Taster's Choice:

95 Hardys, 1996 Shiraz, Eileen Hardy McLaren Vale, Australia
Opaque, inky hue coats the glass. Lush bouquet of mint, black cherry and new oak. Supple texture with layers of luxurious ripe cherry and black plum fruit perfectly integrated with combed tannins. Creamy, persistent, fruit-laden finish. $65

94 Marchese Lodovico A., 1995 Masseto Tuscany, Italy
Brilliant, black-ruby hue. Generous scents of plum, tobacco, blackberry syrup and tea. Very concentrated, juicy, ripe black fruit flavors with hints of tea and mint. A controlled, balanced wine that keeps improving and expanding in the glass. Hugely rich finish that refuses to retire. $167

94  Jim Barry, 1996 The Armagh Shiraz Clare Valley, Australia
Deep, purple-black hue. Enticing aromas of black fruit, mint and coconut. Gobs of ripe dark cherry and plum fruit with secondary flavors of mint and bitter chocolate. Powerful, fruit-driven finish. $100

Best Value:

90 J. Lohr, 1997 Syrah South Ridge, Paso Robles
Intense, black-garnet hue. Uplifting bouquet of blueberry, black cherry and fresh ground coffee. Full and juicy on the palate with flavors of cassis and ripe plum framed by youthful, oaky tannins that carry through to the finish. $14

89 Rosemount Estate, 1998 Shiraz South Eastern Australia
Brilliant, red-garnet hue. Woodsy, briary scents with coffee and mocha high notes. Plump flavors of cherry and strawberry. Crisp, lasting fruit impressions. $11

88 Beringer, 1998 Sauvignon Blanc Appellation Collection, Napa Valley
Bright, yellow-gold hue. Fresh lemon drop and peach aromas with secondary oak nuances. Full and soft on the palate with pineapple and peach flavors. A ripe, ready-to-drink wine. $12

More Scores

California

Sauvignon Blanc

86 Bernardus, 1998 Sauvignon Blanc Monterey County
Grapefruit and mineral-like scents. Rather sweet with crisp apple and wet stone flavors that linger in the finish. $14

87 Frog's Leap, 1998 Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley
Pungent lemon peel and apple scents. Sweet honeydew flavors with an herbaceous underbelly. Clean, fresh finish. $14

88 Iron Horse Vineyards, 1998 Fumé Blanc T Bar T, Alexander Valley
A disciplined, pleasing bouquet of citrus and herbs. Vibrant flavors of grapefruit, orange and vanilla. A dollop of viognier in the blend adds creaminess to the finish. $18

90 Rochioli, 1998 Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley
Fresh, grassy aromas with secondary sugary scents. Balanced and clean with flavors of bright citrus and herbs. Even finish with a cleansing, crisp lick of lemon drop. $22

85 Voss Vineyards, 1998 Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley
An overblown bouquet of herbs, grass and lemon. Juicy and sweet with pineapple and tart lemon flavors. An exceedingly sweet finish. $15

Cabernet Sauvignon

89 Atlas Peak, 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Consenso Vineyard, Atlas Peak, Napa Valley
Concentrated nose of fresh cherry, leather and coffee scents with faint resin and leather notes. Firm, spicy palate of black cherry, tea, pepper and oaky tannins. Should continue to improve with age. $30

90 Beringer, 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley
Enticing aromas of black cherry, cassis, sweet, smoky wood and faint wisps of chocolate. Poised flavors of dark fruit, walnut syrup and pepper. Youthful, tannic finish. $25

86 Markham, 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
Smoky scents of black cherry, blueberry, coffee and cedar. Sweet black cherry notes dominate on entry with a tart, cranberry-like acidity and mild, dusty tannins emerging at mid-palate. Fresh, clean finish. $22

87 Simi, 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County
Heady aromas of bright raspberry and cherry, clove, tobacco leaf and hints of sweet oak. Red fruit flavors imbued with rigid acidity. Wood impressions lend balance and spice to the finish. $22

89 Simi, 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Sonoma County
Forward bouquet of maple, nut, creamed coffee, brown sugar and sweet oak. Creamy, rich entry with Port-like intensity coupled with tobacco, prunes and sweet toffee flavors. Soft, tempered finish. $45

90 Snowden, 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
Attractive nose of mocha, mint, leather and new oak. Big, coating entry of blackberry, cassis and espresso with well-meshed tannins. Angular and youthful in the finish. A promising wine that should age gracefully. $45

Merlot

87 Chateau Souverain, 1997 Merlot Alexander Valley
A shy bouquet emitting light scents of new oak, violets, chocolate and coffee. Flavors of black plum and coffee with assertive, dusty tannins. Drying, tightly wound finish. $17

86 Frog's Leap, 1997 Merlot Napa Valley
Expressive aromas of black fruit, new leather and oak. Slow-to-open flavors of cherry, plum and coffee. Drying, woody tannins temper the ripe fruit in the finish. $27

88 Lambert Bridge, 1996 Merlot Sonoma County
Vibrant, clean scents of raspberry, leather, tobacco and tea. Spicy palate of rose hips, strawberry and creamy, vanillin oak. Crisp finish driven by the spicy red fruit flavors. $20

88 Markham, 1996 Merlot Reserve, Napa Valley
Oak-dominated aromas with secondary scents of berry liqueur, black plum and coffee. Balanced flavors of sweet cherry and plum imbued with gently combed tannins. Excellent length with hints of anise in the close. $35

86 Pellegrini Family Vineyards, 1997 Merlot Cloverdale Ranch, Alexander Valley
Light aromas of plum and blackberry with pungent earth highlights. Medium-bodied with smooth black cherry and cedar flavors. Soft and approachable. $16

86 Sterling Vineyards, 1997 Merlot Napa Valley
Nose of black plum, pepper and vanilla with a wisp of leather. Tangy plum fruit with bright acids and spicy wood tones. Earthy, tannic finish. $20

Syrah

92 Babcock Vineyards, 1997 Syrah Black Label Cuvée, Santa Barbara Valley
Deep, brooding hue; purple to the rim. Smoky oak scents with a whiff of bacon fat. Round and full, packed with cherry fruit and fine-grain tannins. Supple, lengthy finish. $40

88 Benziger Family Winery, 1996 Syrah Central Coast
Earthy scents with red fruit highlights. Strawberry fruit flavors meld with crisp acids and a note of bitter chocolate. Good length, although a touch angular right now. $18

86 Beaulieu Vineyard, 1996 Syrah North Coast
Briary, earthy scents with a note of leather. Drying and tannic with cranberry and coffee flavors. Youthful, rigid finish. $25

88 Buffalo Ridge, 1997 Syrah French Camp Vineyard, Central Coast
Perfumed nose of cherry, vanilla and coffee. A big-shouldered, viscous wine with rough-hewn tannins, but plenty of peppery black fruit holding down the fort. Lasting, intense finish. Needs time to soften up. $18

France

Whites

88 Albert Pic, 1997 Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles, Chablis
Lemon drop scents coupled with a wet stone nuance. Silky and light with fresh citrus notes on the palate. A wisp of sweetness in the finish tempers the youthful acids. $54

86 Albert Pic, 1997 Chablis Premier Cru Montmains, Chablis
Flinty, mineral-like aromas with a wisp of lemon. Rather tart with a nervy edge of acidity. Fresh lemon and steely grapefruit flavors. Bright, crisp finish. $33

88 Albert Pic, 1997 Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons, Chablis
Lemon grass and white peach aromas. Subtle citrus flavors that are a touch fuller on the palate than the Montmains. Crisp, steely acids punctuate the finish. $33

88 Château Margaux, 1997 Pavillon Blanc Bordeaux
Slow-evolving bouquet that opens with a pungent earthiness and evolves to honey and cream scents with a wisp of lemon zest. Thick on the palate with highly stylized mineral, banana and lemon flavors coupled with a defined oakiness. A controversial wine with our panel. $51

Red Bordeaux

85 Château Bel Air, 1996 Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc
New oak aromas with cherry and powdered chocolate highlights. Flavors of cranberry and strawberry with a defined earthy influence. Cedar and clove-like nuances in the finish. $14

83 Château Coufran, 1996 Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc
Grapy nose reveals slightly cooked fruit scents of cherry and prune with slight alcohol impressions. Firm raspberry fruit and drying woody tannins. Imparts youthful, tannic impressions. $30

86 Château Greysac, 1996 Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois, Médoc
Fresh cherry scents with a smoky nuance adding appeal. Tart cherry fruit with crisp acidity that lends a slight astringency to the overall flavor. Lively and somewhat youthful. $15

86 Château La Cardonne, 1996 Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois, Médoc
Fresh, clean aromas of cherry, mint and new oak. Supple fruit, although still tart and acidic. Good length with a note of mocha in the finish. $15

90 Château Larose-Trintaudon, 1996 Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc
A sumptuous bouquet of black cherry, shredded coconut and an edge of clove. Layers of black cherry fruit laced with thick, nicely meshed tannins. Balanced and harmonious. $15

88 Château Malescot St. Exupéry, 1996 Bordeaux Grand Cru, Margaux
An attractive bouquet of oak, mocha, black cherry and currants. Ripe black cherry and plum flavors framed by cedary tannins. Promising, well-oaked finish. $60

83 Château Plagnac, 1996 Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois, Médoc
Advanced reddish hue with slight browning at the edge. Oak aromas with mint accents. Bitter chocolate, cranberry and coffee flavors. Lean, astringent finish. $14

88 Château Puy-Blanquet, 1996 Red Bordeaux St.-Émilion Grand Cru
A charming bouquet of violets, mocha, fresh oak and a hint of brown sugar. Raspberry and strawberry flavors with hints of tea and earth. A touch biting in the finish but still rather generous. $18

Italy

Brunello

92 Castello Banfi, 1993 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Poggio All'Oro, Montalcino
Vibrantly dark, purple-garnet hue. Soft bouquet with sweet scents of cherry, mocha, black currants and leather. Rustic influences with ripe plum, dried cherry and strong tea flavors. A firm, tannic close with citrus and leather accents. $100

87 Frescobaldi Castel Giocondo, 1994 Brunello Montalcino
An extracted bouquet emitting aromas of wild plum, pecan, tea, leather and subtle hints of chocolate. Pure flavors of dried cherry, leather, cocoa powder and tart red fruit. Youthful, astringent finish. $53

87 Il Poggione, 1994 Brunello di Montalcino Montalcino
Crushed berry aromas with secondary scents of brown sugar, citrus peel and cedar. Assertive, tart cherry flavors with a suggestion of black tea. Youthful acids kick up in a lively, crisp finish. $51

90 Il Poggione, 1993 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Montalcino
Reddish-brown hue. Scents of sweet, dried cherry, leather and tea leaf with a whiff of chocolate. Soft entry with cherry, earth and cranberry flavors laced with tobacco-spiced tannins that power the finish. $67

Other Reds

85 Castello D'Albola, 1995 Acciaiolo Tuscany
Heavily charred oak nose with secondary earth, dried cherry and coffee scents. Stewed fruit flavors in the mouth with rustic tannins. Earthy, chocolate flavors punctuate the finish. $40

90 Castello Banfi, 1995 Excelsus Montalcino
Generous, complex aromas of mocha, black cherry, wild plum and mint. A full-throttle wine with black cherry, espresso and a full plate of grainy tannins. A firm, acidic finish with youthful astringency. $50

88 Lungarotti, 1990 Rubesco Vigna Monticchio Torgiano Rosso Riserva
Pungent scents of wild mushroom with secondary notes of brown sugar, mocha and vanilla. Soft strawberry and cranberry fruit imbued with cured tannins and a zip of citrusy acids. Lengthy finish. $35

92 Lungarotti, 1990 San Giorgio Rosso Dell' Umbria
Medium garnet hue; holding very well. Tarry, jammy scents with undertones of mint and leather. Ripe, syrupy texture with cherry and black plum flavors. A beautifully integrated and aged blend of cabernet, sangiovese and canaiolo perfectly suited for red meats or aged cheese. $49

92 Marchese Lodovico A., 1996 Ornellaia Bolgheri
An attractive, blue-purple hue. Lush, hedonistic aromas of mature black fruit, violets, cedar and vanilla. Generous flavors of blackberry, black currant and oak with woodsy, mushroom-like underpinnings. A long, spicy, powerful finish. $74

88 Mastroberardino, 1994 Taurasi Radici, Taurasi
Heady, alcoholic bouquet emitting strawberry, mint and methylate. Flavors of dried cherry, tea leaf and chocolate, edged with razor-sharp acidity. A long, dusty, tart finish with spicy red fruit afterthoughts. $43

89 Tenuta Dell'Ornellaia, 1997 Le Volte Tuscany
Uplifting scents of leather, cherry, dried plum and caramel. Well-knit and fine-tuned flavors of cherry, coffee and pecans imbued with crisp acidity. A defined freshness and purity of fruit make for a lengthy, enjoyable finish. $20

91 Tenuta San Guido, 1996 Sassicaia Bolgheri Sassicaia
Dark, brooding black cherry hue. Leather and toasted oak mark the smoky nose with secondary scents of red berry and mint. Creamy mouth-feel with ripe, silky cabernet highlights. Great intensity of fruit powered by rough-hewn tannins. A big wine that will continue to improve. $111

Australia

Whites

87 Carramar, 1998 Chardonnay South Eastern Australia
Simple but pleasant aromas of vanillin oak, faint honey and apple. Balanced, very steady flavors of peach, apple and honey with a steely nuance and smoky notes. A lick of butterscotch in the finish. $10

85 Greg Norman Estate, 1998 Chardonnay Yarra Valley
Heavily oaked aromas of smoke, tropical fruit, lemon and a faint vegetal note. Unpretentious flavors of peach, lemon and minerals. Bright, sweet finish with a lingering oakiness. $15

88 Penfolds, 1997 Chardonnay Adelaide Hills
Creamy nose with notes of oak and orange peel. Agreeably zippy in the mouth, showing grapefruit and pineapple impressions. Clean, crisp finish with an enduring sweetness. $27

86 Penfolds, 1998 Chardonnay Koonunga Hills, South Eastern Australia
Modest scents of grapefruit and peach. A simple, friendly quaff with soft vanilla, bright peach and pineapple flavors. Spearmint impressions mark the light close. $10

89 Penfolds, 1997 Sémillon Adelaide Hills
Aromas of vanillin oak and citrus. Rich in the mouth, weighing in with thick pineapple and ripe apple fruit. Nice infusion of smoky oak lingers in the finish. $27

84 Penfolds, 1998 Sémillon-Chardonnay Koonunga Hills, South Eastern Australia
Light scents of tangerine with an edge of grassiness. Ripe flavors of pineapple and apple tempered by oak and citrus peel. Lean, acidic finish. $8

87 Rymill, 1996 Chardonnay Coonawarra, Australia
Pleasant nose of banana, butter, oak and pecan. Forward, tropical fruit flavors with secondary notes of new oak and honeydew. A round, soft close. $14

85 Sandalford, 1997 Chardonnay Mount Baker/Margaret River
Aromas of toasted grains, oak and apricot. Supple and ripe in the mouth with sweet flavors of orange, peach nectar and honey. Soft, round finish. $17

Cabernet & Blends

90 Black Opal, 1996 Cabernet-Merlot Barossa
Uplifting, oaky aromas of cherry and roasted coffee. Supple texture and ripe, oak-infused black cherry fruit flavors. Lasting finish imparting a mix of coffee, plum and oak. An enjoyable, ready-to-drink wine. $16

87 Black Opal, 1998 Cabernet-Merlot South Eastern Australia
Fresh, upfront aromas of cherry liqueur and oak. Flavors evocative of cherry cobbler with an edge of cassis. Sweet, lasting fruit impressions. $11

85 Black Opal, 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon South Eastern Australia
Spicy menthol scents with notes of leather and oak. Cranberry and strawberry fruit with a rigid edge of acidity. Tangy, sweet finish. $11

86 Callara Estate, 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Bin, South Eastern Australia
A mixed bouquet of blueberry, cherry, tea and tobacco. Bright red fruit flavors with an oaky-smoky nuance running through the flavors. Crisp, acidic finish. $7

83 Cockatoo Ridge, 1997 Cabernet-Merlot South Eastern Australia
Light aromas of oak, rose petal and leather. Stewed red fruit flavors with dusty tannins. A straight-forward, user-friendly wine. $10

87 Greg Norman Estate, 1996 Cabernet-Merlot Coonawarra
A fresh, well-oaked nose with mixed aromas of roasted coffee, black cherry, biscuit and mint. Rather angular strawberry and cranberry fruit flavors with a hint of coffee. Tart, tannic finish. Needs to soften up. $15

88 Hermitage Road, 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Hunter Valley
Bright cherry scents with an uplifting whiff of mint. A very juicy wine with ripe plum and black cherry flavors. Excellent length. $15

87 Lindemans, 1996 Cabernet-Merlot Padthaway
An inviting bouquet of cherry, oak and a note of maple syrup. Plenty of concentrated fruit, but rather tart and tannic right now, imparting youthful astringency in the finish. $15

89 Mitchelton, 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Victoria
Ripe, lush aromas of lavender, eucalyptus and plum. Jammy fruit flavors with obvious oak impressions. Dry and rather tannic finish. $20

88 Rosemount Estate, 1996 Traditional McLaren Vale, Cabernet / Merlot / Petit Verdot
Aromas of toasted oak and mocha. Juicy, ripe plum flavors accented with sweet tobacco and tea. Soft, lingering finish. $20

84 Rymill, 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra
Round, dark fruit aromas of blueberry, cherry and plum. Ripe, black cherry flavors with toasted oak elements and powerful, astringent tannins. Drying, woody finish. $17

86 Yalumba, 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon The Menzies Vineyard, Coonawarra
Earthy aromas with secondary oak and menthol accents. Racy, acidic, red fruit flavors with drying wood tannins. Good length with hints of chocolate and mint. $29

Merlot

84 Lindemans, 1996 Merlot Reserve, South Eastern Australia
Overt mint aromas with undertones of ripe cherry, vanilla and prunes. Cherry, prune and strong vanillin oak combine with nutty sherry influences in the mouth. Chalky, drying finish. $15

Shiraz

86 Alice White, 1998 Shiraz South Eastern Australia
Scents of smoky oak, raspberry, blueberry and pine needles. Nicely balanced berry fruit notes and subtle vanilla underpinnings. Lasting cherry flavors in the close. $8

93 Barossa Valley Estates, 1996 Shiraz E & E Black Pepper, Barossa Valley
Dense hue; inky-black to the edge. Forward aromas of oak, vanilla, caramel and an uplifting scent of peppermint. Silky texture with juicy black plum and mint flavors wrapped in a tannic robe. Lasting fruit impressions with a signature accent of black pepper. $60

85 Black Opal, 1997 Shiraz South Eastern Australia
Fresh aromas of oak, raspberry and a hint of orange peel. Racy strawberry fruit imbued with rough-hewn tannins. Tart, acidic finish. $11

87 Black Opal, 1996 Shiraz Barossa
A heady bouquet of espresso and blueberry. Youthful and thick on the palate with plenty of black cherry fruit riveted with youthful tannins. Lengthy, promising finish. $16

85 Callara Estate, 1998 Shiraz Reserve Bin, South Eastern Australia
Grapy scents of spiced oak and black cherry. Sweet plum and cedar notes mark the palate. Clove spice and dried cherry notes drive the finish. $9

88 Cape Mentelle, 1996 Shiraz Margaret River
Big bouquet of mint, oak, tar and a note of coffee. Exotic flavors of Oriental spices with stewed cherry and mint. Youthful, tannic finish packed with fruit. $23

86 Carramar Estate, 1998 Shiraz South Eastern Australia
Woodsy, earthy aromas with black licorice and cherry highlights. Fresh, upfront cherry and plum flavors with a clean, crisp, easy drinking finish. $10

92 Chateau Reynella, 1996 Shiraz Basket Pressed, McLaren Vale, Australia
Gorgeous, ebony hue. Heady aromas of peppermint, cedar and plum. Thick and concentrated with loads of ripe black cherry fruit laced with a vibrant mintiness. Lengthy, drying finish with a kiss of mocha. $24

87 Hermitage Road, 1998 Shiraz South Australia
Complex scents of stewed cherry, wild plum, pencil lead and new oak. Enters with a soft, fleshy texture and opens to spicy cherry flavors, resin notes, black pepper and a wave of woody tannins. Juicy berry and pepper notes linger. $9

91 Hermitage Road, 1998 Shiraz Reserve, Limestone Coast
Intense, pitch-black hue. Perfumed aromas of black cherry, plum and vanilla frosting. Full-bodied and youthful, emitting cherry and black licorice flavors. Tannic, concentrated finish. $15

88 Lindemans, 1996 Shiraz Padthaway
A mixed bouquet of ripe plum, cherry and baker's chocolate. Loads of black cherry fruit with ripe tannins and crisp acids coursing across the palate. Lengthy, oak-infused finish. $15

83 Milburn Park, 1998 Shiraz South Eastern Australia
Reticent scents of plum, stewed black fruit and cedar sawdust. Palate shows youthful rawness with light cranberry and strawberry impressions imparting a bitterness in the finish. $10

87 Mitchelton, 1996 Shiraz Goulburn Valley
Scents of black plum and mint. Clean and well balanced with straightforward strawberry and raspberry flavors. Lingering finish. $17

91 Mitchelton, 1995 Print Shiraz Victoria
Opaque black center, feathering to the edge. Fresh aromas of cherry, mint and new oak. Racy style with tart strawberry and cherry flavors laced with woody tannins. Generous length. $45

84 Preece, 1997 Shiraz Victoria
Heavily oaked bouquet with fresh red berry notes. Tart entry with crisp acids and rustic tannins. Somewhat drying fruit flavors impart a bitterness in the finish. $14

92 Rosemount Estate, 1996 Balmoral Syrah McLaren Vale
Inky hue; brooding and dense. Lush nose of blueberry, chocolate-covered cherry and a whiff of iodine. Opulent flavors of cooked cherry and black plum held gracefully together with combed tannins. Ripe, juicy finish. $40

92 Rymill, 1996 Shiraz Coonawarra, Australia
Regal, concentrated aromas of coffee, clove, mint, ripe black cherry and brown sugar. Extravagant entry with jammy blackberry, assertive clove, chocolate and a hearty backing of oaky tannins. Subtle hints of spice in the long, sweet close. $17

83 Yalumba, 1998 Shiraz Limited Release Oxford Landing, South Australia
Fresh scents of cherry, strawberry and mocha. Woody notes mark the red fruit flavors with an astringent, bitter edge. Tart, tannic finish. $10

93 Yalumba, 1994 Octavius Old Vine Shiraz, Barossa
Shiny, nearly black hue. Uplifting aromas of chocolate, fresh blueberry and an edge of mint. Oak-infused cherry flavors with notes of tobacco and milk chocolate. Opulent, lengthy finish. $60

Red Blends

86 Antipodean, 1997 Mourvèdre/Grenache/ Shiraz/Viognier, South Australia
Strawberry and cherry scents with a hint of evergreen. Juicy cherry, juniper berry and sweet oak. A tart finish with black pepper highlights. $16

82 Banrock Station, 1999 Shiraz Cabernet South Eastern Australia
Stewed cherry scents mark the bouquet with allowances of cedar. Cherry fruit and raw tannins lend an overall astringent palate impression. Drying finish. $6

86 Cockatoo Ridge, 1997 Grenache & Shiraz South Eastern Australia
Scents of tea, plum, cranberry and clove. A juicy opening with cherry, light cranberry and anise flavors. Sweet, although tannic finish. $10

84 Penfolds, 1995 Shiraz/Mourvèdre/Grenache Old Vine, South Australia
Straightforward nose showing cedar, clove and vanilla. Rugged cherry and plum flavors with strong redwood leanings. Palate maintains a vexing tartness with strong, spiced tannins threaded throughout. $16

84 Penfolds, 1994 St. Henri Shiraz & Cabernet, South Australia
Aromas of cedar, buttered nuts and dried cherry. Tart, red fruit flavors with biting tannins. Somewhat tight and austere. Needs time to soften. $21

90 Rosemount Estate, 1996 GSM McLaren Vale
Exuberant nose of new oak, black fruit, maple syrup and spearmint. Persistent black cherry flavors with smoky oak nuances. Lengthy, spicy finish. $22

87 Yalumba, 1994 The Signature Cabernet/Shiraz, Barossa Valley
Butter-infused nose with earth, clove, pepper and vanillin notes. Soft entry with flavors of blueberry, butternut and cherry. Well-oaked, drying finish. $40

New Zealand

Whites

85 Allan Scott, 1998 Sauvignon Marlborough, New Zealand
Apple and peach aromas combine with petrol scents. Bursting, youthful flavors of pineapple and peach. Sweet citrus persists through the close. $17

86 Allan Scott, 1998 Chardonnay Marlborough, New Zealand
Honeyed, ripe fruit aromas of banana and peach with wisps of wet stone. Crisp in the mouth with immediate flavors of lemon and white peach. Drying, mineral-kissed finish. $20