-drink mélange. $25
88 Geyser Peak, 2006 Chardonnay
Reserve, Alexander Valley
Fresh aromas of orange peel, pineapple and peach. Supple, accessible flavors of sliced apple and peach nectar. Sweet, even close with a lingering oak nuance. $23
87 Hayman Hill, 2006 Chardonnay
Reserve Selection, Russian River Valley
Buttered popcorn and apricot aromas with a hint of flintiness. Peach and wet stone flavors offer a note of vanilla. Light, dry finish. $15
87 Miner Family, 2006 Chardonnay
Napa Valley
Tropical fruit bouquet emits pineapple, banana and mango with a whiff of fresh oak. Ripe peach and pineapple flavors in a soft, ready-to-drink close. $30
91 Norton Ridge, 2006 Chardonnay
Russian River Valley
Minerally, squeaky-clean, fresh scents of pear, dust and damp stone. Spry, peppy flavors of stone fruit pit and lemon. Balanced finish enhances its food-friendly qualities. $25
87 MooBuzz, 2006 Chardonnay
Sonoma Coast
Shy bouquet with hints of apricot and dark honey. Soft, vanillin-accented flavors of peach and apricot. Light, drying mineral finish offers low tones of butterscotch and honey. $20
93 Morgan, 2006 Chardonnay
Double L Vnyd, Santa Lucia Highlands
Fresh citrus aromas with an attractive charred oak nuance drifting in and out of the bouquet. Supple butterscotch, peach and new oak flavors. A fruit-driven, well-structured Chard with a vibrant zing of clove in the close. $44
86 Raymond, 2006 R Collection Chardonnay
Monterey
Sweet peach and pineapple aromas with a wisp of basil. Crisp, clean mineral and citrus flavors. Lively, fresh finish. $13
90 ZD Wines, 2006 Chardonnay
California
Forward, ripe aromas of grilled pineapple, dark honey and charred oak. Peach and pineapple flavors with a youthful, acidic bite. Polished oak and minerals punctuate the close. $40
Cabernet & Blends
90 Ballentine, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Maple Lane, Napa Valley
Minty aromas with hints of cedar and evergreen. Juicy black cherry and licorice flavors with very fine, sandpaper tannins. Dry, mineral-laced finish displays a lingering sweetness. $60
92 Barnett, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Cyrus-Ryan Vineyard, Napa Valley
An attractive, uplifting sweetness in a bouquet of ripe plum, mocha and vanilla. Excellent weight and texture with tasty black cherry fruit laced with new oak. Youthful tannins dominate the close. Needs time to turn the corner. $90
94 Barnett, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Rattlesnake Hill, Spring Mtn, Napa Valley
Ripe bouquet of plum, mocha and cassis. Thick and juicy with black fruit, chalky tannins and smoky oak. Lengthy, spicy finish packed with fruit, oak, minerals and muscle. Great potential and, like the Cyrus-Ryan offering, there's more to come with age. $120
90 Barnett, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley
New oak aromas with suggestions of black cherry and mint. Tart black cherry fruit rife with youthful, chalky tannins and an aggressive oakiness; however, sweetness builds in the finish. Another Barnett that will improve even more with additional bottle age. $65
87 Clos du Val, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Cherry-menthol scents with undertones of cedar, oak and coffee bean. Crisp cherry and cranberry fruit spiked with a vibrant mix of redwood, cedar and oak aspects. Dusty, tart, dry close. $32
88 Faust, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Campfire aromas with hints of brown spice. Sweet cherry flavors with notes of pencil shavings and new oak. Drying finish delivers wood tannins and a lick of clove. $50
88 Frei Brothers, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Alexander Valley
Mixed aromas of blueberry, plum, mocha and clove. Sweet and creamy with soft cherry fruit and fine-grain tannins. Exceedingly ripe, ready-to-drink finish. $24
90 Geyser Peak, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Alexander Valley
Heady, forward aromas of blueberry, plum and mint with hints of charred oak and graphite. Supple and ripe with accessible black fruit flavors laced with soft tannins and tempered acidity. A touch of youthful astringency in the close checks the sweetness; drinking nicely right now. $19
90 Grgich Hills, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Menthol aromas with nuances of cherry fruit and spicy peppermint. Creamy, ripe red fruit and anise with a secondary mineral flavor. Sweet finish with hints of tobacco and cedar. $60
88 Gundlach Bundschu, 2004 Mt. Cuvée
Rhinefarm Vineyard, Sonoma Valley
Pungent cherry fruit aromas with fresh cedar and redwood accents. Sweet-tangy red fruit with an obvious mineral-like nuance. Even, balanced close resonates with cherry fruit. $24
92 Francis Ford Coppola, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Director's Cut, Alexander Valley
Uplifting aromas of cherry, blueberry, chocolate, plum and a whiff of graphite. Loaded with dark fruit flavors, baker's chocolate and coconut accents. A tasty, polished wine that delivers classic California fruit, from front to back, at a fair price. $26
88 Judd's Hill, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
A menthol-scented bouquet with whiffs of fresh oak and maple syrup. Earthy, stewed red fruit flavors laced with tea and tobacco accents. Lingering, vibrant finish with a clove-like zing. $42
89 Kendall-Jackson, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Grand Reserve, Sonoma County
Pungent, black fruit aromas followed by mint, graphite and a whiff of bell pepper. Juicy black fruit flavors with K-J's signature ripeness and weight. Well-meshed tannins punctuate the finish. $26
92 Merriam, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Block 21, Dry Creek Valley
Grapy black fruit aromas with pungent, earthy accents. Juicy and rather supple with flavors of plum and black cherry with balanced, well-integrated tannins and acids. Lengthy finish with lightly toasted oak joining the mix. $35
92 Miner Family, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Oakville, Napa Valley
Dusty black cherry aromas with hints of coconut and white pepper. Soft cherry fruit entry with drying mineral flavors and charred oak notes. Balanced, well-integrated tannins join ripe fruit and toasted oak in the lengthy close. $65
86 Oberon, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Attractive bouquet offers raspberry and oak scents. Cherry flavors underscored with cedar, redwood and minerals. Tart, crisp finish resonates with red fruit and a good lick of oak. $20
88 Oberon, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Oso Vineyard, Napa Valley
Enticing aromas of red fruit, charred oak, red licorice and clove. Compact, claret-like flavors of earth, cherry fruit and cedar. Tart, acidic close offers redwood spiciness. $45
87 PEJU Province, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Fresh red fruit aromas with oak and clove accents. Supple cherry fruit dominated by spicy redwood flavors. A rather sweet, candied finish with hints of tea and red licorice. $40
88 Robert Craig, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Affinity, Napa Valley
Aromas of rich blueberry and vanilla. Crisp, spicy cherry fruit with hints of oak, graphite and prickly tannins. Dry, tart, oak-laced close. Needs time. $50
90 Robert Hall, 2005 Meritage
Hall Ranch, Paso Robles
Front-loaded oakinesss in the bouquet with a burst of red cherry. Tart and somewhat crisp; packed with cherry and cranberry fruit with youthful, scratchy wood tannins. Biting acidity in the finish. Should further improve with age. $40
87 Rodney Strong, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County
Red fruit aromas with hints of evergreen and menthol. Acidic black cherry fruit followed by oak and mineral flavors. Rather tart, biting close dominated by wood tannins. $25
91 Rodney Strong, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Sonoma County
Fresh new oak aromas with suggestions of mint and graphite. Tasty plum and black cherry fruit flavors imbued with oak and hints of tobacco. Sweet, well-integrated tannins punctuate the mocha- and clove-kissed finish. $40
92 Rodney Strong, 2004 Symmetry
Meritage, Alexander Valley
Earthy red fruit aromas accented by whiffs of cedar, tobacco and campfire. Crisp red and black fruit flavors laced with minerals. Dusty tannins and black cherry fruit drive the long finish. $55
90 Schrader, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Rich aromas of black cherry, minerals and coffee bean with a note of sweet tobacco. Youthful and somewhat acidic and tannic, however, there is a core of bright cherry fruit that remains front and center. The close shows a light tartness, yet it holds onto the lingering sweetness. $35
93 Signorello, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Unfiltered, Napa Valley
Heady aromas of blueberry, mint and graphite. Forward sweetness with flavors of plum, black cherry and coffee bean. Rich, balanced finish with a youthful, peppery nuance. $45
93 Signorello, 2004 Padrone
Unfiltered, Napa Valley
Mixed aromas of blueberry, plum, black cherry and bacon fat. Accessible, delicious cherry flavors highlighted with mocha, coffee bean and new oak. Well-integrated tannins and acids make for a well-balanced finish. $95
93 Soñador, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Enticing aromas of raspberry, vanilla and clove. A slow-opening, poised wine imbued with rich, youthful cherry fruit, sandpaper tannins and flinty, mineral-like undertones; judicious oak treatment complements the fruit. Lengthy, fruit-driven finish tempered by a peppery note. $56
88 Stuhlmuller, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Alexander Valley
Mixed bouquet of black cherry, plum, glove leather and a note of lanolin. Crisp and somewhat compact with a core of cherry fruit and fine-grain tannins. Tight, youthful close that should continue to improve. $36
92 Temple Family, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Initially shy, opening to ripe plum and blueberry aromas with a whiff of graphite. A viscous, lovely textured wine offering blueberry, plum and mineral flavors laced with dusty tannins. Excellent length and depth of fruit with a lick of mocha in the close. $48
90 Thomas Fogarty, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Santa Cruz Mountains
Reticent, slow-opening bouquet of black licorice and cedar. Sweet black cherry fruit with charcoal-like aspects. Youthful tart finish with biting acids and sandpaper tannins. Should continue to improve. $50
92 Thomas Fogarty, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Vallerga Vnyd, Yountville, Napa Valley
Charred oak aromas with mixed pencil shaving, flint and clove-like accents. Rich, black cherry fruit with crisp acidity and dusty tannins that carry through to the finish. A kindred balance and ripeness runs through all of Fogarty's Cabs. $50
92 Thomas Fogarty, 2003 Lexington Meritage
Camel Hill Vnyd, Santa Cruz Mountains
Exotic aromas of fig and cherry-chocolate with a wisp of charred oak. Youthful, tart cherry fruit flavors with subtle pencil shaving and oak notes. Dry close imbued with fine-grain tannins; however, the sweetness hangs on. $45
92 ZD Wines, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Mixed aromas of plum, blueberry, mint and campfire. Layers of ripe plum, black cherry, mocha and combed tannins. Lengthy finish with melded black fruit, minerals and new oak aspects. $50
83 Earthquake, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Lodi - $28
85 PEJU Province, NV Red Table Wine
California - $22
85 Shannon Ridge, 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
Lake County - $19
Argentina
Reds
86 Caligiore, 2007 Malbec
Mendoza
A pleasant bouquet of plum and mocha with a hint of flint. Well-oaked cherry and cranberry flavors coupled with rough-hewn tannins. Youthful astringency caps the finish. $15
87 Graffigna, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Grand Reserve, San Juan
Light aromas of plum, minerals and cedar chest. Extracted flavors of peppery cherry and plum. Dry, tart close with cedar and oak impressions followed by youthful, unresolved tannins. $20
87 Graffigna, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Centenario, San Juan
Ripe cherry and vanilla aromas with hints of charcoal and pencil shavings. Charred cherry flavors with woody tannins. Sweet, dry finish with cherry fruit echoes. $13
87 Graffigna, 2003 Red Wine
Limited Release, San Juan
Dried red fruit aromas with hints of brown spices. Easy-drinking cherry flavors with mineral notes and a hint of cayenne. Dry, spicy close. $35
88 Graffigna, 2004 Malbec
Grand Reserve, San Juan
Ripe bouquet of black cherry with flint and graphite accents. Crisp red fruit laced with drying mineral flavors. Sweet, lengthy finish with dusty tannins and definitive oakiness. $20
Chile
Whites
86 Amaral, 2006 Chardonnay
Unoaked, San Antonio Valley
Pungent scents of charred oak and orange peel. Juicy flavors of pineapple and guava. Charred oak dominates the lemon-driven close. $18
90 Amaral, 2006 Sauvignon Blanc
San Antonio Valley
Fresh scents of grapefruit, lemon and slate. Creamy flavors of Granny Smith apple and lemon custard. Hints of honey and paraffin in the apple-driven finish. $18
87 Santa Rita, 2006 Chardonnay
Reserva, Casablanca Valley
Clean scents of pineapple and white peach with hints of butter and toast. Juicy flavors of white peach and pear nectar. Impressions of lemon custard in the juicy close. $14
88 Santa Rita, 2006 Medalla Real Chardonnay
Special Reserve, Casablanca Valley
Aromas of white peach and apple cider. Fresh flavors of lemon zest and Golden Delicious apple. Hints of vanilla in the peach-spiked finish. $17
90 Santa Rita, 2007 Floresta Sauvignon Blanc
Leyda Valley
Reserved scents of slate, minerals and honey. Juicy flavors of lemon cream, green pineapple and cider. Continued impressions of ripe citrus in the lingering close. $23
86 Santa Rita, 2007 Sauvignon Blanc
Reserva, Casablanca Valley
Crisp scents of lemon and apple cider. Juicy flavors of apple and pineapple. A touch of minerals in the clean finish. $14
Cabernet & Blends
86 Baron Philippe de Rothschild, 2006 Escudo Rojo
Maipo
Shy cherry aromas with hints of redwood and cedar. Upfront cherry pop flavors with notes of coffee bean and white pepper. Red fruit and dry, pencil-like aspects in the youthful, astringent finish. $15
86 Casa Lapostolle, 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
Rapel Valley
Fresh vanillin scents with hints of cranberry and light oak. Soft, accessible cherry flavors display a vibrant mintiness. Finish dries up with minerals and youthful, sandpaper tannins. $13
93 Casa Lapostolle, 2005 Clos Apalta
Limited Release, Colchagua Valley
Fresh aromas of blueberry, cream and licorice with wisps of graphite and campfire. Supple plum and black cherry flavors laced with toasted oak and minerals. Jammy, creamy close with soft, nicely meshed tannins. $75
88 Intriga, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Maipo Valley
Pungent scents of eucalyptus and menthol. Gritty tannins and ripe flavors of plum and black cherry. Hints of tobacco and orange pekoe tea mark the perky finish. $30
92 Montes Alpha, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley
Forward aromas of blueberry, coconut and new oak. Supple texture with intense flavors of plum, blueberry and oak with a hint of sweet tobacco joined by well-integrated tannins, which allow the rich black fruit to play out in the finish. A classic Montes with telltale opulence. $25
88 MontGras, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Ninquèn, Colchagua Valley
Powerful scents of black cherry, menthol and añejo rum. Full tannins and ripe blackberry syrup flavors. Espresso and tobacco in the dusty close. $34
93 Santa Rita, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Casa Real, Alto Santa Rita Vnyd, Maipo Vly
Complex scents of blackberry, tea and sandalwood. Refined tannins and creamy flavors of black cherry, cola and mocha. Layers of blueberry, blackberry and Valrhona chocolate in the velvety close. $60
90 Santa Rita, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Medalla Real, Special Reserve, Maipo Vly
Complex scents of plum, black cherry and espresso with hints of oak and white pepper. Creamy flavors of blackberry and blueberry. Smooth tannins yield to raspberry and espresso in the finish. $19
91 Veramonte, 2005 Primus
Casablanca Valley
Pungent scents of oak, bell pepper and thistle with hints of mocha and plum. Sweet flavors of plum and blackberry. Velvety tannins and lingering raspberry, black cherry and mocha impressions in the juicy close. $18
84 Santa Rita, 2006 "120" Cabernet Sauvignon
Rapel Valley - $9
Syrah/Shiraz
89 Antu, 2005 Ninquén Syrah
Colchagua Valley
Intense aromas of plum, leather and black pepper with a touch of menthol. Silky tannins and juicy flavors of raspberry and plum. Leather, tar and bramble emerge in the raspberry-driven close. $20
92 Montes Alpha, 2006 Syrah
Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley
Defined freshness in a bouquet that imparts black cherry, plum, licorice and espresso bean. Accessible black cherry flavors with a compote-like sweetness. Dry, spicy finish imbued with fine-grain tannins and a suggestion of black pepper. $25
88 Santa Rita, 2006 Shiraz
Reserva, Maipo Valley
Intense aromas of plum and black cherry with undertones of wintergreen and thistle. Sweet, syrupy flavors of blueberry and black cherry. Velvety tannins and lingering raspberry notes mark the close. $14
Other Reds
86 MontGras, 2006 Carmenère
Reserva, Colchagua Valley
Minty raspberry and plum aromas with a note of glove leather. Tart and rather crisp with black cherry fruit laced with prickly tannins and acids. Dry, spicy, flinty finish. $20
86 MontGras, 2006 Merlot
Reserva, Colchagua Valley
Black cherry and plum aromas with a wisp of pencil shavings. Sweet cherry fruit flavors impart a dusty, talc-like mouth-feel. Dry finish of cherry fruit coupled with a lingering woody nuance. $13
France
Burgundy
94 Bruno Clair, 2004 En la rue de Vergy
Morey-Saint-Denis
Perfectly steely scents of pineapple, honeysuckle, anise and damp slate. Very oily but very nervy flavors of lime juice and minerals. White pepper in the close. $70
92 François Legros, 2005 Puligny-Montrachet
Puligny-Montrachet
Ripe poached pear aromas with hints of peach and charred oak. Tart and somewhat edgy with compact peach and apricot flavors. Dry, tangy finish offers promising fruit that should open up with more bottle age. $70
93 Domaine Guy Bocard, 2005 Vieilles Vignes
Meursault
Fresh-sliced lemon aromas with a cucumber accent. Creamy, white frosting-like sweetness tempered by fresh acids and minerals. Youthful, dry close; could use a little more bottle age. $52
94 Domaine Leflaive, 2005 Bourgogne Blanc
Bourgogne
Fresh, rich aromas of pineapple, orange marmalade and clover honey. Perfectly balanced flavors of buttery stone fruit, oak spice and honey reach far beyond their humble appellation. Plush finish. $54
90 Domaine des Malandes, 2005 Montmains
Chablis Premier Cru
Verdant at first with hints of basil and rhubarb followed by zesty citrus notes. Dry with a youthful tartness and melded lemon-lime citrus and mineral flavors that carry through to the close. $36
88 Domaine des Malandes, 2006 Petit Chablis
Petit Chablis
Fresh, citrusy lemon-lime aromas with a wisp of grapefruit. Light and airy with dusty mineral flavors laced with zesty citrus fruit. Dry, flinty finish. $21
90 Olivier Leflaive, 2006 Les Sétilles
Bourgogne
Perfumed scents of pineapple, honeysuckle and beeswax. Flavors of pineapple, dried apricot and minerals are surprisingly intense for a Bourgogne. Trace of butter in the close. $19
94 Domaine Pillot, 2005 Les Vergers
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru
Aromas of clove and charred oak. Silky-textured ripe peach and new oak flavors. Layers of unctuous tropical fruit laced with fresh acidity, charred oak and mineral flavors. Excellent length and staying power. $69
92 Domaine Pillot, 2005 Noyers Brets
Puligny-Montrachet
A light petroleum scent followed by emerging aromas of pencil shavings, apricot and white peach. Weighty, soft tropical fruit and mineral-like undertones. Youthful astringency smooths out in the lightly sweet close. $49
90 Domaine Vessigaud, 2005 Bois Marechal
Mâcon-Charnay
Ripe aromas of butterscotch and minerals. Juicy peach and apricot flavors impart a supple mouth-feel. Fresh, tasty finish has an enduring, nectar-like sweetness. $23
92 Domaine Vessigaud, 2006 Haut de Fuissé
Mâcon-Fuissé
Fresh and buttery with ripe peach and light oak aromas. Exotic tropical fruit flavors with youthful acidity. A hint of seashore brine joins the medley of fruit in the close. $25
93 Domaine Vessigaud, 2005 Vieilles Vignes
Pouilly-Fuissé
Upfront oak aromas of ripe peach and vanilla extract. Rich and fruity with pineapple and peach flavors displaying great follow through and depth. Sweet, charred oakiness surfaces in the finish. $41
Loire
88 Domaine Jacques Rouzé, 2006 Villalin
Quincy
Aromas of orange zest and dark honey. Spicy apple and pear flavors offer a hint of anise. Crisp, dry finish with mineral accents and a lick of clove. $21
87 Jean-Claude Chatelain, 2006 Pouilly-Fumé
Pouilly-Fumé
Mixed bouquet of tropical fruit and herbs. Ripe and tangy with white peach and a hint of basil. Sweet, lingering close displays a pungent earthiness. $27
88 Jean-Claude Chatelain, 2006 Sélection
Sancerre
Pear and lemon-lime aromas with a wisp of mint. Crisp citrus peel flavors offer a slight herbal nuance. Youthful, dry, chalky finish. $28
88 Remy Pannier, 2006 Pouilly-Fumé
Pouilly-Fumé
Fresh citrus peel aromas. Dry white peach flavors with a hint of tomato leaf. Zesty, crisp, to-the-point finish. $22
90 Remy Pannier, 2006 Sancerre
Sancerre
Mixed aromas of citrus and cat box. Supple and verdant with citrus peel and peach flavors. Crisp, enjoyable close with a pleasant combination of fresh acidity and lively, fresh fruit. $22
87 Remy Pannier, 2006 Sauvignon Blanc
Vallée des Jardins
Light citrus aromas with wet stone accents. Tangy citrus flavors with a calcareous-like dustiness. Easy-drinking, dry finish with wisps of garden scents. $11
86 Remy Pannier, 2006 Vouvray
Vouvray
Shy lemon scents with a hint of earthiness. Upfront flavors of pear and peach. Cotton candy-like sweetness caps the close. $12
Rhône
Whites
90 Jean-Luc Colombo, 2006 La Belle di Mai
Saint-Péray
Light tropical fruit aromas with hints of oak and honey. Round, supple texture with flavors of apricot and peach. Finishes with a lingering toasted nuance and a hint of white pepper. $36
87 Jean-Luc Colombo, 2006 La Redonne
Côtes-du-Rhône
Perfumed aromas of jasmine and peach. Controlled viognier fruit imparts peach and grapefruit flavors. Dry close with a citrus peel-like astringency. $17
87 Jean-Luc Colombo, 2006 Les Abeilles
Côtes-du-Rhône
Shy aromas of oak, peach and white flowers. Tangy flavors of nectarine, peach and minerals. Dry, crisp finish with a hint of graphite. $12
90 Jean-Michel Gerin, 2005 Coteau de la Loye
Condrieu
Heady aromas of anise and licorice. Soft flavors of stewed apple, clove and dark honey. An exotic, stylized wine with ripe, compote-like sweetness in the finish. $66
87 Château Lamargue, 2006 Blanc
Costières de Nimes
Bright aromas of citrus and minerals. Crisp, dry flavors of tart peach and honey. Dusty, dry close with youthful, cleansing acidity. $11
90 Mas de la Dame, 2005 Coin Caché Blanc
Coteaux d'Aix en Provence
Forward oak aromas with a potpourri of tropical fruit and dark honey. Supple, stylized flavors of mango, peach and grilled pineapple. Round, ripe finish laced with well-toasted oak. $34
87 Mas de la Dame, 2006 La Stèle Blanc
Coteaux d'Aix en Provence
Light aromas emitting white frosting-like sweetness. Fresh mix of peach and dusty mineral flavors. Dry finish with a controlled, lingering sweetness. $20
Reds
88 Beaurenard, 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Ripe cherry and cream scents. A lighter style Châteauneuf with stylish red fruit flavors and prickly tannins and acids. A youthful, astringent finish gives way to a lingering, cherry liqueur-like sweetness. $51
88 Dom. du Galet des Papes, 2005 Tradition
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Exotic aromas of cinnamon and clove with a suggestion of iodine. Earthy, mixed flavors of cherry, cranberry and clove with a lingering note of sweet tobacco. Spicy close with crisp acidity and fine-grain tannins. $43
91 Dom. du Galet des Papes, 2005 Vieilles Vignes
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Redwood aromas join cherry, cinnamon and cola scents. Sweet raisin and cherry flavors are at the same time tart and woodsy with rustic cedar and redwood accents. Crisp, acidic finish with sandpaper tannins. $48
88 Jean-Luc Colombo, 2005 Cairanne Rouge
Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages
Heady, ripe black cherry aromas. Peppery cherry fruit flavors laced with spicy oak. Crisp, tannic finish with youthful red fruit notes. $21
92 Jean-Luc Colombo, 2005 La Divine
Côte-Rôtie
Lovely black cherry aromas with secondary notes of vanilla and cedar. Racy red fruit flavors offer fine tannins, tobacco and mineral accents. Youthful close with tart cherry fruit and spicy oak. $71
94 Jean-Luc Colombo, 2005 La Rouet Rouge
Hermitage
Red and black fruit aromas offer a note of rhubarb. Thick, juicy cherry fruit laced with myriad wood tannins and crisp acids. Lengthy, exotic finish of coffee bean, red licorice and clove. $88
87 Jean-Luc Colombo, 2005 Les Abeilles
Côtes-du-Rhône
Fresh raspberry and cranberry aromas with a note of leather. Tangy cherry fruit flavors imbued with mixed cedar, redwood and oak aspects. Dry, youthful, well-oaked close. $12
90 Jean-Luc Colombo, 2005 Les Bartavelles
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Shy, red fruit aromas display a spicy oakiness. Dry, compact flavors of cherry and cranberry laced with fresh acidity. Rustic, woodsy finish marked by prickly tannins and spicy red fruit. $34
90 Jean-Luc Colombo, 2005 Syrah
Les Forots, Côtes-du-Rhône
Beautiful bouquet of ripe cherry and rose petals. Fresh black cherry fruit with hints of white pepper and Worcestershire sauce. Earthy finish imparts redwood and pepper accents. $21
92 Jean-Luc Colombo, 2005 Syrah
Les Lauves, Saint-Joseph
Ripe aromas of plum and black cherry with a whiff of cayenne. Dusty black cherry fruit spiked with a vibrant oakiness. Red and black fruit flavors resonate in the close with spicy wood and lingering peppery nuances. $32
93 Jean-Luc Colombo, 2005 Syrah
Terres Brulées, Cornas
Black earth aromas with a liqueur-lie accents. Rather spicy black cherry fruit with secondary tea, tobacco and charcoal flavors. Lively finish delivers chalk, graphite and spicy wood aspects along with a lingering menthol nuance. $78
92 Domaine de Villeneuve, 2005 Vieilles Vignes
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Heady bouquet of licorice, violets, cola and red meat. Sweet, grapy flavors of blackberry jam, anise and minerals. Concentrated finish showcasing black fruit flavors along with a hint of chalkiness. $61
Italy
Reds
90 Belguardo, 2004 Serrata
Maremma Toscana IGT
Polished aromas of blackberry, cedar and dried herbs. Very smooth flavors of black fruit and graphite framed by bright acidity and soft tannins. Lovely, plush finish. $22
92 Castello Banfi, 2004 Syrah
Colvecchio Vineyard, Sant' Antimo
Heady aromas of cherry and blueberry. Tasty cherry flavors with a note of spicy oak laced through a ripe, fruity core. Syrah's rough-hewn character surfaces in the lightly peppery finish of this well-crafted, fruit-driven wine. $36
91 Castello di Fonterutoli, 2001 Chianti Classico
Chianti Classico
Loamy aromas of cooked-down red fruit, tobacco and dust. Chewy, quite dry, well-balanced flavors of raspberry and pencil shavings. Palate-cleansing close shows lots of fruit. $50
92 Castello di Verrazzano, 2003 Riserva
Chianti Classico
Deep, plummy scents of black cherry and graphite show admirable Chianti class. Smooth, very fresh flavors of blackberry and earth framed by bright acidity and dusty tannins. Crisp, tart, lingering finish. $43
91 Castello di Verrazzano, 2004 Sassello
Toscana IGT
Intense, loamy scents of plum, tobacco and underbrush with a warming brown sugar note. Smooth, quite dry flavors of blackberry, pencil shavings and minerals. Long, enjoyable close echoes the wine's warmth and smoothness . $70
91 Col d'Orcia, 2004 Banditella
Rosso di Montalcino
Bordeaux-like scents of black currant, dusty earth and dried tobacco with pleasant herbal notes. Balanced flavors of cherry, vanilla and chocolate. Smooth, sweet close. $36
90 Feudi di San Gregorio, 2005 Rubrato
Campania Aglianico IGT
Intense, earthy strawberry aromas with a big dose of cedar. Zesty, focused flavors of raspberry and dust. Crisp finish. $21
92 Marchesi di Barolo, 2004 Barbaresco
Barbaresco
Elegant, deep aromas of macerated cherry, dust and tar. Balanced, structured flavors of cherry, red berries, cedar and violets impart a poised mouth-feel. Seamless finish. $43
92 Marchesi di Barolo, 2003 Barolo
Barolo
Fragrant scents of dried cherry and pomegranate seed with a note of bacon fat lending weight. Smoky flavors of blackberry, licorice and black pepper. Grill pan rounds out the close. $47
93 Marchesi di Barolo, 2003 Cannubi
Barolo
Nicely understated scents of dried cherry, tar, violets and earth. Elegant mouth-feel frames ready flavors of cherry, raspberry, cedar box and tobacco. Smooth, well-evolved finish. $72
93 Roddolo, 2001 Ravera
Barolo
Beautifully perfumed scents of stewed cherry, minerals and cedar shavings. Warm, husky flavors of mulberry, blackberry, redwood and oak spice have great palate presence. Tangy close. $100
94 San Rustico, 2000 Occhi Blu di Sabrina
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Classic bouquet of macerated dried cherry, Worcestershire sauce, walnut and bittersweet chocolate scents. Lively, just-crushed cherry, strawberry, citrus peel and mineral flavors. Intense finish coats the palate in mocha. $70
90 Tenuta Coppadoro, 2003 Cotinone
Puglia IGT
Forward, intense aromas of blackberry jam, candle wax and rose petals. Dry, muscular flavors of mulberry and cedar with some lightening mocha notes. Mocha continues through the lengthy finish. $34
Tutored Tastings
Burgundy Tour
The following wines were tasted by executive editor Todd M. Wernstrom on February 12 at davidburke & donatella restaurant in New York City as part of Frederick Wildman's Burgundy producer tour. Each wine was introduced by either the domaine's winemaker, a principal or other representative. They are listed in the order they were presented. The wines were not tasted blind.
93 Château Fuissé, 2005 Vieilles Vignes
Pouilly-Fuissé
Oily and ripe with scents of minerals and smoke; honey slowly emerges in a nose that is less about fruit than it is earthy elements. Dense, quite peppery and spicy flavors of baked apple, paraffin and butter. Very nervy for all its heft. $39
93 Domaine Christian Moreau, 2005 Les Clos
Chablis Grand Cru
Classic initial Chablis mustiness fades to very fresh aromas of lime blossom and minerals. Ripe, supple flavors of lemon and slate. Its citrus components are nicely evolved and juicy, as opposed to tart and biting. $88
92 Ch. de la Maltroye, 2004 Grandes Ruchottes
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru
Subtly smoky, minerally scents of lemon zest and fresh bread crust. Great mouth-feel frames ample flavors of orange marmalade, lemon curd, beeswax and white pepper. Spicy backbone. $104
92 Ch. Génot Boulanger, 2005 Chenevottes
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru
Bright, exuberant aromas of lemon, bee pollen and wet stone. Mouth-filling flavors of pineapple, honey and dusty stone fruit. Very lively example of the citrusy style of the appellation. $51
94 Olivier Leflaive, 2005 Truffières
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru
Pretty scents of lemon, yellow flowers and, especially, hazelnut. Soft, nutty flavors of tangerine, apricot and wood spice. Lean close demonstrates the youth of the wine. $102
93 Potel-Aviron, 2005 Cuvée Exceptionelle
Moulin-à-Vent
Jammy aromas of raspberry and red licorice. Tart, lively flavors of red berries and dusty stone. Great balance. A very serious wine for the money. $25
94 Domaine Jacques Prieur, 2005 Champans
Volnay Premier Cru
Young and shy, but the structure is obvious by the nose that includes brambly red berries and pencil shavings with floral highlights. Just as restrained in the mouth; flavors of cherry skin and cedar. A few years should allow it to show its stellar qualities fully. $130
94 Dominique Gallois, 2004 Combes-aux-Moines
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru
Incredibly dusty nose; like walking on a dirt road in mid-summer. Scents of forest floor and red fruit. Much more expressive in the mouth; flavors of cherry, raspberry and slate show formidable backbone and long-haul structure. $75
93 Armand Rousseau, 2001 Clos St.-Jacques
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru
Intense medicinal notes lighten to show scents of cherry compote and licorice. Nervy, very direct flavors of pomegranate seed and bacon fat are nonetheless delivered by way of a silky texture. $250
93 Sylvain Cathiard, 2004 Malconsorts
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru
Beautifully polished and restrained aromas of red berries and cedar box. Supple flavors of tart strawberry, wood spice and earth. Clean, bright finish. $162
94 Nicolas Potel, 2002 Romanée-Saint-Vivant
Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru
Rich, perfumed aromas of blackberry and licorice with appropriate herbal notes. Clean, peppery flavors of cherry, cedar and forest floor. Tight and dry all the way around. Needs more time. $214
95 Domaine Méo-Camuzet, 2004 Echézeaux
Echézeaux Grand Cru
Super-intense, ripe nose of cherry, earth and moist tobacco. Smooth texture makes the wine practically melt on the palate; flavors of red currant, wood spice and dried mushroom. Perfect mouth-feel. $250
Haut-Brion
The following wines were tasted by Buyline member Abraham Horowitz at a seminar led by estate manager Jean-Philippe Delmas and proprietor H.R.H. Prince Robert of Luxembourg last February at the Miami Beach Convention Center. The wines were not tasted blind.
94 Château Haut-Brion, 2003 Blanc
Pessac-Léognan
Pale gold hue with a green tint. Pungent scents of smoke, charred oak, flint and lemon cream. Oily and viscous with rich flavors of lemon, grapefruit and white peach, and secondary notes of petrol and paraffin. Peach nectar in the honeyed close. $495
92 Château Haut-Brion, 2001 Blanc
Pessac-Léognan
Light gold hue. Reserved scents of lemon, slate and hay. Exotic flavors of lemon cream and orange marmalade. Vibrant acidity livens lingering lemon notes in the close. $275
90 Château Haut-Brion, 2002
Pessac-Léognan
Dense plum hue. Aromas of plum and minerals with a hint of tar. Tart flavors of raspberry and wild cherry. Racy acidity and hearty tannins in the lingering, raspberry-driven close. $275
88 Château Haut-Brion, 2001
Pessac-Léognan
Dense ruby hue. Reserved scents of cedar and tobacco. Lean flavors of raspberry and chocolate. Velvety tannins mark powerful flavors of tobacco and wild cherry. Hints of gravel and sage in the drying close. $300
93 Château Haut-Brion, 1999
Pessac-Léognan
Deep garnet hue. Complex scents of smoke, minerals, graphite and raspberry. Velvety tannins highlight creamy flavors of raspberry and cassis. Fleshy and round with echoes of raspberry, cassis and wild cherry in the long close. $280
88 Château Haut-Brion, 1998
Pessac-Léognan
Garnet-black hue. Reserved scents of raspberry and gravel with a touch of bell pepper. Astringent tannins and juicy flavors of wild cherry and raspberry. Rainier cherry and cranberry notes in the elegant close. $580
94 Château Haut-Brion, 1996
Pessac-Léognan
Concentrated garnet hue with a brickish edge. Complex scents of tobacco, cedar and black cherry with a hint of rum cake. Velvety tannins, vibrant acidity and juicy flavors of wild cherry and raspberry. Notes of wild cherry, cassis and Earl Grey tea in the close. $450
95 Château Haut-Brion, 1995
Pessac-Léognan
Dense plum hue. Exotic scents of candied plum, black cherry and anise. Fleshy, creamy flavors of red plum, mocha and raspberry. Layers of blueberry, cassis and raspberry with secondary nuances of sweet tobacco and minerals in the silky finish. $525
91 Château Haut-Brion, 1990
Pessac-Léognan
Light ruby hue with an orange rim. Mature scents of tobacco, cedar and tea. Silky tannins and elegant flavors of orange pekoe tea. A hint of baker's chocolate carries the close. $675
96 Château Haut-Brion, 1985
Pessac-Léognan
Light garnet hue. Inviting scents of sandalwood, anise and red plum. Silky tannins and ephemeral flavors of raspberry, brown sugar and raspberry. Elegant and classy. Very long finish featuring raspberry, wild cherry and sweet tobacco. $480
Masi
The following wines were reviewed by publisher Tom E. Smith at a seminar held at Morton's the Steakhouse in Miami on February 28. The tasting was led by global marketing director Luc Desroches and helped mark the 50th anniversary of Masi Campolongo di Torre. The wines were not tasted blind.
95 Masi, 2004 Costasera
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Attractive garnet hue. Forward stewed cherry aromas with subtle flint nuances. Lush cherry flavors accented by hints of nutmeg and cinnamon. Incredible ripeness and depth of fruit resonate in the lengthy, polished finish. $60
92 Serego Alighieri, 2001 Vaio Armaron
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Feathered light garnet hue. An herbaceous bouquet brimming with ripe cherry fruit, leather and pecan aromas. Intense, macerated cherry flavors accented by mint, tea and cinnamon notes. Sweetness builds in the finish, along with a mix of red fruit and brown spice, and a hint oxidation. $75
95 Masi, 2001 Campolongo di Torbe
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Blackish hue. Heady aromas of maple syrup, nutmeg, stewed cherry and campfire. Thick and creamy with well-extracted black cherry fruit melded with fig and brown spice. Lengthy, sweet close punctuated by dusty, tart, still-youthful tannins. $130
93 Masi, 2001 Mazzano
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Deep garnet hue. Mixed bouquet of mocha, cherry, vanilla, new oak and a wisp of bacon fat. Tangy cherry pit flavors accented by baker's chocolate and a lick of minerals that carry through to a lengthy, age-worthy finish. $140
98 Masi, 1990 Campolongo di Torbe
100 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
A knock-your-socks-off wine. Brooding blackish hue with a ruby rim. Developed bouquet of rose petals, prune, plum and singed brown sugar. Stunning flavors of cooked cherry laced with brown sugar and maple accents. Thick, savory finish with mocha and caramel joining the mélange of palate flavors. Classic example of the charm, depth of fruit and staying power of aged Amarone. (Available only at select retailers and restaurants.) $250
Gala Italia
The following wines were reviewed by publisher Tom E. Smith at Gala Italia New York, jointly presented by the Italian Wine & Food Institute and the Italian Trade Commission at the Marriott Marquis Hotel in New York City on February 21. Morning and afternoon seminars, titled, respectively, "Super Tuscans"and "Great Italian Wines of the Vintage 2003," were led by individual producers. The wines were not tasted blind.
Super Tuscans
90 Ruffino, 2005 Modus
Toscana IGT
Bright purple hue. Fresh, pungent cherry fruit aromas with hints of leather and a note of charred oak. Earthy, chalky flavors of red fruit with classic sangiovese notes. Oak and clove accents linger in the crisp, youthful finish. (50% sangiovese/25% cabernet/25% merlot) $25
92 Castello di Montepo, 2005 Sassoalloro
Toscana IGT
Attractive ruby hue. Peppery cherry fruit aromas with a rustic, secondary earthiness and a hint of clove. Compact flavors of strawberry and black cherry laced with youthful acids. Aged 14 months in untoasted Tronçais oak, which imparted crisp, green tannins in the finish. (100% sangiovese grosso) $30
95 Guido Berlucchi, 2004 Caccia al Piano 1868
Levia Gravia, Bolgheri Rosso
Viscous blackish-purple hue. Minty, grapy aromas with ripe plum and campfire undertones. Juicy flavors of plum and raspberry with a jammy thickness and round, well-integrated tannins. Lengthy, purring finish refuses to wane. New World style with Old World finesse. (70% cabernet/25%merlot/5%syrah) $N/A
91 Castello Romitorio, 2004 Romito del Romitorio
Sant'Antimo Rosso
Feathered garnet hue. Dusty scents of cherry, leather and minerals with a hint of green olive. Tart cherry fruit flavors laced with flinty, mineral-like nuances. Racy, crisply styled and well-structured with a lingering sweetness in the finish. (60% sangiovese grosso/20% cabernet/20% cannaiolo) $N/A
90 Castello di Gabbiano, 2004 Alleanza
Toscana IGT
Deep garnet hue. Sweet bouquet of mocha, coffee bean, vanilla and Bing cherry. Upfront cherry bolstered by drying, fine-grain tannins.While merlot drives the fleshiness and sweetness, sangiovese adds just enough structure to temper and balance the sweetness. (95% merlot/5% sangiovese) $35
90 Castello di Querceto, 2003 Il Sole di Alessandro
Centrale Toscana IGT
Deep garnet hue. Pungent, gamy aromas accented with coffee, tea and tobacco notes. Racy red fruit flavors imbued with biting acidity and rough-hewn tannins. Traditional Old World flavors make for a perfect Bolognese companion. (100% cabernet) $80
88 Podere San Luigi, 2001 San Luigi
Toscana IGT
Garnet hue with a fuchsia rim. Fresh, uplifting cherry aromas with a whiff of black earth. Soft and easy drinking with blended flavors of juicy cherry, straw-berry and cranberry. A no-brainer, front-porch wine: Chill it and drink it. (85% sangiovese/15% cabernet) $30
86 La Fucina di Leonardo, 2001 Broncone
Toscana IGT
Blackish-garnet hue. Candied aromas of red licorice and cream soda. Accessible cherry fruit flavors with round, soft, melded tannins. Lingering, fruit-driven finish. (100% sangiovese) $190
93 Villa Cusona, 2001 Milanni
Toscana IGT
Cherry hue. Fresh cherry fruit aromas with an edge of spiciness. Vibrant flavors of cherry and raspberry fruit with a dusty mineral quality. A well-structured wine with harmonious tannins, acids and lively fruit. Sweetness builds in the finish, but concludes on a dry note. (60% sangiovese/30% cabernet/10% merlot) $N/A
Vintage 2003
While some producers noted that 2003 will be remembered as one of the poorest harvests in the last 50 years, due to the long, dry, very hot summer, the challenging weather was beneficial for many reds in that the resulting wines were well-structured and concentrated.
88 Fazi Battaglia, 2003 Gersemi
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Peppery, medicinal aromas with a defined earthiness. Racy red fruit laced with minerals and a vibrant, clove-like accent. Rustic, old-style sangiovese flavors finish with crisp acids and sandpaper tannins. $N/A
92 Fratelli Muratori, 2003 Val di Cornia Suvereto
Vigna Usillio, Toscana IGT
Youthful garnet hue. Lovely aromas of black cherry and coconut with hints of pencil shavings and chalk. Pure, stylish sangiovese flavors with an edge of pepper and drying mineral accents. Excellent length with a lingering sweetness. $N/A
94 Selvanova, 2003 Selvanova Terre dei Volturno
Toscana IGT
Intense inky hue. Heady plum and black cherry aromas spiked with graphite and flint-like accents. Layered flavors of dusty, ripe black fruit with a jolt of sturdy, age-worthy tannins. A tooth-sticking finish with plenty of muscle and fruit for the long haul. (100% aglianico) $45
93 Leone de Castris, 2003 Donna Lisa
Riserva, Salice Salentino
Black-garnet hue. Attractive bouquet of cherry and rose petals. Indigenous negroamaro and black malvasia grapes impart a rustic, rough-hewn texture, a plethora of black fruit, dusty oak notes and a lengthy, sweet finish. $N/A
92 Rocco delle Macie, 2003 Ser Gioveto
Toscana IGT
Very dark black-garnet hue. There is a lush, fruit-forward quality to this wine, beginning with the ripe plum and blueberry aromas, followed by layers of supple, black cherry fruit laced with well-integrated tannins and a dusty nuance reflective of sangiovese grosso. $45
93 Castello Romitorio, 2003 Brunello
Brunello di Montalcino
Flashy garnet hue. Bright aromas of cherry and cranberry display a subtle earthy quality. Rather crisp and to the point with tart, concentrated cherry fruit laced with dusty, nearly leathery tannins. Incredible staying power with a lingering sweetness that is laced with minerals and an earthy, bone-dry, dusty nuance. $N/A
88 Duca di Salaparuta, 2003 Duca Enrico
Sicilia IGT
Youthful garnet hue. Aromas of graphite and charcoal with an inviting floral nuance. Tart red fruit flavors display a defined calcareous influence. Tannic, nearly biting finish. $60
94 Bava, 2003 Contrabbasso
Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Rather light, feathered garnet hue. Forward aromas of sweet cherry fruit, clove and telltale floral accents. Elegant red fruit flavors with graphite accents and fine-grain tannins. Peppery finish that is at the same time sweet and lasting. $75
94 Fratelli Fabiano, 2003 Amarone
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Viscous texture with a garnet hue. Heady, fresh bouquet of black earth, black cherry, pencil and coffee bean. Silky-textured flavors of plum, ripe cherry, red licorice, fig, tea and tobacco. Displays a lingering, hedonistic sweetness. $N/A
92 Fratelli Bolla, 2003 Amarone
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Black-garnet hue. Aromas of clove and evergreen with stewed cherry undertones. Pruny brown sugar and cherry flavors with rustic, drying tannins. Sweet, lengthy finish. $N/A
94 Carlo Pasqua, 2003 Terre di Cariano
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Attractive garnet hue. Delicate aromas of red and black fruit with an earthy, mineral nuance. Intense, front-to-back sweetness with flavors of ripe cherry, plum and fig laced with dusty, balancing tannins. Lengthy, enjoyable finish that kept getting better in the glass. $N/A
West Coast Case
Contributing Editor Steve Pitcher reviewed the following current-release, limited-production Pinot Noirs in San Francisco. The wines were comparatively tasted blind.
89 Belle Glos, 2006 Pinot Noir
Clark & Telephone Vnyd, Santa Maria Valley
Slow-to-open nose of dark berries and black cherry accented by nutmeg, vanilla and a red plum high note. Rich, round and mellow with medium-full tannins and nicely extracted flavors of black cherry-strawberry fruit and subtle toasty oak. Medium-long finish. $50 / (case production not disclosed)
90 Belle Glos, 2006 Pinot Noir
Las Alturas Vnyd, Santa Lucia Highlands
Nose of strawberry preserves and subtle notes of clover and topsoil. Quite rich and silky on the palate with fine-grain tannins and loads of spicy strawberry fruit. A mocha note emerges in the extended close. $60 / (case production not disclosed)
90 Belle Glos, 2006 Pinot Noir
Taylor Lane Vineyard, Sonoma Coast
Shy, slightly smoky nose of black cherry and cassis with a hint of cranberry that picks up a nuance of crushed, toasted sesame seed. With airing, the initially angular palate broadens to become soft and mellow with medium tannins and fine acid balance, as well as complex flavors of black fruit accented by a hint of orange peel. Finishes medium-long with a note of vanilla. Best decanted for early enjoyment. $60 / (case production not disclosed)
91 Black Kite Cellars, 2006 Pinot Noir
Kite's Rest Vineyard, Anderson Valley
Intense, fragrant nose of cinnamon-clove spice, ripe, just-crushed dark berries, mocha and lavender with a hint of pomegranate juice. Super smooth and juicy with medium tannins, this is an elegant Pinot with generous flavors that replicate the nose, together with wonderfully focused acidity. The long finish takes on a framboise-like richness. $38 / 521 cases
90 Lynmar, 2005 Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley
Fragrant, perfumed nose of violets, wild strawberry and Asian spice. Ultrasmooth, silky and elegant, with fine-grain tannins and generous flavors of jammy strawberry-raspberry fruit tinged with vanilla, which expands a bit in the extended close. $36 / 3,064 cases
91 Lynmar, 2005 Pinot Noir
Quail Hill Vineyard, Russian River Valley
Lovely aromas of French toast, freshly crushed strawberry, a note of pomegranate juice and a touch of vanilla. Elegant and round with velvety fine tannins and deep flavors that echo the nose. Finishes long and silky. This Pinot gets even better with each sip. $66 / 1,459 cases
90 Robert Stemmler, 2005 Pinot Noir
Ferguson Block, Carneros
Fragrant, appealing nose of nutmeg-clove spice, very ripe strawberry and a hint of vanilla. Plush, round and juicy, the wine is brimming with moderately spicy, extracted strawberry fruit. Finishes with a flourish of vanilla custard. $44 / 700 cases
89 Robert Stemmler, 2005 Pinot Noir
Nugent Vineyard, Russian River Valley
Attractive aromas of red cherry and cranberry with a touch of green tea. Nicely extracted with a silky texture and medium tannins. An elegant and restrained Pinot that will benefit from a couple of years of cellaring. $40 / 2,200 cases
93 Sea Smoke, 2005 Pinot Noir
Botella, Sta. Rita Hills
Fresh, fruity aromas of dark berries and black cherry are intense and attractive. Rich and extracted on the palate with medium-full tannins and deep flavors of wild black raspberry and black cherry; complex and exhibiting great acid balance. Finishes long and crisp. $40 / 1,250 cases
94 Sea Smoke, 2005 Pinot Noir
Ten, Sta. Rita Hills
(Made from ten clones.) This wonderfully complex Pinot offers forward, deep aromas of ripe red fruit laced with dark plum and a hint of fresh thyme. Voluptuous and extracted on the palate with medium-full tannins and loads of strawberry-red currant fruit tinged with spice and subtle earthiness. The finish goes on and on. $70 / 1,500 cases
93 Talley, 2005 Pinot Noir
Rincon Vineyard, Arroyo Grande Valley
Forward, deeply fragrant aromas of strawberry, rose petals, cinnamon and subtle vanilla. Full bodied with medium-full tannins and a velvety texture, this bold Pinot is densely packed with ripe black cherry-strawberry fruit tinged with brown spice. Finishes long and smooth. $58 / 536 cases
93 Talley, 2005 Pinot Noir
Rosemary's Vnyd, Arroyo Grande Valley
Slow-to-open nose of fruity black cherry-strawberry scents that expands with airing. Full bodied, rich and supple on the palate with generous flavors of freshly crushed strawberry and raspberry with an undertone of blackberry tinged with oak. Long, fruit-filled close. $70 / 546 cases
About the BuyLine Panel: More than 100 wines are reviewed in every issue of Wine News. All wines are tasted double-blind and each entry is evaluated and scored based upon individual merit. Wines that score above 70 points are recommended in the BuyLine. Tasting and interpreting wine is a purely subjective exercise; all scores and accompanying tasting notes represent the collective opinions of our panel.
Wine Samples: Send samples for review with retail price affixed to:
Wine News BuyLine Tasting Panel
1501 Venera Avenue, Suite 320
Coral Gables, FL 33146
Telephone: 305.740.7170
The Panel: Lyn Farmer, senior staff columnist; Abraham Horowitz, BuyLine panelist; Tom E. Smith, publisher; John Stroker, BuyLine panelist; Fred Tasker, Miami Herald wine critic; Todd M. Wernstrom, executive editor.
Scoring: Tasting notes reflect the panel's collective impressions; scores are averaged and represent the panel's mean. Wines possessing certain criteria will be singled out for special recognition:
Taster's Choice: Wines which display outstanding quality, character and potential.
Best Value Wines of exceptional quality which sell at a moderate price.
Stemware: Riedel Ouverture tasting glasses.
Pricing: Prices vary from state to state. Retail prices listed are approximate.
